thank you I’ll get on this tomorrow and let you know how it goes

 

I am sure they meant to post both ICM setups. Slip of the keyboard!

 

Sorry use to looking up my 95, but both show how to test, ICM, and PIP

 

I can’t tell you the voltage of the pip but it tested good with the led. Any other suggestions?

 

Did you test your ICM, according to test procedure, if PIP test was good, then ICM is bad, see below

1. Place the ignition switch key in the OFF position.
   
2. 2With a suitable tool pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the ignition control module connector.
   
3. 3Connect the black wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire.
   
4. 4Connect the red wire of the LED to the battery positive (+) terminal.
   
5. 5Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED.
   
6. 6The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked.
   

Let's take a look at your test results:

CASE 1: The LED blinked ON and OFF as your helper cranked the engine. This is the correct test result and it lets you know that that the ICM is receiving a PIP sensor signal.

With this test result you can conclude that the ignition control module (ICM) is bad (defective) and needs to be replaced if you have confirmed that:

1. The ICM is getting power in the form of 10 to 12 Volts DC (TEST 1).
2. The ICM is getting Ground (TEST 2).
3. The ICM is not activating the ignition coil (TEST 3).
4. The ICM is receiving a PIP sensor signal (this test section).

CASE 2: The LED DID NOT blink ON and OFF as your helper cranked the engine. If you have no pulses, recheck all connections and repeat the test.

If you still have no light pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) sensor is bad and the cause of this no-start condition.

You'll need to replace the PIP sensor to solve the no-start no-spark condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle.

As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) sensor is just a crankshaft position sensor located inside the distributor.

The PIP sensor tells the ignition control module (ICM) when to start activating the ignition coil to start sparking away. So, if the PIP signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the ignition control module will not function.

.

 

Since the engine will run on starter fluid that does imply the PIP signal is good enough for the ICM to fire. Now you need to see if that same PIP signal is getting to the computer to trigger the injectors to turn on. As I previously stated rodents are notorious for chewing wires on long term stationary vehicles. It is a good sign power is getting there. But you already found the computer is not applying a ground to pulse them on. Could be an open circuit from the computer, a bad computer (very common these days), or the PIP is not getting to the computer. Choose which path you want to start at. PIP to the computer or trace and verify the wiring from the injectors to the computer.

Given the increasing frequency of failed computers these days I suggest you pull out the computer then inspect for signs of leaking a leaking capacitor(s) and signs of burned components. Also look for signs of water intrusion.

 

I assumed the computer was bad from the start and order and replaced for it with a new one from Napa. Of course that didn’t fix the issue and kept replacing parts. I did used the numbers on it to assure I order the right one. On visual inspection I’m not seeing any mouse or other rodent damage. For now I’ll just chase wires and see if I can find anything.

 

So, this truck has been off the road for nearly 10 years? My guess you have seized injectors as the other member thinks. My 92 sat for around 15 years, injectors junk. Picked up a set of remans for about $80 shipped. Runs great now.

Unplug No 1, pop in a solenoid tester you can rent from an auto store or buy for about $25. You can also try to pulse it with 12V easy enough to see if the solenoid is free.

 

6 years and everything you have suggested has been done. Please read the thread above to catch up.

 

I missed that, sorry. Unfortunately "new" does not mean good. So assuming the computer is good you need to verify the PIP signal is getting to the computer. If that is good you need to see if the ground that is applied to each set of injectors is getting to the injectors. A good DVM and a test lamp will make these tasks much easier.

 

I figured there was more combined time sitting when Mr Diknose refused to give it to you, happened to a pal of mine when his grandfather died. Inherit date was not when he was able to acquire it due to his wife.

Missed your post about the lack of pulse.

If you want to pull the TFI module, some Autozone and Orly still can test bench test a TFI module. Call before pulling it, most do not know how or have the tools anymore. You may want to anyway to verify it has the white grease on it for heat dissipation.

I am going with the ECU as the probable cause, should be easy to warranty it out if NAPA included one on it for you. I would let you bum my '92 to test if were in the area as it is known good...but it has external TFI if makes a difference.

 

does the OP have the right TFI module since the different modules had different wiring but the same connector, i believe it could short something from the pcm or maybe the pcm shorts it. and the wiring connector has to be repinned I believe to change between
push start and.. solid state? i dont remember the differences

 

Yeah! And to barrow a well respected member(sandymane) here's saying, "that man would have went to the Hospital in a sponge!"

 

It was hidden in the back of their lot on purpose, ended up having a deputy sheriff come out. Total ****show.

My '92 4.9 runs and such fine with the grey TFI, going to assume the '91 specifies the same early grey unit (88 has it but Bent 8, so may not apply)...but with all the known DOA PIPs and TFIs floating around, the color of it may be irrelevant at this point sadly.

I will be back in 30-45 days, you can mail me that ECU and I can test it if you want in my '92 if it will work.