I have a 1990 F-250 4X4 XLT Lariat with the 351W, manual transmission. I've seen many posts on this subject, lots of opinions, lots of options. My truck is bone stock at the moment. I'm looking into performance mods and realized that any major changes I start making will need tweaking from the ECU. My main goal with this build is to make lots of torque and hp lets say around 400 each. I'm really just looking to rip this thing around on the road since it is my daily driver, and I never tow anything.
Here are my options as I've researched so far.
Carbureted - no, thank you haha- i would like to stay efi if possible a conversion can become expensive
Standalone ECU's - I've heard about these just recently i dont know if they are truly standalone or a piggyback, or if they have custom tuneability
TBI- The holley sniper system offers a fuel injection system thats rather tempting, Allowing me to custom tune, but then im switching from a multiport Fule injec. to a throttle body injec. system
These last two I'm not sure how they will be incorporated into the above options but that seems to be a bridge i cross after i figure out what platform i decide to run
Speed Density- what my truck currently has. I have seen programmers that re-flash or add more range to this system
MAF- arguably a better more versatile system, kits are $$$
I can't really make a clear decision on any of these systems without thinking I screwed up by making the wrong choice and wasting money. I am also going to be upgrading this truck progressively, so every few months I'll put something new on it, making more power as i go, the ECU system I choose either needs to adapt to these changes(self-tuning) or allow me to make custom changes (custom-tuning). I'm fine with either, custom sounds better tho.
After this is figured out then I'll start looking into Heads, Cam, Intake, ETC. aka all the fun stuff.

 

Stinger Performance has their PimpX system that can do what you are asking. One of the best options on the table right now IMHO.

 

Put some 340lph pumps in the tanks and get a Kirkey adjustable fuel regulator then beef up the ignition system and put new sparkplugs with wider gaps and a 170 amp alternator conversion and pull the VSS sensor wire on the rearend to start..Then you need to get rid of the clutchfan too and go electric......Just them mods will net noticeable differences hands down......Once you put the new timing chain and thrust plate you can install an Accel perf TFI module #35369.......People say they dont work.....For me they definately do............

I did these mods 15yrs back on my 351w w/300k less the alt conversion which was recently done in my 408 refurb and the mods increased fuel mileage also torque and hp and alot more when Kenne Bell improved on its tune to be alot more compatible...I also ported my intake ,plenum and throttlebody to deliver more flow and accept a twin 61mm throttlebody which I tried it out on from my 408 build but I tried it in the blow-by era and end of days so it made a small difference.......LOL.










As you can see that Accel TFI module has been in there a long time when this pic was snapped.t lasted over 250,000 more miles....That distributor was brand new looking too...................LOL




Then rip off the intake and get a louis tool and elongate the pushrod holes and get some Comp Cams 1.7 ratio pedestal mount rockers with 8.150" pushrods and install them......For the valvecovers I glued together 3 gaskets and installed them on each side...The extra height helped make the clearance needed for the pushrod side of the rockers.....

Put an aluminum shim over the EGR port going into the intake and leave the rest intact.

Put a new timing chain with thrustplate and new waterpump too and install new gaskets on the intake.....

 

So, if you really want that kind of output I think the offerings from Stinger Performance is your best bet. They seem expensive, but they work largely with the existing EFI harness and components which greatly reduces cost and complexity.

It is a pig in the poke for as far as long term support is concerned for pretty much all your options.

I bring it up mostly because you have a manual transmission, but if you are willing to scale back your objectives you can still find or make your own Ford MAF conversion fairly simply, but you will be limited to 19lb injectors. You would be dealing with obsolete parts, but they are fairly plentiful, and well documented for support.

 

Nice rig! Thank you for your suggestions, however I think I've made up my mind to go with the stingers Pimp system. A standalone might be a nice touch, giving me the ability to completely remove the smog/emissions equipment.

 

Same thing happens with the PimpX system.

 

The PimpX is probably your best and simplest option. I have 3 of them. Not a piggyback solution, it is a direct ECU replacement using Megasquirt 3, that is user tuneable using Tuner Studio software. There are a ton of forums and videos online explaining how to use the software. Matt Happel, of Sloppy Mechanics fame, has 2 videos on youtube that are almost a lecture style that are very helpful for understanding the system. The advantage here is that you can do all your own tuning and not have to take it to someone else to make minor tweaks if you make any parts changes. It is directly plug and play to your wiring harness, the only thing you'll have to add is a wideband O2 sensor and gauge. I suggest AEM for this.

 

Here's my PimpX install thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...x-install.html

As GNR22 said it's a direct ECU replacment using a Megasquirt 3 ECU that you can hook your laptop up to and tune.
For a Batch Fired/Manual Transmission setup I didn't have to move any wires on my stock wiring harness. I did add one wire to the ECU wiring control my electric fan, but that's not necessary...just something I chose to do. I did have to add wiring for the Wideband O2 sensor, but I wired it so that it plugs into the stock wiring where the old narrow band O2 used to plug in. (The startup guide shows how to do that.)

That thread also includes a couple of youtube videos, from a fox body guy named BREW2L, that show you how to get started with Megasquirt. I found them very helpful, and they made the whole learning-curve a little less intimidating for me.

I've been running mine for nearly a year now in my daily driver, and I've been very pleased with it.

 

thank you! I’ll be sure to follow your advice, believe it or not I like wiring haha… plug n play is nice, and it only need to throw in a wideband that’s not a prob. I’ve done it before. I’ll be sure to watch those lectures on tuning to brush up and learn somthing new, shouldn’t be too bad since I’m still in college I’m used to getting lectured !

 

If you enjoy doing wiring you could go the microsquirt route. I put on in my truck using a an old Rotunda ECM breakout cable and wired that into the microsquirt. They are $300ish new and I bought a used one for $200. The cable I bought off of ebay for $20. I used the breakout cable so that I wouldn't have to cut the trucks wiring harness other than to install the GM map sensor. I'm pretty happy with my microsquirt, i was able to solve a lot of the drivability issues i was having with the factory ECM plus I enjoy learning and having the ability to change the tune on my truck. The only downside to this is that you don't get a base tune to start from which I think Stinger provides if you buy the Pimpx. So I had to build the tune myself for my truck. It was a little bit of a learning curve but definitely worth it in the end.

 

Check out the info in this link...Its lengthy but it covers everything and anything you want to know about how the EEC and every component on the EFI engine from how they all mesh and work together aswell as their purposes to tweaking the EEC and turning the 351w into a true performance engine also do it the right way and get real seat of the pants results...

Youll be extra interested in pages 57-59..........Once you understand how things work along with noise frequencies generated aswell as flyback voltages from the starter system and how proper grounds control then also describes what proper grounding methods are....

I guarantee if you take the time to reduce rf and increase ground capacity you'll feel an instant difference in everything with proper power and grounding techniques outlined in the chapter........

I used copper welding wire and to control r/f further I use whats called ferrite choke beads.. I put one on the TPS plug wires,CTS plug wires AIT sensor wires,TFI harness wires plus on the trigger wire on,each injector also all the battery cables plus alternator wires positive and negative too ...I think I put 2 complete sets in my truck and works wonders

Take care...

http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/pdf/ford_eectch98.pdf

 

It barely scrapes the surface, and is useful reference for sure.

What you want are these three(3) documents:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M5k...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pN5...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16Mm...ew?usp=sharing

As well as the Pocket Reference:
EEC-IV Pocket Reference

And for Speed Density E4OD, people read the Fords Strategy LHBH1, its only 1,265 pages:
https://eectuning.org/forums/download/file.php?id=3671

 

I personally would find a mass air 351 and scavenge all you need, then add a quarterhorse.

 

Crank HP/TQ or RW HP/TQ, and how much are you looking to spend???