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Did you ever verify that the spark plug wires are radio suppression types? Can you post a picture of them or link to the vendor's website?
Hi Ross, I asked about the spark plug wires that I purchased and that are on there. And they said that 6 v wires aren't or can't be of this type? They are the standard reproduction type OEM repops for the 52 V8 stamped FoMoCo. Thanks!
here is a picture from last year after I got the new wires installed. However the problem with the radio happened or started before the wires got installed.
Isolate the radio and run straight off the battery, in situ.
Ignition switches can have internal intermittence. Perhaps the "accessory" contact is intermittent, and the "ignition" contacts fine, so the problem is manifested only in the radio. Put a digital voltmeter on the accessory terminal and see if the power is dirty, with the car running.
My Aurora conversion came with a wiring harness that included the wires coming out of the radio terminating at a "Molex" connector (a white plastic interconnect with a matrix of terminals), and the mating connector with wires that could be permanently connected to the cars speakers and power. Separate this connector and make sure both the male and female side pins are fully seated, aligned and not bent. Sometimes they get loose, and push out when mated, making a bad or non-connection.
Hi Ross, I asked about the spark plug wires that I purchased and that are on there. And they said that 6 v wires aren't or can't be of this type? They are the standard reproduction type OEM repops for the 52 V8 stamped FoMoCo. Thanks!
I don't understand that statement. 25,000 volts is 25,000 volts, whether generated from 6v or 12v. I don't doubt that the ignition system is causing your problems.
I don't understand that statement. 25,000 volts is 25,000 volts, whether generated from 6v or 12v. I don't doubt that the ignition system is causing your problems.
i don’t know? Yes it does seem very likely that the ignition is causing this but what part of it? Which components of it and are in it that could cause some kind of trouble? We’ve replaced the voltage regulator and the generator. The generator is the only thing that was touched while in the body shop. New spark plugs wires, a coil were added a few weeks later after the problem appeared. I thought a new generator was going to solve the issue. When he disconnected the wire to the regulator it didn’t skip. So that would tell us that it’s something in line behind the regulator?
I think it would go right on the BAT terminal of the regulator.
Wow Thanks Ross!! Ive been asking people about these for months! No-one has been able to point me in the direction of one and I was never sure which one to get. Which one can I or should I use on the ignition coil and generator?
Actually I bought 3 of them just now cause I see the illustration shows them being used on all three ignition components. I hope this works!
The "suppressor lead" is probably the equivalent of modern radio suppression spark plug wire, as Ross mentions above. Any mechanic will have a short length of modern ignition wire in his shop, or a short coil lead you could just try in the coil to Distributor lead. Worth a try and easy to do.
BTW, the "overhand loop" is a way to take parallelism out of the line - simply put, long straight runs of ignition wire transmit more interference.
This is a pesky issue I am watching closely. I have a stock '53-'55 radio being updated with a full Aurora Digital conversion (AM/FM, USB and Bluetooth) to install in my F100 in the next few weeks.
Keep us posted, Jeff
The "suppressor lead" is probably the equivalent of modern radio suppression spark plug wire, as Ross mentions above. Any mechanic will have a short length of modern ignition wire in his shop, or a short coil lead you could just try in the coil to Distributor lead. Worth a try and easy to do.
BTW, the "overhand loop" is a way to take parallelism out of the line - simply put, long straight runs of ignition wire transmit more interference.
This is a pesky issue I am watching closely. I have a stock '53-'55 radio being updated with a full Aurora Digital conversion (AM/FM, USB and Bluetooth) to install in my F100 in the next few weeks.
Keep us posted, Jeff
Thanks Jeff, for the info on the overhand loop! I didn’t know about any of this. Turns out he’s got the suppression wire and correct connectors. He’s going to see if he can remove the white lettering on the black wire so it looks period correct too. So looks like that’ll happen as well as those condensers. I’ll keep you posted as this is an Aurora unit as well.
I think it would go right on the BAT terminal of the regulator.
well this finally solved the problem!!!
we installed the three condensers and the suppressor lead. I was able to listen to my newly downloaded Colter Wall album without it skipping out! 😂
I can’t thank everyone enough! FTE really pulled through for me! I’ve spoken to a dozen dedicated vintage radio people no one was able to point me in a direction like Ross did with that link to these condensers, and say try these! I’ve actually been looking for these and asking folks about them for almost a year. As I wanted to put them on just for authenticity and looks. Cause I never figured I needed them with a digital radio. Boy was I wrong! So in the end I got a working radio plus the original look of the condensers in the engine bay!
thanks to everyone who responded especially all of your helpful information!
Glad to hear it worked out for you! Ross had the answer and we all got to learn something along the way. That's what I really like about this forum. It's a like a giant reference book, and if the answer seems elusive there's always great guys like Ross who could point you towards a solution. Its such a great feeling to solve a problem. Now you can back to 100% truck enjoyment. Thanks for sharing your results!
Excellent you got it working and thanks for sharing . Woo I just checked out Colter Wall and my country music allergy kicked in , now my truck won't start and my dog ran away . LOL
Great news. Looks like I am installing some condensers!
Here's a question for Ross: Is a modern alternator shielded, or if not, where does the capacitor install? I don't ever recall seeing a cap on an alternator, but I have one in the F100, and am soon to install a digital radio.
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