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Digital Radio Conversion Problems

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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 01:31 PM
  #16  
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Did you find the problem?

Hey there 52! What did you find out about this
Did you fix it? And if so what did you find that was causing your issue?
I am sorry for being nosey. But if you found the problem next time someone else is having problems we could point them to what to look for.
Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 01:53 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hooler1
Hey there 52! What did you find out about this
Did you fix it? And if so what did you find that was causing your issue?
I am sorry for being nosey. But if you found the problem next time someone else is having problems we could point them to what to look for.
Thanks!
hi Hooler thanks for asking no apologies needed!

replaced the volt regulator, tapping stopped, but no effect on the radio problem. Next up is a newly rebuilt generator to be installed.

we ran tests described here and from Aurora these were the results;

AM/Fm
reception Good All the time. No Change running/not
BT/USB
Works when charging system not on.

which leads us to believe it’s the charging system as when the truck was running and the charging system disconnected radio worked.

I don’t know what to do if that new generator goes in and this problem is still there, I’m
having nightmares about it!




 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 05:55 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 52Flthed
hi Hooler thanks for asking no apologies needed!

replaced the volt regulator, tapping stopped, but no effect on the radio problem. Next up is a newly rebuilt generator to be installed.

we ran tests described here and from Aurora these were the results;

AM/Fm
reception Good All the time. No Change running/not
BT/USB
Works when charging system not on.

which leads us to believe it’s the charging system as when the truck was running and the charging system disconnected radio worked.

I don’t know what to do if that new generator goes in and this problem is still there, I’m
having nightmares about it!
Thanks 52!
Sounds like you got it isolated to the charging system. If a new generator doesn't help please get back to us and we'll see if we can come up with some more things to try.
Thanks for the update!
 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 06:01 PM
  #19  
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The Aurora systems are 12V positive ground. They need a special voltage/polarity adapter board installed to use with 6V pos or neg ground systems. Your's no doubt had this option installed, cuz it worked once.

I would suspect that you have a voltage fluctuation issue causing your problems, as the Aurora based radios use the on/off power function to change modes. If it is going low voltage because of some power supply problem, it will be changing modes every time.
Radio suppression issues, also called "radio noise", is just static, and usually manifests itself as audio static, that changes with the speed of the engine. Very audible and distinct. Resistor ignition wires, and radio suppression condensers on generators, counter the radio noise., but would not generally cause the kind of wild action you are seeing on your radio and accessories.
I don't see it mentioned here, but have you spoken to the radio guy or shop that did your conversion?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 06:54 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JeffLee
The Aurora systems are 12V positive ground. They need a special voltage/polarity adapter board installed to use with 6V pos or neg ground systems. Your's no doubt had this option installed, cuz it worked once.

I would suspect that you have a voltage fluctuation issue causing your problems, as the Aurora based radios use the on/off power function to change modes. If it is going low voltage because of some power supply problem, it will be changing modes every time.
Radio suppression issues, also called "radio noise", is just static, and usually manifests itself as audio static, that changes with the speed of the engine. Very audible and distinct. Resistor ignition wires, and radio suppression condensers on generators, counter the radio noise., but would not generally cause the kind of wild action you are seeing on your radio and accessories.
I don't see it mentioned here, but have you spoken to the radio guy or shop that did your conversion?

Hi Jeff,

Yes that is correct it has the 12 volt converter built into the unit. It's been back to the shop that built the radio 2 times for this problem alone. He's checked all his grounds inside the radio and actually rebuilt the entire thing with all new boards FMR, Blue tooth, a new converter the whole 9 yards, it has all the latest and greatest Aurora components. So he's at a loss as to what is causing this, as is the engineer and one of the founders of Aurora Design and they both have told me they've never heard of anything like this in their careers. Lucky me! LOL.

That's the funny thing there's no audible noise in the traditional sense of problems you hear with radios and electrical interference. The only problem we're having is that the Blue Tooth and USB doesn't work with the engine running. Phone calls just hang up or won't engage at all. Songs will just skip to the next song 1/4 way or once in awhile half way through the song or will skip so fast they won't even play the song, they will skip so rapidly. Sometimes the skipping of songs is so fast you can't even hear any audio but if you look on my phone you'll see the album art flashing by at a 50 images a second or something like that. AM and FM are working fine. Now if only there were any decent stations to listen to.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 08:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JeffLee
The Aurora systems are 12V positive ground. They need a special voltage/polarity adapter board installed to use with 6V pos or neg ground systems. Your's no doubt had this option installed, cuz it worked once.

I would suspect that you have a voltage fluctuation issue causing your problems, as the Aurora based radios use the on/off power function to change modes. If it is going low voltage because of some power supply problem, it will be changing modes every time.
Radio suppression issues, also called "radio noise", is just static, and usually manifests itself as audio static, that changes with the speed of the engine. Very audible and distinct. Resistor ignition wires, and radio suppression condensers on generators, counter the radio noise., but would not generally cause the kind of wild action you are seeing on your radio and accessories.
I don't see it mentioned here, but have you spoken to the radio guy or shop that did your conversion?
Jeff, I love your 56 F350 flatbed! and your 54 F100. That's a good pair to own!

To not Hi-Jack this thread I sent you a PM about the boards in your flatbed.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2021 | 11:45 PM
  #22  
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You can pinpoint the problems as being caused by the generator by simply disconnecting the wires on the generator, and running it like that while trying the functions on the radio.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 05:56 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
You can pinpoint the problems as being caused by the generator by simply disconnecting the wires on the generator, and running it like that while trying the functions on the radio.
thanks!!!!!
 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 09:36 AM
  #24  
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Sorry 52FLThd - I didn't read your original thread carefully, but got caught up in the responses. I see you did have the unit tested by the builder.

I still stick by my comment - I think you are having voltage fluctuations, or surges, in the truck's power supply. And that could be coming from a number of sources and loads. I would try running a new power supply line directly from the battery terminals to the radio power wires, and see if that eliminates the problem. This would not be practical long-term fix as you would always have to be sure the radio was off.
But it will isolate the power supply so you can see if the interference is coming from something like a twitchy ignition switch or some other component of your ignition or charging system. And you can check the USB and Bluetooth issues while the truck is running and off.

Happy hunting, and Merry Christmas, Jeff
 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 09:46 AM
  #25  
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And Ross's comment of disconnecting the Gen wires is another great simple test suggestion.

Is the power currently picked up off the Accessory terminal of the ignition switch? Or perhaps an accessory fuse holder?

BTW, I love electrical problems, as long as they are not mine! Ha!
Jeff
 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 06:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JeffLee
And Ross's comment of disconnecting the Gen wires is another great simple test suggestion.

Is the power currently picked up off the Accessory terminal of the ignition switch? Or perhaps an accessory fuse holder?

BTW, I love electrical problems, as long as they are not mine! Ha!
Jeff
yes picked up off the Accessory terminal of the ignition switch.


 
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 06:15 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
You can pinpoint the problems as being caused by the generator by simply disconnecting the wires on the generator, and running it like that while trying the functions on the radio.
essentially I believe that is what he did? He disconnected the wire going to the voltage regulator before it gets regulated and out to the ignition switch and dash wire harness. When this was done the Bluetooth /USB worked. So I believe in theory that the generator has been isolated as being the culprit?
Hopefully that proves correct when the generator gets replaced. I bought a rebuilt one from a guy who seems to do a great job with them off of EBay. I’m keeping my fingers crossed!
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 10:35 AM
  #28  
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Update:

Newly Rebuilt Generator installed and the radio is still doing the same thing. Everybody seems to be out of ideas?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 11:34 AM
  #29  
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Did you ever verify that the spark plug wires are radio suppression types? Can you post a picture of them or link to the vendor's website?
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 12:18 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 52Flthed
yes picked up off the Accessory terminal of the ignition switch.
Isolate the radio and run straight off the battery, in situ.

Ignition switches can have internal intermittence. Perhaps the "accessory" contact is intermittent, and the "ignition" contacts fine, so the problem is manifested only in the radio. Put a digital voltmeter on the accessory terminal and see if the power is dirty, with the car running.

My Aurora conversion came with a wiring harness that included the wires coming out of the radio terminating at a "Molex" connector (a white plastic interconnect with a matrix of terminals), and the mating connector with wires that could be permanently connected to the cars speakers and power. Separate this connector and make sure both the male and female side pins are fully seated, aligned and not bent. Sometimes they get loose, and push out when mated, making a bad or non-connection.
 
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