Need help
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New User
Joined: Nov 2021
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Need help
I have a 1992 Ford F-250 with a 7.3 idi non turbo and it drains the batteries while I am driving won’t drain them when the engine is off alternator is good and voltage regulator is good does someone know what I need to do and how to fix the problem?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
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Also I assume it's stalling while driving? Is it a manual or automatic? Need more information..
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Edmond, OK
You can put a volt meter across the terminals of either battery when the engine is running and you should read 13.8V. If your OE alternator failed it would be a good excuse to do the 3G alternator upgrade.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
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I've heard little about the 3g alternator. Tell me why you like it instead of stock?
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I know you said the alternator isn't bad, I'm assuming you got it tested at a auto shop? Did that for mine, they said it was good with their computer contraption. Still had issues. Did a diy test where you pull the negative terminal off the battery while it's running. If it does like mine did, that means the alternator is bad no matter what that darn computer says.
Also I assume it's stalling while driving? Is it a manual or automatic? Need more information..
Also I assume it's stalling while driving? Is it a manual or automatic? Need more information..
Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 247
Likes: 29
Check your codes. If it has fuel pressure and new spark plugs, cap and rotor, and wires, it may potentially be the Pip sensor in the distributor. Check your codes. I replaced mine because it was the last thing that could possibly be replaced after replacing my fuel pump, cap & rotor, ignition coil, alternator, Sparkies, and more. Had no codes, and replaced every electrical component before I got to the distributor. I bought mine from O'rielly's for $120 with cap & rotor. That was my fix, it would just stall out randomly while driving. No consistency in the stalling for me, sometimes several times in a couple minutes. Sometimes after a hundred miles..
Fuel pressure is important and easy to check. Make sure your pump and selector work if you have one.
Fuel pressure is important and easy to check. Make sure your pump and selector work if you have one.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
Check your codes. If it has fuel pressure and new spark plugs, cap and rotor, and wires, it may potentially be the Pip sensor in the distributor. Check your codes. I replaced mine because it was the last thing that could possibly be replaced after replacing my fuel pump, cap & rotor, ignition coil, alternator, Sparkies, and more. Had no codes, and replaced every electrical component before I got to the distributor. I bought mine from O'rielly's for $120 with cap & rotor. That was my fix, it would just stall out randomly while driving. No consistency in the stalling for me, sometimes several times in a couple minutes. Sometimes after a hundred miles..
Fuel pressure is important and easy to check. Make sure your pump and selector work if you have one.
Fuel pressure is important and easy to check. Make sure your pump and selector work if you have one.
Either the alternator is bad, the batteries are bad, or the wires in between them are bad.
Check the voltage at the alternator, and at the batteries while it is running. Check both batteries separately as well to see if there is an issue with one of them.
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Mountain Pass
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