No it's not starting its building to 41 to 43 then it stops building but will stay at that psi until the fp shuts off then it will drain back to zero I put new seals all thru the fuel bowl I'm not sure it's even making it to the heads like I loosened the cvc where it goes into the head and there is no fuel dripping or anything out of it I did change the spring but didn't change the plunger or anything the engine was out when I did the cups and I went bye ford doing them with the lock tight in multiple places where it sits in the head and they sat for two weeks before I put back together imma get a scanner this weekend hopefully and then I can do a buzz test to see if maybe the new valve cover gaskets are working as it does not seem like I'm getting fire to the injectors on top of the psi so even with the right psi no power no fire anything else cause I'm following u guys as to what to try next anybody live in Detroit wanna come take a look lol cause I swear I love my truck but I'm tired of seeing it sit here it's my first diesel I have owned and now I have a lot more money in it for nothing it turns over good and seems like it won't to try but bye that time my batteries are dying so I have to charge them again

 

What is OP ?

 

OK so how do I block off the return line to do that

 

OP = Original Poster

Well I hadn’t thought that far into it yet.
I’ve done the Hutch mod so I would probably kink the rubber return line at the tank. Is there anywhere else that has the possibility of plugging or kinking the return?

 

I just noticed this. It’s also possible there is some issue with the mod. I typically start looking at things that have recently changed when troubleshooting.

 

I think imma try to put it back together the way it was before I did the mod on the fuel bowl just gotta figure out what or who I watched to do it in the first place SMH I knew I should not have done it

 

The fuel pressure is lower than desired but still within spec. If you don't think fuel is getting to the heads you could crack the lines to each to see if fuel is getting out of the bowl. Another thing that comes to mind is the ipr connector, any chance you accidentally swapped it with the ebpv pigtail?

 

When I rebuilt my fuel bowl a few years ago, I misaligned the return line on the FPR. The parker sleeve still sealed and there were no adverse visual conditions.

Although, the pressure shot up to 100 PSI and would drop to 50 or so just by tapping the accelerator.

Turns out the return line was ever so slightly (1/64 or so) off center on one side and when recentered it went back to normal operation. I'm not saying this is your problem and I know you have different symptoms, but if one of those hard parts is ever so slightly misaligned, then that could be an issue.

 

OK I will definitely be looking into it again this weekend. I do have a question? Would a IPR with a chip in the end where it flares up cause this because when I took this one out it was chipped I bought a new one just waiting for it to arrive

 

Could you be more specific about the location or better yet a pic. Here are a couple videos showing teardown of the IPR valve, they may help.


also

 

what I mean is on one end there is a nut that holds the solenoid on. on the opposite end before the small o ring it flares up. I

Ok so at this end where it flares. the one in my truck has a chip out of it on this end would that cause the fuel pressure issue? Could it leak pressure at that particular spot imma change it this weekend anyways but hoping for more input.
don't have the one in the truck out at the moment I put it back in so nothing got up in the hole

 

No the ipr valve is how the pcm controls the high pressure oil, it has no bearing on the fuel system.

 

[QUOTE=udsuth78;20179822]No the ipr valve is how the pcm controls the high pressure oil, it has no bearing on the fuel.
ok thanks. Probably won't have time this weekend to work on it but still taking suggestions as I have fixed all leaks from tank to fp imma check from fp to fuel bowl and the check valves I did change both on the head to ffd high flow valves and the banjo bolts