Found it, something to help your back. It's called Topside Creeper. I've been thinking about my back too. It was pretty sore after replacing the PCV on the top, back area of the boxer engine in my subaru last Fall. The car is lowered, so that didn't help either. I know it's not cheap...but then, I always have been good at spending other people's money. Even had that Rep at work. When I was introduced to one of the new senior managers, after he heard my name, the next out of his mouth was, "so you're the one spends all the money".

https://traxionproducts.com/products...hoCxHQQAvD_BwE

 

It's not cheap, but I sure am!

See post #1314 in this long thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20338594

 

I have also thought about something like that ^ I have done something like that using still cardboard on top of the engine battery side before.

With one of those new Little Giant type step ladders, that would be easy to climb onto.

 

Boys and Girls,

I've come up with an idea for a very simple lift adapter that will clear the carb. Can somebody be so kind as to take a measurement for me? I want to make sure my idea will work. The engine is a 351W with stock 2bbl manifold.

This picture shows my existing homemade lift adapter bolted to the top of the intake manifold, with the carb removed. The view is from the aft of the engine, looking forward. As best I can determine, the highlighted bolt (red arrow) is roughly even with the aft edge of the stock air cleaner. The air cleaner housing is roughly 16" diameter. I remember the firewall has an overhang near the top, but I can't remember if it actually hangs out over the air cleaner. I'm trying to figure out how long of a bolt I can install at that location. Even though I took a bunch of pictures before removal, I have nothing taken from a good angle in that area. As I remember, the air cleaner is fairly close to the firewall, so this bolt would also be close.





For the simple adapter I have in mind, I'd need about 9" of vertical clearance above that bolt. I hope to reuse the existing adapter, sitting up about 7" from the top of the manifold (to clear the carb), plus about 2" extra to raise the engine for the motor mounts to clear the frame. I've got a plan B if there's not enough clearance, but version A is so simple (long bolts with spacers made from pipe) that I'd really like to go that route if possible.

 

With the short bolts against the manifold that takes out the eccentricity of hanging it by the angle leg. With long bolts things might roll in the bolt hole slop and the eccentric bending will be taken out at the bolt manifold interface.

Why not use two small lengths of angle at the manifold bolts and then chain it up and over the carb with a spreader above?

 

Here is a test fit:



The upright pipes act as spacers. At each end, I’ve tack welded a washer to keep the bolt centered. This should help resist any tipping action. The long bolts thread into the manifold same as before, about 1.5 inches.

With the bolts tightened, the whole thing feels very stout, despite appearances. I plan to do a stress test tomorrow. I’ll hoist the engine (with attached stand) about an inch off the floor and try to make it fail. The engine’s weight is pretty well centered under the horizontal piece, so there is virtually no twisting moment in play. If it doesn’t feel sturdy while suspended from the hoist, I will abandon this idea.

I took some measurements with a straight edge, using the bellhousing face as a reference plane. Looks like I should have about an inch clearance from the overhang on the firewall. Fingers crossed that I measured correctly.


I wanted something rigid over the carb so it would be protected from the arm of the hoist.

 

I think your method can work and the load should be balanced. Only thing I would change is short chains instead of long bolts. Keep the same top arrangement but hook or bolt chains to holes in short angle ears on the manifold and on the spreader.
The reason being gives more degrees of freedom so as to find its natural hanging position. You still can't crash the lift into the carb. But that would be operator error.

 

Oh yeah, you should be able to find eye bolts that will screw into the engine threads. I assume 3/8 eye bolts should work.

 

Not a bad idea. The threads are 7/16"-14, a bit of an oddball size for an eyebolt, but they are available.

I'm not entirely sold on my current plan, at least until I can give it a stress test today after work, but I think it will be fine. I wasn't able to test it yesterday as I don't have the intake manifold torqued down yet. I was having trouble getting a good seal between the manifold and block, so I had to redo the installation. The manifold is just sitting there loosely until the RTV cures and I can snug it down.

On a related note, an engine hoist makes it SO much nicer when removing and installing the manifold, whether on the vehicle or on an engine stand. That's a big awkward chunk of cast iron. The hoist makes it so much easier to raise and lower the manifold. I took some long 5/16" bolts, cut off the heads, and tapered the ends to make guide pins.

I had another thought if I go with chains instead of a rigid bolt-on adapter. No matter how I lift the engine, I want to protect the carb. When getting everything set up, it's easy to accidentally smack the carb. I could make a quick box from 1/2" plywood or similar, to fit over the carb. That should be enough to protect it while getting the chains in place.

 

I knew somebody would suggest eyebolts, but I knew with the threads some digging would be required.

Why not remove the carb for the engine install? Might be easier than building a box to protect it?

 

Cuz I'm stubborn as a mule.

I prepped the engine for installation today. Just for giggles, I measured how much time I'd save under the hood by installing the carb and associated bits ahead of time. It was only about 75 minutes, but each and every one was very pleasant and easy on my back.

I tested my bar and pipe apparatus today. Despite appearances, it was solid as a rock.

Does anybody know the purpose of those two big threaded holes in the manifold? 7/16" is quite big for attaching some components. Quite deep, too, about 1.5" . Considering the beefy size and position at diagonal corners, I wonder if those were factory hoist points.

 

I can't say for sure on the 351 but I think you are correct. My 6.9 has 4 angle ears with holes in them for hooks/hoist points on the manifold, though one was removed, three remain.

 

Um, that's a redundant statement. It's a given around here that I'm correct.

For giggles, I looked in the service manual for details on hoist points. Here's an excerpt from the manual, kinda vague, but it does mention the attach points on the intake manifold. No specifics about the sling. The manual did not mention to remove either the carb or hood. In my over-rated opinion, you'd have to remove one or the other unless you had a special hoist adapter like I made. And I have yet to try it, so am not positive it will clear:






I looked up tool T70P-6000 and came up with this, just a tad on the expensive side for the official Ford version:

https://www.tillmantools.com/Ford-Ro...rot303-050.htm



It looks like each chain loop comes with two brackets, apparently with different sized bolt holes. OTC sells a highly-rated version with one bracket, for a lot less money:

https://www.otctools.com/products/li...00-lb-capacity

 

Yeah, but we have new readers all the time...so getting them up to speed!

 

Woo Hoo! Much happiness to report. My calculations were right on the money. My hoist adapter, shown above, worked like a charm. We had a nice break in the weather yesterday and I got the engine in place with the carb already installed. Still need a few hours to finish hooking up everything. The adapter cleared the firewall and hood with a good inch to spare. It never seemed too close, or made me wish I had removed the hood.