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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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Question for you engineer types

Would 2 2x6s with a 3/4 plywood sandwiched in bewtween,[glued and bolted together] support a 6.9?? Keep in mind Im pulling the clip so it doesent have to come way up. The span would be 12 feet
 

Last edited by Rick Wallace; Jul 15, 2010 at 05:20 PM. Reason: forgot something
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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I'm not sure as this would be dealing with more of a point-load than a spanning load. However some thoughts on reducing the load:

Could you run some 4x4 posts right next to the fenders to cut your supporting load span down to say 7 or 8 feet instead? This would be much safer than running it over a 12 foot span.

Should you need the 12 foot span I'd pack a bunch of studs in the walls under where this load will be supported. Standard wall headers aren't meant to support that much weight on a single stud or spanned between 2 studs.

And lastly, if this is mainly a one time deal, I think you might be able to rent a hoist for around what the 2x6's and plywood and glue and bolts will run ya.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Problem with a hoist is a dirt foor...If I could use a chain hoist I was thinking I could at least get it out It sucks having limited space! yes I could put some 4xs in there
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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Well it's definately do-able. We used to lift our tractor engines from the rafters in our garage. What we did there was a 6x6 that spanned a bunch of the rafters to distribute the weight across a larger area. Then we tied the joists into the rafters on each side of the lifting 6x6 (vertical ties were about 3 feet apart center to center) For the heavy stuff we'd put another 6x6 (we had lots of 6x6's around the farm lol) under the lifting 6x6 above the joists and support that with some vertical 6x6's on either side and then snug them up with a bottle jack under each. On a dirt floor you'll want to put the jacks or vertical posts on a 2x6 or 2x8 to keep it from sinking in, we had a concrete floor so no sinking issue.

I'll have to check but I think I might have an engineering reference book at home with a point load table in it...
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 06:08 PM
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your best option would be to rent an engine lift,and use a sheet of 5/8 plywood or double up a couple 1/2 sheets under it,so you can roll it easier.
suppose that would work,or would it just crush the lift wheels into the plywood?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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I think it might sink in a bit. When I pulled mine I was on concrete and it took a bit to get the thing rolling. The smallest chunk of rust/dirt/stone was enough to jam up a wheel from rolling with that much weight on it.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Is there any way you can triangulate a brace from the roof down to the lift piont. Sorta like a V. If you can screw or bolt a 2x4 or 6 about half way up the runner to the roof and then angle it down to the lift point and do the same on the other side it with expotentionaly increase the load bearing wieght of the cross memeber. It would hav to pull the roof down to collapse.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kenpobuck
Is there any way you can triangulate a brace from the roof down to the lift piont. Sorta like a V. If you can screw or bolt a 2x4 or 6 about half way up the runner to the roof and then angle it down to the lift point and do the same on the other side it with expotentionaly increase the load bearing wieght of the cross memeber. It would hav to pull the roof down to collapse.
The roof is only a lean off the side of the shop,at the highest point is 7'5.. Ill figure out somthing,just trying to get by with what I have..thanks
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 07:15 PM
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Get a sheet of 3/4" osb and place it under the truck between the wheels. That at least will give you a solid flat surface to roll a picker on. I have done this many times whe nall i had was the stone driveway to work on. I evy you haveing at least a roof lol.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 07:23 PM
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I may wind up doing that, hell,I dont know!!! Im calling for prices tommorow for a slab out there. Who knows,maybe it wont be as expensive as Im thinking.......
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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The longer the span your deflection increases exponentially. If you could put a brace in the middle at 6ft you drastically reduce deflection and chance of breakage. If you put two 6x6's with the long sides facing up and made a road bed out of the plywood on top like making a C channel you would be much stronger. I beams are very strong yet light because most of the beams mass is far from the center of the cross section. It depends on which way you would run your board. Oriented like this would be stronger III or the three sandwiched more like an E would be weaker.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tabascom16
The longer the span your deflection increases exponentially. If you could put a brace in the middle at 6ft you drastically reduce deflection and chance of breakage. If you put two 6x6's with the long sides facing up and made a road bed out of the plywood on top like making a C channel you would be much stronger. I beams are very strong yet light because most of the beams mass is far from the center of the cross section. It depends on which way you would run your board. Oriented like this would be stronger III or the three sandwiched more like an E would be weaker.
Thats exactly what I was thinking,making the "sandwich" then turning the boards up, not flat,Thank you, If I could get the span down to around 8 feet do you think it would support that much weight?? I could also go to 2x8s if need be
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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I think it would. Just go slow.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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If that will work Ill use Kens Idea for the engine stand.......when I find one big enough...that I can afford of course!
 
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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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They aint cheap no more. I got mine back in the 80's for about $35. It was had many engines haging on it. But that 6.9 almost killed it lol.
 
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