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This probably fits into the "No such thing as a dumb question" category.
I've decided to pull the 351W out of my '91 F150 super cab 4x4. I have purchased the HF 1 ton engine stand. I'm trying to decide whether to rent or buy a hoist. The HF one seems to have a good reputation. My question is related to getting the engine onto the stand. The caster diameters only differ by 1/2" so I don't see how the engine stand can be 90 degrees to the hoist. They are currently out of stock so I cannot go look at them. Does anyone know whether the stand and hoist will fit end to end such that the engine can be transferred to the stand? I've seen at least 1 video where this was a problem.
Why did you buy an engine stand that can hold 4,000lbs?
You going to hang the truck off of it, after the engine is out?
Basically, that is the wrong stand for that type of hoist.
A 1/2 ton (1,000lbs) engine stand will be fine, and would fit with the hoist.
Why did you buy an engine stand that can hold 4,000lbs?
You going to hang the truck off of it, after the engine is out?
Basically, that is the wrong stand for that type of hoist.
A 1/2 ton (1,000lbs) engine stand will be fine, and would fit with the hoist.
That was a typo on my part, which I have corrected. I have the 1 ton Engine Stand (2,000 lbs). They don't make a 2 ton stand. I purchased the 2 ton because of some problems people had with the quality of the half ton as it pertains to aligning with the block and also concerns over stability. Although there are also plenty of good reviews. It did not occur to me that they would make a stand that did not work with their engine hoists. The stand is still boxed and will be returned, so back to the drawing board on stands.
What kind of hoist does this type of stand work with?
I'd like to hear from someone who actually owns a 1/2 ton stand & has used it to work on a 351W.
I have their 1/2 ton engine stand that I purchased about 2 years ago. Currently has a 351w on it in storage. Due to the smaller front legs on it they work great together. It is quite capable tool. My cherry picker is from a now defunct store from the early 90's called Tool Town. Mine is not foldable, so it may be slightly larger than the HF cherry picker, but probably very similar.
As a side note, if you keep your chain across the engine tight you can lift the 351w out of the engine bay without even removing the hood. The engine stand easily allows it to work with the cherry picker to transfer engine from one to the other. I have no pictures of the stand and cherry picker working together, but they do so very easily
EDIT: thought this discussion centered around a 1 ton engine hoist, so disregard that reference.
I have had a fully dressed 460 on a Summit 1/2 ton stand with the gearbox. Stand isn’t cheap but it didn’t have any problem with the engine and being able to flip it over with a few handle cranks is worth it.
I have a 1 ton Pittsburgh hoist that is essentially useless. It isn’t wide enough at the legs to clear the front wheels of the stand and get close enough to the mounting plate to secure the engine (this was bare block). The reach, even at 1/4 ton, is too short. Bought a 2 ton Torin to replace it and have no issues with leg spacing clearing the engine stand.
I’d buy the best you can afford . Makes life easier and safer. And if you ever move on, you can likely sell the hardware and recover much of the cost.
All this said, I haven’t used the Torin to remove or install an engine, but I’m comfortable it will yank out the 351M and install the 460 safely.
Last edited by packagerjr; Sep 28, 2021 at 12:47 PM.
Reason: Understanding
I own a 1/2 ton stand, and have a 351w all dressed sitting on it.
I'll have to take pictures, to describe what I like about it.
Later tonight.
Much appreciated.
Originally Posted by McLeod
I have their 1/2 ton engine stand that I purchased about 2 years ago. Currently has a 351w on it in storage. Due to the smaller front legs on it they work great together. It is quite capable tool. My cherry picker is from a now defunct store from the early 90's called Tool Town. Mine is not foldable, so it may be slightly larger than the HF cherry picker, but probably very similar.
As a side note, if you keep your chain across the engine tight you can lift the 351w out of the engine bay without even removing the hood. The engine stand easily allows it to work with the cherry picker to transfer engine from one to the other. I have no pictures of the stand and cherry picker working together, but they do so very easily
Great pictures! That's good to know about possibly not removing the hood. Can you tell me how high your radiator cross mount is from the floor? Mine is approx 48" 4x4 with 2" lifted springs and 32s. I have the Performance Tool bracket that mounts directly to 6 holes on the intake manifold so I should be able to get the hoist close to the engine. As a matter of interest what chain did you use and what did you attach it to?
Originally Posted by packagerjr
EDIT: thought this discussion centered around a 1 ton engine hoist, so disregard that reference.
I have had a fully dressed 460 on a Summit 1/2 ton stand with the gearbox. Stand isn’t cheap but it didn’t have any problem with the engine and being able to flip it over with a few handle cranks is worth it.
I have a 1 ton Pittsburgh hoist that is essentially useless. It isn’t wide enough at the legs to clear the front wheels of the stand and get close enough to the mounting plate to secure the engine (this was bare block). The reach, even at 1/4 ton, is too short. Bought a 2 ton Torin to replace it and have no issues with leg spacing clearing the engine stand.
I’d buy the best you can afford . Makes life easier and safer. And if you ever move on, you can likely sell the hardware and recover much of the cost.
All this said, I haven’t used the Torin to remove or install an engine, but I’m comfortable it will yank out the 351M and install the 460 safely.
Right now because of availability I'm looking at the HF 2 ton hoist and the 1/2 ton engine stand. I have to drive 35 miles but that's ok.
Also, another option, is the engine hoist that has the engine stand built into it.
The engine stand has perches that sit on the legs of the engine hoist.
If you have the room, as it does take up more space when it is open and not folded up:
Also, another option, is the engine hoist that has the engine stand built into it.
The engine stand has perches that sit on the legs of the engine hoist.
If you have the room, as it does take up more space when it is open and not folded up:
Interesting. I have to stick to ones I can go and pick up which limits me to HF/Tractors/Northern. Everything metal seems to be constrained.
The chain has metal tabs on either end that I attached to rear pass and front drivers side head at the end bolts using a bolt with a lot of thread grab on it.
A grade 5 bolt is likely good enough but I had some grade 8 bolts that worked perfectly there.
Top of my core support is at 50" above grade, and the hood latch protrudes several inches higher, but you can maneuver around that.
I do this by myself with no help. Piece of cake.
I lift the engine a bit then roll truck backwards a bit , then lift a little more and roll truck back again.
I think I did three or 4 lift stages and it was out.
Way easier to move the truck than the weighted down cherry picker. And, if you move the cherry picker you run the risk of the engine swinging and bashing into something and or possibly disrupting the stability of the weighted down cherry picker. My picker lives outside so the caster wheels are kind of crusty too so that plays a part in my decision.
EDIT:
On this truck I think I attached the rear passenger side to intake manifold bolt hole due to the crossover tube being in place. Just make sure you have plenty of thread engagement and install a washer between chain link and the bolt head to "help spread the load"
The chain has metal tabs on either end that I attached to rear pass and front drivers side head at the end bolts using a bolt with a lot of thread grab on it.
A grade 5 bolt is likely good enough but I had some grade 8 bolts that worked perfectly there.
Top of my core support is at 50" above grade, and the hood latch protrudes several inches higher, but you can maneuver around that.
I do this by myself with no help. Piece of cake.
I lift the engine a bit then roll truck backwards a bit , then lift a little more and roll truck back again.
I think I did three or 4 lift stages and it was out.
Way easier to move the truck than the weighted down cherry picker. And, if you move the cherry picker you run the risk of the engine swinging and bashing into something and or possibly disrupting the stability of the weighted down cherry picker. My picker lives outside so the caster wheels are kind of crusty too so that plays a part in my decision.
EDIT:
On this truck I think I attached the rear passenger side to intake manifold bolt hole due to the crossover tube being in place. Just make sure you have plenty of thread engagement and install a washer between chain link and the bolt head to "help spread the load"
I have JBA shorties on with Stage 8 locking bolts so I think I'll stick with the PT bracket. It's made for the 351W and while I really don't like the idea of putting the load on the aluminum intake manifold threads I'm sure it will be ok. I have the hood retainer off so clearance should not be an issue.
Great pictures! That's good to know about possibly not removing the hood. Can you tell me how high your radiator cross mount is from the floor? Mine is approx 48" 4x4 with 2" lifted springs and 32s. I have the Performance Tool bracket that mounts directly to 6 holes on the intake manifold so I should be able to get the hoist close to the engine. As a matter of interest what chain did you use and what did you attach it to?
Right now because of availability I'm looking at the HF 2 ton hoist and the 1/2 ton engine stand. I have to drive 35 miles but that's ok.
Just another thought on not removing the hood, If you just remove the spring bolts and support the hood by other means you can lift the hood up until it goes against the cowl (put some padding in there to prevent scratching), which gives you much more room. Since you leave the strap hinges in place realigning issues are minimal. I held mine up with a rope from overhead. Not a great pic but here is how it looked when I did it.
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