When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Steering hard would be normal, you're setting up an awful gear bind so it wants to go straight.
Never use 4wd on dry surfaces and on semi slick conditions you still need to take it out if you're making tight turns unless you have to have it in to move. basically anytime you feel it binding or wanting to hop you need to pull it out. low range is the same just slower.
True 4wd has it's draw backs but it has advantages too.
So when can you safely engage 4x4? Only when the road is slick with ice, deep snow or heavy rain? Is the differential locked permanently or can it be disengaged for smoother steering? Is the only difference between AWD and 4WD that in the latter the differential is locked? Not sure why I would want that unless I was driving over humongous boulders.
Not in the rain
Snow covered, doesn't have to be deep
I have had nothing but trucks with part time 4wd going back to trucks from the 70s. My first truck was a 78 gmc. While I wouldn’t recommend running in 4wd on dry pavement, doing so won’t hurt it. If you can feel the drive train binding you shouldn’t be in 4wd. When driving on roads the have bare spots and slick stretches I just leave in in 4wd. I have yet to have to replace or even repair a transfer case. I did prefer have an actual lever to engage 4wd and manual hubs. But what we have now seems to work fine.
Not to steal the thread, but I think the OP would appreciate this as well… As a newbie on the 4x4 wagon myself I would like to have a more expanded explanation about the manual front hubs lock. Is it more/better than just the 4x4? When do you use it? Alone or in conjunction with the 4x4?
Not to steal the thread, but I think the OP would appreciate this as well… As a newbie on the 4x4 wagon myself I would like to have a more expanded explanation about the manual front hubs lock. Is it more/better than just the 4x4? When do you use it? Alone or in conjunction with the 4x4?
If you have the electronic shift 4x4 when the hubs are in the auto position it uses vacuum to engage the hubs when you flip the switch to 4x4. Since the vacuum system often fails you have the ability to manually lock the hubs when it does.
Not to steal the thread, but I think the OP would appreciate this as well… As a newbie on the 4x4 wagon myself I would like to have a more expanded explanation about the manual front hubs lock. Is it more/better than just the 4x4? When do you use it? Alone or in conjunction with the 4x4?
The front hubs either engage the wheel to the axles, or dis-engage them. With them in the AUTO position, when you select 2H, they are dis-engaged……the wheel and the axle are not connected. When you switch to 4H a vacuum pulse makes them engage so the wheel and the axle are now connected, along with engaging the front driveshaft in the transfer case, so now you have all 4 wheels powered. With the hubs in the LOCK position, the wheels and the axle remain engaged regardless of the position of the 2H, 4H, and 4L selector. With this, yu can still leave the selecor in 2H for 2 wheel drive, but the front drive mechanism is turning all the time because it is still engaged to the wheels, 4H just engages to front driveshaft giving you 4WD, 4L gives you 4WD low range.
Hope I made everything as clear as possible for you and didn’t confuse the hades from you!
My understanding is, the current vacuum system is very reliable in these trucks. I use 4wd a lot in the winter so we shall see. My last truck was manual hubs and a floor lever, I like that best... I do not see any advantage to locking the hubs manually as longs as the auto system is working. That said the "system" is composed of several parts, vac pump, elec solenoids, hoses any one of which could cause the hubs to not lock should they fail.
The front hubs either engage the wheel to the axles, or dis-engage them. With them in the AUTO position, when you select 2H, they are dis-engaged……the wheel and the axle are not connected. When you switch to 4H a vacuum pulse makes them engage so the wheel and the axle are now connected, along with engaging the front driveshaft in the transfer case, so now you have all 4 wheels powered. With the hubs in the LOCK position, the wheels and the axle remain engaged regardless of the position of the 2H, 4H, and 4L selector. With this, yu can still leave the selecor in 2H for 2 wheel drive, but the front drive mechanism is turning all the time because it is still engaged to the wheels, 4H just engages to front driveshaft giving you 4WD, 4L gives you 4WD low range.
Hope I made everything as clear as possible for you and didn’t confuse the hades from you!
Thanks! This is more or less what I thought, so from an operational standpoint a working 4H or a manual lock hub doesn’t really make any difference, right? it seems a little strange to have a redundant manual system just in case the automatic one doesn’t work, that’s not what you normally see…
My understanding is, the current vacuum system is very reliable in these trucks. I use 4wd a lot in the winter so we shall see. My last truck was manual hubs and a floor lever, I like that best... I do not see any advantage to locking the hubs manually as longs as the auto system is working. That said the "system" is composed of several parts, vac pump, elec solenoids, hoses any one of which could cause the hubs to not lock should they fail.
The F150 has been using this vacuum system since at least 2004. That’s why I like to exercise the system a few times during the summer months. Just to make sure parts are moving properly when needed. I’ve never had a problem with the last two I’ve had other than having to replace a solenoid for the 4x4 switch in my 05.
The F150 has been using this vacuum system since at least 2004. That’s why I like to exercise the system a few times during the summer months. Just to make sure parts are moving properly when needed. I’ve never had a problem with the last two I’ve had other than having to replace a solenoid for the 4x4 switch in my 05.
The system the F150 uses is different than what the Superduty uses. On the F150 vacuum is used to keep the hubs unlocked then when 4x4 is engaged it takes the vaccum away to engage the hubs, if the vaccum system fails on those the hubs will stay locked all the time, which actually happens quite often but most people don't even notice it since 4x4 still works fine and having the hubs locked all the time doesn't create enough resistance that you can feel any difference when in 2wd. The Supeduty system uses vacuum to engage the hubs in 4x4, if that fails the hubs won't engage unless you manually lock them.
Thanks! This is more or less what I thought, so from an operational standpoint a working 4H or a manual lock hub doesn’t really make any difference, right? it seems a little strange to have a redundant manual system just in case the automatic one doesn’t work, that’s not what you normally see…
Well, there are folks like me, when I lived in the northland and it would get down to -30 to -40 quite frequently, the lube in the hubs might actually get so stiff one could not depend on them to lock with the vacuum, so I would thurn mine to “LOCK” about Halloween, and unlock them again about easter. That way I KNEW they would be engaged when I wanted them, rather than rely on a system that may or may not work. Back in the day, before automatic hubs I did the same thing. Just ONE time, when I was stuck in my yard at -30 or so, I had to go to the shop and get a propane torch to warm the hubs up to get them to engage. After that, they stayed locked all winter. And I still prefer the locking hubs to all other type of automatic systems out there.
Something to remember if you get stuck in 4wd because you drove on hard packed ground of any sort, stop leave it in 4 wd then backup about 15-20 feet then turn the **** back to 2h. Some 4wd systems wind up when they are driven on dry ground/pavement, or hard pack dry ground, you have to unwind them. Also when turning do not use a heavy foot on the gas, this will bind up the system also. 4 wheel drive systems even when they have the same ratio in both the front end and rear end the wheels do not turn at the same speed, due to tire size, which no two tires are the same outside size. Also turning and road conditions cause the front and rear ends/tires to rotate at different speeds, hence this allows the transfer case to wind up. This stops the transfer as to lock up and you cannot get it out of gear or shift it. Just backing it up for 15-20 feet will allow this to happen. I have seen a lot since I started driving a 1959 Ford f100 4x4 in 1970.
Smokeploe
thank you. I have a long stretch of road in neighborhood and I decided to engage the 4x4 as it was snowing. Roads are wet but not covered in snow and wanted to check the system. When I went back to 2H it stayed in 4wd even though the 4H light was out. I did stop and back up to get it to disengage. Glad to find out reason. Now going to find out why front wheels speak a little when in 4wd.
Now going to find out why front wheels speak a little when in 4wd.
We have simple u-joints on the ends of the front axle to allow steering, not the more complex CV (constant velocity) axle shafts as found on front wheel drive cars and AWD vehicles. This means that in a turn the front wheels are speeding up and slowing down relative to the front carrier speed during each revolution. It's very noticeable in our trucks with the traction provided by the heavy front ends unless you are on a seriously slippery surface.
I didn't notice it so much driving my '81 Bronco, but it is very pronounced with the SD.
We have simple u-joints on the ends of the front axle to allow steering, not the more complex CV (constant velocity) axle shafts as found on front wheel drive cars and AWD vehicles. This means that in a turn the front wheels are speeding up and slowing down relative to the front carrier speed during each revolution. It's very noticeable in our trucks with the traction provided by the heavy front ends unless you are on a seriously slippery surface.
I didn't notice it so much driving my '81 Bronco, but it is very pronounced with the SD.
Thank you! Appreciate the help and knowledge from this site!
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.