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I bought a rebuilt carb from Cowboy John two weeks ago. He said he's busy. He doesn't have rebuilt Holley 2 barrel carbs sitting on a shelf. He rebuilds them as orders come in. He said it will take 4-5 weeks to get it to me. I got the mail today and there was a box. I asked my wife if she ordered something. I wasn't expecting anything. Then I see the return name of John Plaskan and almost leapt for joy. I took the box out to the garage and opened it.
It looks great. It is slightly different than my current Holley. But I don't think my current carb is original to the truck since it has an arm for dash pot that automatics had. See the pics
I almost put it on tonight but then I thought maybe I should put a phenolic spacer under it. What do you guys think? Do I need a spacer to prevent heat transfer?
Could I have rebuilt my old carb myself? Yes.
Would it look as nice a John's? No.
Would my rebuild be resistant to E-gas? I'm not sure.
Would I have been able to put new mechanicals like you see on my new carb? No.
Also, John mounts his carbs on an engine and dials them in.
Have you ever had an issue with carb heat sink and drivability issues with the truck before? Is there a reason why you think you need one, other than you think it couldn't hurt? You will need to replace the carb mounting studs with longer ones if you decide on the thicker spacer. And there's always that chance of breaking something when you start trying to remove old studs sitting in cast iron for 60+ years.
Have you ever had an issue with carb heat sink and drivability issues with the truck before? Is there a reason why you think you need one, other than you think it couldn't hurt? You will need to replace the carb mounting studs with longer ones if you decide on the thicker spacer. And there's always that chance of breaking something when you start trying to remove old studs sitting in cast iron for 60+ years.
This past year the truck suffered vapor lock twice. However I really think my fuel line was too close to the crossover pipe. So I think I'll not get a spacer. And then I can put the carb on tomorrow morning and not wait for a spacer to arrive.
Just yesterday Cowboy John received a box I sent to him containing a 226 water pump and single-barrel carburetor. Now that the driving season is over I sent them away to get rebuilt. I hope to get a box back from John close to Christmas. If so, I'll hand over the box to my wife, she will put a ribbon and bow on it, and with luck I'll have something to open on Christmas morning.
I put insurance on the package sent to John cause those 226 truck water pumps are as valuable and rare as a Viking gold coin.
Then I'll have to increase the insurance value of my truck by $3,000 once the rebuilt pump is installed.
Tom
What's the best way to clean up this bracket before I put it on my new carb? And how to give it that same color?
I called John. He said take a wire wheel to it and clean it up. Then either spray it with clear or paint it satin black. You won't get it to match the color of the carb.
I cleaned it up with the wire wheel. It looked real nice so I sprayed clear on it.
Last edited by abe; Nov 11, 2021 at 06:04 PM.
Reason: Update
After waiting to buy a better gasket, I got the carb on today.
Two problems: the choke set up was a lot different. I just had to make sure I left enough cable to open and close the choke completely.
Problem #2: I had a hard time getting the vacuum line into the carb. Either the threads were messed up or different or the female end on the new carb was smaller. I called Cowboy John to ask what kind of thread the new carb has and what size it is. He thought all Ford carbs should have the same vacuum orafice. Luckily my vacuum line had a larger adapter on it. I took that off and the threaded male end easily screwed into the carb. So not all Ford carbs have the same vacuum opening.
I poured some gas in the carb, pulled the choke and it nearly started.... some more gas in the carb and this time it started and kept running. After it warmed up, I pushed the choke in and it idled very nice. I had planned on taking it out for a drive but my buddy who helped me with the vacuum fitting got to talking and it got dark. So that will have to wait until tomorrow.
I got the truck put today. It ran good. It ran strong. Not that it didn't run good before but I think it has more pep and does not hesitate at all.
That's looking good Abe? Did you send in your old carb as a core, or do you still have it as a spare? Lots of things can and do go wrong with our old trucks. Hopefully carb issues will be off the suspect list for awhile. If you ever get a notion to test your truck out on an extended road trip, you'd be welcome any time to come to my little part of the world. No mountains, but lots of lakes and leaves here.
Good job Abe! It looks great and sounds like it is working good. The true test will come next summer when you have one of those 100 degree days.. My truck has about 1" worth of spacers. They were there when I rebuilt my carb so I just left them on t when I put it back. I'm guessing years ago my Grandpa / Dad were having issues and they were added at that time. Happy driving! Dave
Good job Abe! It looks great and sounds like it is working good. The true test will come next summer when you have one of those 100 degree days.. My truck has about 1" worth of spacers. They were there when I rebuilt my carb so I just left them on t when I put it back. I'm guessing years ago my Grandpa / Dad were having issues and they were added at that time. Happy driving! Dave
I was humming of putting a spacer on but then decided not to. I think the reason I got vapor lock last summer was that the duel line was closer to the crossover pipe than the block. So now I make sure it is farther away from the pipe. I also want to add insulation to the fuel line.
The true test will be in 3 or 4 days of sitting. That is when I had to put gas or ether in the carb to start it. Hopefully, that problem is now solved.
Cowboy John solved that problem for me. I have a glass carburetor bowl, so before the rebuild, I could see that the gas level in the bowl go down to empty in just a few days of sitting. Now, the gas level stays up, and start-ups are easy. My truck's been sitting for three weeks, and the gas level in the bowl is still right where it ought to be. Hope your experience is similar.
Jim
Edit: Oops. I guess I hadn't really looked in awhile. After three weeks (contrary to what's stated above), the gas level is actually noticeably down some in the bowl, but still high enough for a quick start.
I was humming of putting a spacer on but then decided not to. I think the reason I got vapor lock last summer was that the duel line was closer to the crossover pipe than the block. So now I make sure it is farther away from the pipe. I also want to add insulation to the fuel line.
The true test will be in 3 or 4 days of sitting. That is when I had to put gas or ether in the carb to start it. Hopefully, that problem is now solved.
Abe ,on adding insulation to fuel line I used rubber fuel line and slit it all the way and over lapped the metal line.I thought that looked much better than the insulation stuff out there for all to see..
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