Ford SPOUT Circuit Timing Connector. Check this guy out

ScannerDanner gets his butt kicked by an '88 F-150 (EEC-IV Ignition)

not my truck but this dam little gray POS is the problem.

I will feel confident this is it by end of next week.
It started this morning in the upper 40s

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and support with this old beast of a truck.

 

Hope you get it worked out man, hate to see a good truck go to waste.

 

In essence, that little grey thing is nothing more than a jumper wire. It's not a "part" as most people would think of it, there's no chip in it, there's no resistors, or capacitors. It's either going to work, or it doesn't, as all it's doing is making a connection. Your issue is with a component on either side of that connector, if that's indeed the issue. The Spout Connector itself? There's nothing there to go bad, unless the contacts are rotted out of it.

 

Yep. All that is doing is locking out spark advance when removed.

 

Check the connectors in the plug the spout contacts slide into.

I had set my timing and noticed the power was down. I drove the truck for a while before investigating, as I don't use it as a daily driver.

I got to looking, and the female connector in the plug got pushed partially out the back of the plug when I inserted the spout, not making contact.

Basically, I had been driving the truck with the timing at a set state instead of it advancing when it needed to.

 

Can i leave it out? Could i incur damage if left out?
is the only thing i may have is loss of power?

 

It *should* idle just fine, if you leave it out. It's going to drive like garbage, because you'll have no ignition advance.

 

Yep. You'll give up a lot of power by doing so, and it probably won't like to turn much rpm, but it should start and idle completely fine with it removed.

 

Mine started and idled just fine with the spout plug in messed up. Just no power above 2000 rpm.

 

anyone know how to run a new set of wires to replace this faulty set? A diagram would be helpful as I have little knowledge with this sorta thing.

Well it continues. I tested it this morning in at 32 degrees no luck same dam no turn over. Grrrrr

 

Wait, the starter isn't even spinning the crank when this issue occurs? Previous posts made it sound like it was at least turning over, but that you weren't getting ignition or fuel (it wasn't starting).

Are you just looking for a plug wire diagram for a 4.9L?

 

Yes it is turning over the starter is new-ish. I am looking for a ignition wire diagram.
I messed with the dummy ecm that is part of the relocation kit I installed 4 or more months back. it ran this morning at 24 degrees. It is on a 90 day probation lol. I noticed when I had the key in and on and I messed with the ecm connector that goes into the dizzy it would either prime the fuel pump or something in the dizzy would make a noise. I sprayed contact cleaner in the connector. I also took off the dummy ecm and just reinstalled it. I noticed that the back screw near the engine block was just spinning. I am thinking it maybe stripped. I don't know how as it seems a tad shorter than the one that came with the ecm dummy kit. If it happens again I will use the bolt from the dummy kit.

 

What is this "dummy ECM" kit you're referring to? Have a link or more details?

Here's a plug wire diagram.

 

http://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/ MK3 kit
My ecm failed twice and i found out info on how its a design flaw due to the excess heat from the engine.

 

ECM is the Engine Control Module (ECM), aka EEC, that is mounted inside the cab of the truck. That kit is for the Ignition Control Module (ICM). Two completely different parts and functions.