I don't know about your truck, but my '87 has two ground wires at the rear of the fuse box that tend to rust. Those were moved in later years to I believe is behind the right and left kick panels, close to the floor.

Here are two pictures of mine as I was cleaning those grounds. There are also one or two on the radiator support next to the passenger headlight, one under the hood, close to the heater box, and I think one on the drivers side.

 

New does not mean good anymore. I have bought weak parts in the past. But hopefully the starter is fine, what about that battery? Age, CCA, group size, etc Just tossing ideas out as I have seen all sorts of wrong batteries in vehicles over the years. Last '93 I looked at had a small car battery installed in it! Wallmart also has various CCA of the Group 65 too I have noticed, must be a cost thing and a regional. Their 850CCA are hard to find when in way south Texas.

Figure 150-170psi cold on that 4.9. I think Ford rated it at 8.8:1 static, but who knows really depending on how far in the hole the piston is and the CC of the chambers.

 

yeah i cleaned my grounds and upgraded others.
Thanks

 

Thanks for the suggestions. the battery is 850cca its a walmart brand.
The heatgun was a bust. next the code reader. its just so dam weird once its 54f or so its runs below 48f or so it doesn't. very odd.

 

It the truck a manual or auto transmission?
If it is a manual, and it were me.... id have a buddy pull me till the damn thing fires off. If will fire above 50 but not below, it is either moisture in the ignition somewhere or not enough compression and spinning the engine faster than the starter may work.
Heck, idk if it would work, but maybe wiring a trigger to the solenoid and pulling an auto in manual 1st with the engine cranking would have enough pump pressure to then spin the engine with the trans.

 

the codes were the same as in the past year or so 33c 21r 44r 33r 77r 10r 67o. I have looked these up and I had them in the past. I deleted my air diverter valve above the alternator. re-did the egr charismas vacuum tree. Ill check fuel pressure next again. last time is was good 45psi at the low when the gas was pressed. 48psi or there about idle stable. 52ish when taking the gas off after putting it on. I am thinking it maybe my ignition switch under/at the steering column. That or the new bosch external in-line fuel pump. I will figure this out. I am not paying a shop. My truck is a stick shift btw.

 

If you have no fire when cold, it's ignition related. If you have no fuel pressure, then it could be fuel pump or electrical.

Several months ago my truck cranked up fine, ran for less than a minute, and quit dead. I had everything but fuel pressure. Bought a new fuel pump since mine was the original '87 one.

No start up, no fuel pressure. Drat!! Went to checking around connections, and then went to reset the crash switch, or whatever it's called. It was fine. Just for a lark I pulled the plug in connector to it. Part of the connector was melted and the wires were somewhat corroded.

I cleaned the wires and spades connectors as best I could, plugged it back in, and everything works great.

Check that plug on the fuel pump switch, on the firewall, behind the clutch pedal.

 

replaced fuel tank and pump 5 weeks ago, 6 days later replaced same NAPA pump, 4 days after that, started getting 556 code(fuel pump primary circuit fail) apparently my 25 + year relay died with pump.

 

the Inertia switch didn't help. Thanks for the suggestion tho. I swapped out the ecm and fuel pump relay a few days back and that didn't change anything. I did them one at a time. I put the old ones back in. Next to test grounds again and fuel pressure again. after that i will pop some panels off and look around the steering column.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

 

Well, darn.

Try with an ohm meter and see if you are getting start and run power from the actual ignition switch.

Have fun rolling around in the cramped floorboard of these trucks.

 

It was actually pretty easy. I didn't have to move from the driver seat to get to everything. The one I took off was OE or at least 100k old if not the full 329k. I will find out tomorrow as it will be in the mid 30s. I swapped out the new coil next to the dizzy before hand to see if that was it and it wasn't. It was over 55F and still nothing so that is a bit different than previous times. Since i didn't see a clip on the old one i didn't use the clip that came with the new one.

its 10pm and under 50F here. its started woot. i will see if it does it in the morning when its under 40F
**** it still not wanting to run. 37F

 

When you replaced the distributor did you time the engine with the SPOUT removed? Also for grins, remove the SPOUT now and see if it starts

 

A shop did the dizzy as i was pressed for time and didn't have the tools i have now. They set it at 12 degrees it was set at 10` before the new dizzy and it was reset to 10` recently.

 

You may want to check it, the EFI 4.9 has two sets of marks. Well, I saw this when I degreased 300000 miles of caca on mine.

Did you set it to 10*?

 

The shop said its set to 10 now. it runs a bit better when it runs vs 12. I quit i am now thinking its a computer issue or worse a wire contact corrosion issue. I AM DONE. I am not putting anymore time and money into this truck. All my tools are out of it and i will be scrapping or selling it.