1994.5 f250 xlt turbo zf5. 246k. Very new to working on my own truck, or even upgrading. I will be using this truck daily, hauling my machine or delivering material, and full moons I go fishing so some 4wheeling/slight crawling as well.
Lots of play in steering, and pulls both left and right when stopping and driving.
I believe my front axle has been swapped to a Dana 60 kp, and I believe that the rear end from the donor truck was swapped into mine as well. I bought the truck about a month ago and the guy I bought it from couldn’t tell me anything about it.
Here is my front end

I like the height it currently sits at with 35’s.



I believe it’s a Dana 60 kp?

Well she steers and stops like crap, I’d like to get the problems taken cared of. I need to get this truck to its full potential because I will demand a lot from this truck pulling my 16’ dump gooseneck with either my mini in it, or a load of material.

I’ll be either going with a redhead or blue top steering box. Would love to hear people’s opinions on which one.

I want to get rid of the block up front and was told to get a rsk. I’m looking at pmf and just want to be sure I’m getting the right parts. I’m assuming I’d go with the 2.5” rsk?

was told I need a drop track bar bracket. How much of a drop do I go?

Will be going with raybestos pro tie rod ends but am not sure if f250 and f350 are the same? Or maybe there’s a better option? I don’t mind at all spending more for something better for my truck as she will be hopefully pulling for the years ahead. I want to upgrade to some heavier duty, longer lasting , better safety parts.

Need to address the steering stabilizer as well, the dual steering stabilizers aren’t much more money so am thinking of going that route.


Also, my springs both lean to the passenger side and while following from the rear, truck seems to be walking. I’m wondering if the springs leaning are pushing the axle out. What could I do to fix this?

Shocks. I’m thinking bilstein. 4” lift shocks? No? Maybe a better shock for my application?

would love to hear what others think I should be addressing, and even adding onto my list to upgrade. I love this truck, I want to get her going to it’s full potential and safe on the road, especially when hauling.

my rear end



is not sure what springs these are. I want to get rid of the 4” blocks in the rear, I don’t like the wrap at all. What route would you guys go to accomplish this? 4” lift springs? From who? I want to add bags but have a b&w turnover, am researching into that as well.

Any tips, tricks, and opinions are greatly appreciated! Thank you guys very much 🤙🏽

 

Yes someone has swapped a D60 into your truck. I can't tell from your pics if it is a kingpin or ball joint type. A kingpin type will have a cap held on with 4 bolts covering the kingpin. The 4 inch block is standard on the F350 from the factory, the 2 inch on the front is not factory. From what I've read a standard RSK will raise the front by 2 inches with superduty springs, so this would be a good way to get rid of those dangerous front end spring blocks.

 

I swore that D60 trucks also only had two leaf springs too up there and the D50 had the multileaf.

 

kingpin 60
both 50 and 60 had 2 leaves from my knowledge
and ill 2nd getting a rsk kit meant for super duty springs looks lke front is 4"ish taller than stock
otherwise go over axle replacing any worn joints and have rotors turned

 

I did PMF RSK "standard" lift with Superduty springs, and PMF's drop track bar mount AND drop pitman arm. The trackbar mount and pitman arm match the lift. "Standard" lift on PMF is 2.25" or 2.5" from stock; they offer kits with more lift. They achieve more lift with longer spring mounts, not blocks.

I am very happy with the handling and comfort improvements over stock... and so are my friends who occasionally co-drive on long trips. "This is what we thought it should have been like all along". It looks like your rig has stock track bar mounts and pitman arm; those likely result in bad bump steer. It also looks like you don't have a front sway bar, which probably also hurts steering. I recollect folks saying that a Dana 60 under stock 250 springs intended for a Dana 50 is a harsh-riding beast. I'll bet that your current configuration rides and handles worse than stock. Going to better than stock should be a big improvement.

PMF RSK installation is bolt-in, except maybe if you have an intercooler. I have a Banks intercooler, which interferes with one of the 3 mounting bolts on each side for the new front spring mount crossmember. I relocated that bolt on each side, and welded the new crossmember to the frame. If you don't have a large intercooler sitting close to the frame, you should be an easier pure bolt-in installation.

If you go the RSK route, I strongly recommend Superduty springs, and drop track bar and pitman arm appropriate to the lift you choose. Not doing both pitman arm and track bar mount will result in significant bump steer. I also strongly suggest new U-bolts. And to keep helping to spend your money, a stock sway bar to help the track bar locate the axle. The sway bar should be a fairly simple bolt-in.

The biggest problem I had doing the PMF RSK was jacking and stand height. I did not have a lift. You need both high and low heights for jacking and stands. You need to get the frame high enough to fully droop the front springs. That probably puts the front axle very low, way below ride height with tires on. After everything is assembled, you need to get under the front axle and get it back high enough to get tires back on. There isn't a lot of room on the front axle for both stands and jacks, especially on the driver's side. Be thoughtful and careful.

A further suggestion, if you decide to go with the PMF RSK with the "heavy" crossbar and front receiver. The crossbar is only 1.25", not 2" or greater usually seen in dedicated hitch assemblies. I don't think it's heavy enough for full-on use like a winch or heavily loaded cargo carrier. If you go with the front receiver option, I would decline powder-coating and figure on welding in some stiffening bracing. There's plenty of room for some cross-bracing steel, and then rattle-can the whole thing when you are done. Not doing that is the only regret I have.

My $0.02. Your results will vary.

 

Thank you. Mine does have a cap, which is held on by 4 bolts. I’m on pmf right now getting my cart together and looking for super duty springs.

 

thank you. I’m currently on pmf getting my cart together and trying to figure which code springs I’ll be going with. I’m getting my list together for all joints and will order them 1 time. Will have rotors turned as well, thanks again

 

Thank you very much.She rides and handles pretty rough, actually kind of dangerous but speed limit around here is 45 so I just chug along. Yes, everything is stock and no sway bar. Will be ordering a intercooler as well, and will address those bolts when it’s installed.



Question. The standard rsk is 2.25” or 2.5” from stock, drop track bar bracket is 2.5”, but the drop pitman arm is 3”. Should I look elsewhere for a 2.25” drop pitman arm or will 3” be fine? I can only seem to find 3”. Or do I match the drop track bar bracket to the 3” drop pitman arm?



I’m researching into the stock sway bar now. Being new and not having the knowledge, I want to try my best to be sure I’m ordering the right parts.




I have access to a lift, and a buddy who will help me install.



Will ask my welding buddy his opinion on the tow hitch and receiver package with the rsk. I’ll eventually have him build me a heavy bumper and it’s probably smarter to have the tow hitch and receiver welded into the heavy bumper.



For shocks I’m going with bilstein 5100’s. Being that it’s a 2.25” rsk, Would it be best that I go with stock-2.5” lift, or would I be better with the 2-4.5” lift shocks? 4 inch blocks in the rear so when I buy the appropriate spring to eliminate the block, I’ll be needing atleast 4” lift shocks. Should I go 2-4.5” lift shocks right around? Or 2-4.5” in rear and stock-2.5” In the front?
thank you again

 

I'm presuming that you're going to ditch the front riser blocks when you do the RSK. With the RSK's minimum 2.25" rise, no blocks in front but keeping the blocks in the rear, you'll be very close to stock F-350 ride height.

I got the matched set of RSK, drop track bar bracket, and drop pitman arm from PMF. I would just take the matched set they recommend. I recollect that I used "standard-weight" Superduty front springs; someone should chime in with spring codes.

I re-used my stock-height (for F-350) front RSX-9000s on the RSK, and haven't had any issues- yet. If you can get front F-350 shocks for around 2" lift, that should be ideal. But I seem to be getting away so far with stock-height shocks. But remember that's 350 height, not 250.

On the rear, stock F-350s have the riser blocks. I recollect vaguely that the only difference on the rear between 250s and 350s is the blocks, but springs are the same. So no compelling reason to change the springs, unless they are shot. Stock 350 springs, re-using the blocks, should be an easy way to go. Trying to get springs to maintain stock 350 height without blocks may be quite a bit of complication. And you should be good to use stock-length F-350 shocks in the rear.

You may want to check your soft brake lines to confirm they're not getting stretched from the extra ride height from the 250 incarnation.

PMF's RSK without the receiver uses a smaller crossbar between the spring mounts. If you can wait until new bumper for a front receiver, that sounds like a good plan. You probably want to figure on the bumper being a bit farther forward, for better wheel clearance when turning.

The extra front lift from the RSK with new springs is essentially unnoticeable, visually and hoping in and out of the cab.

A lift will make things much easier, and safer. I would do the RSK first, then intercooler. You won't be taking out the RSK bolts, so no problem if the later intercooler prevents getting them in and out.

 

Yes, I want to get rid of the front blocks. From my searching they’re a very bad idea on the front ,and that’s where this whole rsk started for me.



Interesting that with the rear 4” blocks it’s nearly stock f350 height, I have to tippy and jump my way in haha



I will contact PMF first thing Tomorrow morning and go with their recommendations for the drop track bar bracket and drop pitman arm, for their 2.25” rsk.



Have been doing some research into the springs , U seems to be most used, while V or x can be a little too much unless using a winch bumper. Don’t know if I’ll use a winch or not, but I do know I’ll have a built bumper and will on occasion load it. Maybe the v would be a smart idea as I weight 340 and my brother weights around 360 and we usually see a drop in height when we are both in the same vehicle.



Am looking into shock options, I like the fact that I can adjust the ranchos for towing, cruising, or a little crawling. Probably the route I’ll be going.



The rear springs are still good, will take your advice and just use them. The front NEEDS to be addressed, the rears are good to go so no need to open a can of worms.



Soft brake lines seem to be good and have decent amount of slack, but will order the brake lines from pmf with the 3” lift and just change them while I’m under there.



Wondering if I should go ahead and order the rsk with receiver just to have a heavier duty crossbar. Either way I will not use the hitch on the rsk and just have a front bumper built. Will let my welding guy know I want it made a little further forward…How far forward would you recommend?



Excited to address my issues, get things dialed in, and have a SAFE, reliable work truck.



Thank you very much for the help and tips, they have helped me tremendously!

 

Your issue with the front is that it's a bit of an incomplete hodge-podge, and you don't know what everything is. Current front springs may be re-used 250 springs, which are reputed to ride very poorly with a solid axle. Not that the springs themselves are bad, they just don't work well with a solid axle conversion. Track bar and drag link probably are at excessive angles, and not close to parallel with each other, resulting in bump steer. Stock "shackle forward" location lets solid axle wander side-to-side more than RSK "shackle rear" even with track bar, and lack of sway bar doesn't help the axle wander. The blocks probably don't help things. 250 I-beam setup basically doesn't wander, since the I-beams positively locate the wheels side-to-side, but has other issues. So your goal is to re-work the front end to a complete "improved F-350" (ie, RSK) setup. I was very happy going from stock 350 to RSK; you should see a much larger improvement from your starting point.

On the PMF crossbar, the stock 350 setup (and I think 250 also) does not have any crossmember at the front of the frame, just the bumper. So even the "light" PMF crossbar is more frame connection than stock. I suspect the PMF crossbar is there mostly to align the new spring mounts for the RSK, and any frame stiffening is an incidental benefit. I just think that even their "heavy" crossbar is light for the receiver to be used without restriction. And you're probably going to need a receiver extension to get any attachment- hitch, carrier, winch, ect. out from under the front bumper, which will only magnify torsion loads on the crossbar. I used a hitch extension, but also U-bolted it to my front bumper for extra support. If you're figuring on a built-up bumper soon, I would go with the standard PMF crossbar without receiver or tow eyes, get the PMF powder-coated, and then put the receiver and tow eyes on the new bumper.

I moved my stock bumper about 2" forward to gain clearance between the bumper ends and tires when tires are turned, long before I did the RSK. If you're doing your new bumper "soon", and clearance isn't too bad, I would leave the front bumper as-is. Some nice things you can do with a new bumper are build in a wide flat spot on top to stand on, and something like step, ladder rung, or foothold on the bottom to help you climb up. A grille guard loop can be your handhold for climbing up and down. Depending on what you use the truck for, some light-duty tie-down loops or hook holes near the top at center make it easier to tie down things like canoes and ladders. Not part of your bumper, but you have long gutters, so Quick-n-Easy gutter mounts and a pair of 2x4s make a good roof rack.

Your load range is outside my experience, so I'm no help on front spring codes. I usually load light but high-volume (whitewater kayaks and sometimes canoes). I went with the light/standard weight springs and am very happy with the ride comfort.