Line-x undercoating
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 26
From: Bucks County, PA
Line-x undercoating
I tried searching the forum but only found results for line-x bedliners. Does anyone have any experience with the line-x undercoating? Having had other Ford trucks from the early 2000's that ended up with plenty of rust underneath, I'm feeling strongly about having the new truck coated. Any pros/cons I should consider before doing this? Are there any good alternatives for rust prevention?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 606
I have mine Fluid Filmed, they spray the undercarriage and inside the frame. They charge a couple hundred bucks, you have it done every year, well worth it. Wool Wax is another similar product, lanolin based products.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 111
Likes: 4
I had the LineX undercoating done when they did the bed. Seems like a good idea, and it wasn't expensive. Looks like the product is durable and the coverage is good. One thing they told me is the thickness of the undercoating is much thinner than what they put on the bed. I don't recall the number though. This was more of an experiment than anything else, like morehouse, I Fluid Film my chassis. I will be doing it again in a couple of weeks on top of the LineX.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 387
Likes: 273
Let me revive this old thread....
Just had Line-X undercoating done on my new '24 F250 truck (~400 miles).
I realize that fluid film is the go-to option but I kind of liked the Line-X approach. Time will tell if this is/was the right decision.
Line-X's 'system' isn't to be confused with Ziebart's from that infamous "Don't undercoat - Frame will rot out faster" YT video.
They cleaned the underside, dried it overnight with fans, then undercoated it, and then kept if for a few days to start the drying/curing. It never fully dries out like some other products.
I believe they use Valugard 160 and also used "fluid film" for inside the frames/door panels etc.
Once I got it back, I did what I always do with new machinery: CRC SP-400 on all [steel] exposed parts such as hinges, latches, bolts/nuts, etc
Just had Line-X undercoating done on my new '24 F250 truck (~400 miles).
I realize that fluid film is the go-to option but I kind of liked the Line-X approach. Time will tell if this is/was the right decision.
Line-X's 'system' isn't to be confused with Ziebart's from that infamous "Don't undercoat - Frame will rot out faster" YT video.
They cleaned the underside, dried it overnight with fans, then undercoated it, and then kept if for a few days to start the drying/curing. It never fully dries out like some other products.
I believe they use Valugard 160 and also used "fluid film" for inside the frames/door panels etc.
Once I got it back, I did what I always do with new machinery: CRC SP-400 on all [steel] exposed parts such as hinges, latches, bolts/nuts, etc
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,241
Likes: 2,179
there is an outfit about an hour from me that does milspray services...both the line x looking stuff and the oil looking stuff.
the line x looking stuff looks real nice.
I use the oil looking stuff rather than the grease looking stuff mainly for electrical connections and abs sensor non interference. the greasy looking stuff fowls my electrical connections and raises havoc with ABS sensors. dont have the problem with oil based approach.
right now im using corrosionX non HD. it doesn't interfere . with electrical and abs sensors. you can spray it into fuse panels . they claim once a year but in practice it looks like 6 months between coats works best.
the milspray oil based costs about 250 and it takes 45 minutes to get done. plus the 1 hour each way driving gas and tolls. I decided this year to do it myself. 100 bucks for 1 gallon. I used a low pressure high volume paint gun (air less) and between prep time, clean up, and application, took me 2 hours.
the line x looking stuff looks real nice.
I use the oil looking stuff rather than the grease looking stuff mainly for electrical connections and abs sensor non interference. the greasy looking stuff fowls my electrical connections and raises havoc with ABS sensors. dont have the problem with oil based approach.
right now im using corrosionX non HD. it doesn't interfere . with electrical and abs sensors. you can spray it into fuse panels . they claim once a year but in practice it looks like 6 months between coats works best.
the milspray oil based costs about 250 and it takes 45 minutes to get done. plus the 1 hour each way driving gas and tolls. I decided this year to do it myself. 100 bucks for 1 gallon. I used a low pressure high volume paint gun (air less) and between prep time, clean up, and application, took me 2 hours.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 439
Multiple YouTube videos and YouTube mechanics (South Main Auto especially) agree that oil-type annual coatings are far superior to any permanent coating in salty environments. Seems like rust can start inside hollow frame components and spread under permanent coatings.
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