1994 E-150 van fuel pump replacement help?
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1994 E-150 van fuel pump replacement help?
I had it replaced once like 15 years ago. A shop did it for like $750. No way I can afford that now. I'm doing it myself but hitting some snags getting the correct pump. Its a junk van anyway so I cut a hole in the flooring and easily found the pump. Bought the special tool to remove the two fuel lines (still not working and can't get them off but I'm sure I'll find a way).
But all the parts stores websites show a 3 port pump but mine is only 2 lines. How do I know which ports to use and which one to block off? Example.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c..._10039_ss=Rear
Also having trouble loosening the locking ring. Already bent one of the tabs pretty bad. I let it soak overnight with some PB blaster stuff and haven't tried again yet today. Soon.
But all the parts stores websites show a 3 port pump but mine is only 2 lines. How do I know which ports to use and which one to block off? Example.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c..._10039_ss=Rear
Also having trouble loosening the locking ring. Already bent one of the tabs pretty bad. I let it soak overnight with some PB blaster stuff and haven't tried again yet today. Soon.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Don't worry about the picture they often don't match. Soak the fuel line connectors with penetrating oil, insert the tool and grasp both sides of the connection with your hands. First push the connection together while pulling the tool in with your fingers before pulling apart, and repeat this push then pull motion until the connection loosens up. Probably a good idea to wear gloves when doing this because it will surprise you when it comes apart, and there is lots of potential to skin knuckles or otherwise cut yourself when that happens.
The locking ring can be a beast, try to work it around using all the tabs and lots of lube. The new pump will come with a locking ring in most cases.
The locking ring can be a beast, try to work it around using all the tabs and lots of lube. The new pump will come with a locking ring in most cases.
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So I just bought a plastic set similar to that, not quite the same probably. Still no dice, they simply don't reach deep enough into the socket to even counter any resistance. Getting irritated at this whole job now TBH.
Edit to add: WTF did i just read in a different thread about an inertia switch???????????????
I drove through some MASSIVE puddles the night before this fuel pump when out, big waves of water on the passenger side of the car! Did I just cut a hole in my van floor for nothing.....?
Edit to add: WTF did i just read in a different thread about an inertia switch???????????????
I drove through some MASSIVE puddles the night before this fuel pump when out, big waves of water on the passenger side of the car! Did I just cut a hole in my van floor for nothing.....?
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The inertia switch is inside the passenger compartment on the passenger side kick panel, it is usually only tripped when the vehicle collides with something but it's worth a look.
If you cut the collar part off one of those plastic tools you may be able to push it in far enough with the other tool to disconnect the lines.
If you cut the collar part off one of those plastic tools you may be able to push it in far enough with the other tool to disconnect the lines.
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Ok I checked that inertia switch and I guess it looks fine. I finally got the fuel lines off the pump after I had to construct my own tool out of several layers of plumbers tape wrapped around each other. What a bitch.
It just occurs to me that I've checked the fuel relay switch but haven't looked at any fuses. Is there a certain fuse I should check first before I rip the pump all the way out?
https://static.cargurus.com/images/s...-1600x1200.gif
I checked that fuse, and I pulled the relay out and I can make it click with my multimeter so I guess its all good? Is that the only thing I need to check?
Update. Took the pump out anyway lol. Checked the 4 electrical nodes and there is continuity between the pairs that I assume are supposed to be good. Am I going about all this the wrong way? Is there more to test on this pump before I go buy another one?
Is this something that would work? I know its not the entire device but is this the "functioning" portion I could get away with just buying? I feel like this isn't the only thing I need and I might need the whole assembly and say screw it.
Or do I need this? My tank is in front of the axle, its a big long tank. This pump says its for "midship" tank. Mine seems to be midship lol.
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...947/342565_0_0
It just occurs to me that I've checked the fuel relay switch but haven't looked at any fuses. Is there a certain fuse I should check first before I rip the pump all the way out?
https://static.cargurus.com/images/s...-1600x1200.gif
I checked that fuse, and I pulled the relay out and I can make it click with my multimeter so I guess its all good? Is that the only thing I need to check?
Update. Took the pump out anyway lol. Checked the 4 electrical nodes and there is continuity between the pairs that I assume are supposed to be good. Am I going about all this the wrong way? Is there more to test on this pump before I go buy another one?
Is this something that would work? I know its not the entire device but is this the "functioning" portion I could get away with just buying? I feel like this isn't the only thing I need and I might need the whole assembly and say screw it.
Or do I need this? My tank is in front of the axle, its a big long tank. This pump says its for "midship" tank. Mine seems to be midship lol.
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...947/342565_0_0
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
The one from Amazon will work OK.
The Autozone one will not work.
Did you ever ground pin #6 of the EEC red self-test connector and turn on the key to the run position to see if the pump reuns.
Attachment 277922
/
The Autozone one will not work.
Did you ever ground pin #6 of the EEC red self-test connector and turn on the key to the run position to see if the pump reuns.
Attachment 277922
/
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
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Hey sub great to see you again! You've helped me several times before. I was finally able to get the fuel lines off by making my own tool from some plumbers tape hahah.
Anyway I have not checked that self test plug as you said. Imma go do that now.
I already got the fuel pump out, but if autozone doesnt have the right pump in stock im screwed i guess. Maybe I'll have to call around a couple local stores.
Edit. How to "ground" the connector? Is this similar to the paper clip trick for resetting the error codes thingy?
Anyway I have not checked that self test plug as you said. Imma go do that now.
I already got the fuel pump out, but if autozone doesnt have the right pump in stock im screwed i guess. Maybe I'll have to call around a couple local stores.
Edit. How to "ground" the connector? Is this similar to the paper clip trick for resetting the error codes thingy?
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Also Sub, we had a very heavy rain the day before all this happened and I went through some major puddles. Im seeing some threads on a different website about the computer connections be damaged from water. Could that be a problem for me? I went through a lot of trouble to get this fuel pump out already lol. But I don't care if I have to throw it back in and do more testing first. Is there a way for me to test the pump right now while its out, just to make sure? Then I can throw it back in and test the other things?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
As far as testing the pump while it is out you can run wires from the battery to the pump to test to see if it will run.
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1. Can I hook up the pump electrical, without connecting the fuel lines, and test it using the jumper method? This way I don't have to remove all the fuel lines again, I'll at least know if the pump will make that whiring sound that it usually makes? Or do have to basically reinstall the pump, fuel lines and all?
I dont have wire laying around to run from the battery to the pump i think.
2. Did you see my other comment about the computer thing? I ran through some crazy puddle the night before this pump stopped responding....
I dont have wire laying around to run from the battery to the pump i think.
2. Did you see my other comment about the computer thing? I ran through some crazy puddle the night before this pump stopped responding....
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From: Easton,Ks
1. yes you can hook up the pump electrical without connecting the fuel lines,
Just run it for a second or two so you do not over heat it. Just see if it runs.
2. Some times water gets in the PCM computer connector and the PCM computer will let out smoke.
Then you will need to replace it as replacing the caps will not help.
Just run it for a second or two so you do not over heat it. Just see if it runs.
2. Some times water gets in the PCM computer connector and the PCM computer will let out smoke.
Then you will need to replace it as replacing the caps will not help.