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Sorry my error.
The wire from pin#2 goes through the PCM and then to Neg post of the battery.
It did not dawn on me that power from other places going to ground through pin #40 & #60 would change the ohm reading to ground.
As long as you get near zero ohms with the key off doing the test pin #2 to NEG post the PCM should have a good ground.
OK no worries thanks. Is there still more testing to be done or do i pull the PCM now?
It looks very buried and inaccessible. Do I have to remove the fender to access from the bottom instead? I've seen that mentioned somewhere I think.
It looks like time to pull it out with a 10mm socket.
No it comes out under the hood in the center of the dash.
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Got it thanks.
Results of suggested test:
1. There is ground using continuity test on multimeter at pins 20, 40,60. Key was in off position, black lead was on battery neg post and red lead was inserted into the PCM connector at the corresponding chart locations.
2. Then set multimeter to voltage instead of continuity, turned key to on position. Connected black lead on multimeter to neg battery post, red lead inserted into chart positions for 37 and 57. There is 11.8 volts at pins 37 and at 57. Key in on position
3. Did the same thing for Pin #2. It shows less than 1 volt. Key in on position
Shouldn't pin #2 have 12 volts with key in on position? Anyway heres the board. TBH it doesn't show massive signs of damage to my eyes but what do I know? Last photo is lame because I zoomed in on phone. Just wanted to show that capacitor. Slightly oiled/black side to it, but the solder and legs on the bottom look ok
Shouldn't pin #2 have 12 volts with key in on position? Anyway heres the board. TBH it doesn't show massive signs of damage to my eyes but what do I know? Last photo is lame because I zoomed in on phone. Just wanted to show that capacitor. Slightly oiled/black side to it, but the solder and legs on the bottom look ok.
Those 2 blue caps are toast, and they've been leaking. And there's obviously been water inside the case, and on the board. Time for a replacement, recapping, or sending it out to have somebody rework it.
Those 2 blue caps are toast, and they've been leaking. And there's obviously been water inside the case, and on the board. Time for a replacement, recapping, or sending it out to have somebody rework it.
Yo will this part work? I mean, its autozone so at least i can return it. Ebay parts might be a bit more sketchy IDK?
My PCM part number is F4TF-12A650-NA
This part from autozone states fits F4TF and california emissions, which......I'm in California so yay....
I am absolutely the wrong guy to ask about whether it will work, especially when you throw california emissions into the mix. But there are plenty of guys here that know a heck of alot more about which ECM will work in which application, than I do.
Oh, and ECM, PCM, ECU, CPU, and about a half dozen different acronyms are all describing the same thing.
I do not see ECM in the link you posted.
Did you mean OEM?
Not sure if it was ever really called ECM by FORD but the name EEC was changed to PCM in 1993.
It had been called EEC from at least 1983 to 1992.
OK it took 4 days to arrive but I got the new ECM from autozone link. Shipped from somewhere in San Diego.
I plugged it in and turned the key and the fuel pump spun right up. So I fully installed it into its slot, put the fuel pump back down into the tank and in 10 seconds of cranking or so, the van started up.
I drove it a little bit. Seems to run smoother if Im honest lol, but maybe placebo effect. I'm pretty familiar with every little sputter and shake of this old thing. So I guess thanks to everyone for all the help on this issue.
One last issue though, maybe deserves its own thread but nah.
Why do my windshield wipers come on and do 4-5 swipes every single time I turn the key? Its been doing it for years. At first it was only during the cold months that it would do it, but recently its even doing it during the summer time. Where do I start for troubleshooting this issue?
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