When the government mandated ULSD, those of us with the older 7.3l Powerstrokes lost some of the lubricity in the fuel. My excavation contractor recommended adding 6 oz ATF/10 gal fuel to add back in some lubricity lost to keep fuel system and injectors running properly with the new USLD - he does this on all his CATs. I have 400,000+ miles on my 7.3l with no injector issues adding AFT and Stanadyne additive with every fill up. I have a new 6.7l scheduled for production next month. I am wondering if anyone runs this combination of additives with the new diesel engines? With the issues I've heard of with the CP4 fuel pumps I figured some extra lubricant may not hurt but unsure if there would be any complications with the new emissions systems?

 

NO don't need anything in the 6.7. There is no issues with the CP4 fuel pumps. Don't add 2 stroke oil ether. I only add Cetain to my fuel and mostly when I tow. Most of the time I forget to add it. 75,000 miles and not a single fuel issue. Buy good fuel from high traffic diesel usage and you will get fresh fuel. I don't even drain my fuel filter to check for water. There is a sensor in therer. The truck tells me when to replace my fuel filters. From the 15 and newer trucks the 6.7 is rock solid. Some issues with the DEF system but mine has had some issues but nothing I cant fix. I only use fill synthetic oil and I highly recommend that.

 

Not really a good idea to add ATF to the fuel tank. If you live in an area with smog police and roadside checks you might end up with up to a $10,000.00 ticket! Non-taxed diesel is colored red to let the inspectors know that there is no road tax applied to the fuel. I know a guy in California that tried to fight the ticket he got because he used marvel mystery oil as an additive, which is also red. The judge asked him if his fuel was red in his tank, his answer has yes, judge said pay the fine, $10,000.00. No recourse no appeal, red fuel used on public road means you skipped paying road tax big fine. No worth it use the right additives.

Smokeploe

 

I would not add oil of any type to the fuel. The atf/oil can cause issues with the DPF and soot. I would use a lubricity formula from the likes of Stanadyne or Opti-lube, etc.

 

My opinion

no to atf

yes to lube additives such as opti-lube

use caution with cetane boost check for alcohol

two stroke oil is more expensive than a dose of diesel lube.

The 128:1 notion has no basis. There’s no two stroke lube value to the extent that wear test show any improvement until you get to 40:1. At that ratio, very expensive

b5 has very good lube value.


there’s no problem with cp4 pumps, until you put service station diesel that had been contaminated with gas, water, algae, and other snots in it into your tank.

there are post all the time that folks say..,urban legend.. drive it and go.. you will never have a problem.,,,,AND at the same time…you can find active and current threads about even new trucks with cp4’s having fuels system failure due to service station contamination.

a DPK will help in most cases….but for severe fuel system contamination…due to the direct injector damage from fuel contamination….DPK are some times not enough.


the newer cp4 have more aggressive cam lobes to provide more fuel pressure and the evidence of recent post indicate those aggressive cam lobes are more susceptible to fuel related damage.

 

Tranny Fluid. 2 stroke Oil etc were all 1990's methods to help out older diesels that had first generation fuel pumps and injectors. Your 7.3L engine did not have a Common Fuel Rail that is running at 30,000 psi. If you want to downgrade your engine from 475 hp to a 250 hp convert it to an old style fuel pump and injectors. Then you can use old school products. But as long at you have a 2022 technology fuel system, Stick products designed for it.

As Fritz says. There is no cost savings to buy unproven old wives tale additives vs buying a product designed for todays common rail fuel systems

 

Thanks for all the replies - That is the information I was looking for. I don't run any additives other than Stanadyne in my newer CAT's with Tier 4 diesel engines - cold here -30's or lower in the winter. Old school 7.3l diesel guy - no emission testing up in the mountains and current truck is pre emissions requirements anyway. Time to learn the new 6.7l. Looking forward the the double the horse power and 2.5x torque with my new truck. My '97 sees a lot of heavy towing over the Colorado passes and some more power will be nice.

 

You are going to like the upgrade to the 6.7L pulling and descending those grades. If you like understanding what you own, there is a lot to learn. Keep that '97 too, though!

For what it's worth, I make it a point to find quality looking fuel stations and have only used Motorcraft PM-22-A. So far, my truck has made it 120,000 miles and 11 years.

Although all of the Shell stations in my area have now changed pump labeling to "not a Shell product" at the diesel islands.

Some fuel additives are good, some are not which has caused for plenty of discussion here over the years.

 

I'm definitely keeping the '97. 400,000 miles and still strong. I get a new truck every 25 years '72, '97 and now '22 ;-) I still have them all! I do a lot more towing of heavy trailers now for my business and over the longer distances I want a new more comfortable F350 with more power. Never owned an automatic - to me that is a downside of the new truck but maybe not - I'll get used to it. The '97 will stay my local work truck and the '22 will be more my haul vehicle and distance truck. Funny thing is, when I'm on the road with my '97 people stop me and offer to buy it for more than I payed for it when I had it custom built by Ford. Thanks again for the input everyone!

 

You'll quickly adjust to the auto but I use manual mode a lot when towing once on the highway. You can also lock out the upper gears if necessary in D to avoid the gear hunting on rolling hills while dragging weight. It would be neat if the TCM tracked gear selector hours, my 6R140 has spent a lot of time in M.

 

I drive my wife's automatic in manual a lot of the time over the passes. Figured it would be the same with the new 6.7l 10 speed.

 

haha I didn't know that. I have been changing my fuel filters ever 10k just to keep em fresh. I feel like its 'cheap' insurance, but maybe I am overdoing it?

 

Nice truck. Check my sig...

JMO...

I've been using K100D religiously since my truck has been new. Many here have cautioned me because it contains alcohol. It does contain a lubricity improver as well as other functions.

At 81.5k miles, I believe it's not harming my fuel injection. I'll leave it there.

I always fuel up at a carwash here where I've talked to the fuel manager as they test their diesel fuel twice daily I believe.

Definitely no to an old school trick in a new school truck like the others have said.

 

I religiously was using the 'full torque' additive and have recently switched over to driven racing fuel additive. I now have 116k on my truck and not a hiccup. I also change my filters every 10k not sure if that helps or not. Have been thinking about an aftermarket pump/filter combo but I just haven't thought it was important enough to worry about just yet.

 

It depends on the trim and year for the reminders. My 2011 basic screen XLT only has the IOLM and reminds of an oil change. It does not and has never notified of coolant or fuel filter checks.

Change filters every 15k unless previous changes indicate earlier is necessary such as lower quality fuel in your area leading to algae or other gunk on your DFCM filter. For my pickup, I change fuel filters every other oil change and the oil monitor generally notifies around 7,500 miles.