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I religiously was using the 'full torque' additive and have recently switched over to driven racing fuel additive. I now have 116k on my truck and not a hiccup. I also change my filters every 10k not sure if that helps or not. Have been thinking about an aftermarket pump/filter combo but I just haven't thought it was important enough to worry about just yet.
Appreciate the info... I change my fuel filters every third oil change (let the truck tell me when to change) or by the max of 22.5k miles as stated in the factory manual. I only use Motorcraft filters. I watch the fuel pressure from the DFCM at the HPFP on my Banks iDash. I only see a drop of 2 to 4 psi over the life of the fuel filters. When new, I see 84 to 86 psi. As the miles pile up, it only drops a few points or so. I do have a Air Dog to install (will keep the DFCM, just bought extra fittings needed to retain it as the model Air Dog sells now is meant to replace the DFCM. It's also adjustable, I bought a fuel pressure sensor to adjust it to 10 psi (the older models were set for 10 psi when used with factory DFCM) for install). I also have a S&S DPK 2nd gen kit to install.
Edit
I've never seen algae or anything bad on the primary filter.
Last edited by Overkill2; Oct 26, 2021 at 06:03 PM.
Reason: add to post
The attached PDF is my source of the 15k interval but this document is old and was issued near the beginning of KTP building the 2011 job 1 trucks. I chose to follow special duty for fuel, likely based on recommendations on FTE.
Also attached is fuel trash example which is why your results may vary and make within spec decisions you feel is best for your vehicle.
You'll quickly adjust to the auto but I use manual mode a lot when towing once on the highway. You can also lock out the upper gears if necessary in D to avoid the gear hunting on rolling hills while dragging weight. It would be neat if the TCM tracked gear selector hours, my 6R140 has spent a lot of time in M.
Originally Posted by fridgeddiesel
I drive my wife's automatic in manual a lot of the time over the passes. Figured it would be the same with the new 6.7l 10 speed.
One of my favorite features is the ability to leave the transmission in the auto mode while locking out higher gears for downhill grades. I've gotten to know whether I need to just lock out 6th gear or lock out 6, 5, and 4th gear for a certain speed. I don't have a good exhaust brake like later models got, so picking gears is a little more important. You'll like the ease at which you can lock out gears.
It depends on the trim and year for the reminders. My 2011 basic screen XLT only has the IOLM and reminds of an oil change. It does not and has never notified of coolant or fuel filter checks.
Change filters every 15k unless previous changes indicate earlier is necessary such as lower quality fuel in your area leading to algae or other gunk on your DFCM filter. For my pickup, I change fuel filters every other oil change and the oil monitor generally notifies around 7,500 miles.
Originally Posted by kper05
The attached PDF is my source of the 15k interval but this document is old and was issued near the beginning of KTP building the 2011 job 1 trucks. I chose to follow special duty for fuel, likely based on recommendations on FTE.
Also attached is fuel trash example which is why your results may vary and make within spec decisions you feel is best for your vehicle.
What is in that filter? I think I am going to just stick with the 10k filter changes. Makes it easy for me. I change my oil every 10k and my oil filter every 5k.
What is in that filter? I think I am going to just stick with the 10k filter changes. Makes it easy for me. I change my oil every 10k and my oil filter every 5k.
Some sort of algae was my assumption but I eventually narrowed it to a specific Shell station I was using a lot years ago so I avoid that station (problem went away completely). That station has good turn over but their tanks are full of crap and use mesh fencing for pump filters I guess.
One of my favorite features is the ability to leave the transmission in the auto mode while locking out higher gears for downhill grades. I've gotten to know whether I need to just lock out 6th gear or lock out 6, 5, and 4th gear for a certain speed. I don't have a good exhaust brake like later models got, so picking gears is a little more important. You'll like the ease at which you can lock out gears.
I don't even use my EB anymore. I'm the same way with knowing what gear to be in on my way home from work. I just lock out gears also.
I don't even use my EB anymore. I'm the same way with knowing what gear to be in on my way home from work. I just lock out gears also.
You would if you had a bunch of weight behind you. I don't use mine often but do use it just about everytime i pull the camper.
Many times going to my favorite campsites there are grades with tight curves and the roads are usually narrow so very slow speeds are required. I use tow/haul mode in D then when needed, engage the exhaust brake at the top of a grade and tap the brakes once and the truck will do the rest without needing the foot brake again. Occasionally to much speed will be scrubbed off, in that case I disengage the exhaust brake to pick up more speed, the re-engage when needed all while keeping my feet off the pedals.
You would if you had a bunch of weight behind you. I don't use mine often but do use it just about everytime i pull the camper.
Many times going to my favorite campsites there are grades with tight curves and the roads are usually narrow so very slow speeds are required. I use tow/haul mode in D then when needed, engage the exhaust brake at the top of a grade and tap the brakes once and the truck will do the rest without needing the foot brake again. Occasionally to much speed will be scrubbed off, in that case I disengage the exhaust brake to pick up more speed, the re-engage when needed all while keeping my feet off the pedals.
Oh yeah, I'm sure of that. Having a bunch of weight push the truck down the hill would necessitate the use of the EB. I've already had a "oh schitt" moment when I hauled my buddy's food trailer down the hill that runs off the road I live on as I did not do my HW when it came to hauling a trailer downhill. This hill is so steep that if you are coming down it, which I don't personally as it's not on my way, You would have to use 1st gear and the engine brake if the road had snow on it. The hill I come down on my way home from work is about the same way but not quite but it has a curve in it. When I came down that hill with the food trailer, it was dry road. When I buy a camper, believe me, I'm doing my research first. Lesson learned. Good point dirt.
two stroke oil is more expensive than a dose of diesel lube.
The 128:1 notion has no basis. There’s no two stroke lube value to the extent that wear test show any improvement until you get to 40:1. At that ratio, very expensive
b5 has very good lube value.
there’s no problem with cp4 pumps, until you put service station diesel that had been contaminated with gas, water, algae, and other snots in it into your tank.
there are post all the time that folks say..,urban legend.. drive it and go.. you will never have a problem.,,,,AND at the same time…you can find active and current threads about even new trucks with cp4’s having fuels system failure due to service station contamination.
a DPK will help in most cases….but for severe fuel system contamination…due to the direct injector damage from fuel contamination….DPK are some times not enough.
the newer cp4 have more aggressive cam lobes to provide more fuel pressure and the evidence of recent post indicate those aggressive cam lobes are more susceptible to fuel related damage.
"Check for Alcohol"....seems overhyped. Even Ford's cetane/fuel additive contains alcohol carriers and many people have been using it for a long time without issues.
I challenge you to find a fuel additive that doesn't contain alcohol....Hint: It won't just plainly say alcohol - you need to know some chemistry.
Ford and Opti Lube both contain alcohols.....never an issue for me with decades of use through high mileage superduties....in excess of 350K miles.
"Check for Alcohol"....seems overhyped. Even Ford's cetane/fuel additive contains alcohol carriers and many people have been using it for a long time without issues.
I challenge you to find a fuel additive that doesn't contain alcohol....Hint: It won't just plainly say alcohol - you need to know some chemistry.
Ford and Opti Lube both contain alcohols.....never an issue for me with decades of use through high mileage superduties....in excess of 350K miles.
This is really quite irrelevant since the 6.7 with the CP4 HPFP has only been in use since 2010 (2011 model year). I.E. one decade plus one year. What we all did prior to that we were working with a different animal.
The only item that's irrelevant is multi decade, although you're being a bit pedantic with that point.
10+ years of use of Diesel fuel treatments (Including Fords labeled brand, probably a "custom mix" Stabil/Stanadyne product) containing alcohol without any proof of damage is with the CP4.x the primary point of my statement.
The only item that's irrelevant is multi decade, although you're being a bit pedantic with that point.
10+ years of use of Diesel fuel treatments (Including Fords labeled brand, probably a "custom mix" Stabil/Stanadyne product) containing alcohol without any proof of damage is with the CP4.x the primary point of my statement.
Well sir, I am sorry But during my working carrer, where just about all communication was done either by radio, telephonre, or some other means of telecommunication; minue details meant everything.
And, since I am an old geezer, and have worked with diesel engines since my Dad bought his first diesel around 1953, I have never been a fan of adding anything with any type of alcohol or alcohol based additive to any diesel fuel. But that is just me. The only two diesels I have ever had fuel system issues with I had drank the kool-aid and thought the additives might be a good thing. Not for me, but you go ahead and do what you do.
The only item that's irrelevant is multi decade, although you're being a bit pedantic with that point.
10+ years of use of Diesel fuel treatments (Including Fords labeled brand, probably a "custom mix" Stabil/Stanadyne product) containing alcohol without any proof of damage is with the CP4.x the primary point of my statement.
Many here have disagreed and warned me about my usage of K100D+ which has no petroleum products in it. It's (what I've been told as I'm no chemist ) organic chemistry made up of compounds. It also adds lost lubricity into the current ULSD fuel amongst other functions. I have 83k miles and have been using it every tankful. It's not like adding dry gas or just plain old alcohol to the fuel. There are hundreds of alcohol compounds. I'm not arguing with anyone on the use of alcohol in diesel fuel, I'm just saying what I do. Everyone's MMV.
