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I did NOT overcomplicate it.
After a thorough cleanout of all material & rust, I just taped it off and applied this asphalt-based roofing tar into the drip rail.
It seals out all moisture from contact with the metal. You do not see it. Done.
I did NOT overcomplicate it.
After a thorough cleanout of all material & rust, I just taped it off and applied this asphalt-based roofing tar into the drip rail.
It seals out all moisture from contact with the metal. You do not see it. Done.
Black Jack: Really, Don't do it. Most auto stores will carry seam sealer. Make sure you clean out all the old stuff down to clean metal first.
Not if you only do one side of a rusted thru area. You can use it first then seam sealant. Most rusted out cab roofs start from the inside due to condensation.
Black Jack: Really, Don't do it. Most auto stores will carry seam sealer. Make sure you clean out all the old stuff down to clean metal first.
As said don't use that stuff leave it to building roofs.
3M makes a Drip Check Sealer made just for this.
It comes in a tooth paste type tube so easy to put where it needed and a cap to keep it good to use down the road.
Rip the old stuff out, treat any rust and drip check seal.
It can be painted over if you want.
Seam sealer would be my next go to b4 the roofing tar!
Dave. ----
Most rusted out cab roofs start from the inside due to condensation.
Right.
And if you use SEAM SEALER or petroleum-base tar or butyl rubber based sealant in your drip rail it will all fail from rust forming underneath it from the inside condensation https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1672639-rust.html
I was finicky and scraped, sandblasted, acid etched, then used master series aluminized paint for the metal. There’s a weld seam in the drip rail that will suck in the paint pretty good ( or water). Seam sealer and paint matched, done. Maybe check that your seam sealer gets lower from center line around the curve to door waterfall so there are no low areas that would hold water. Big PITA but piece of mind.
Sam
Lord Fusor makes a self leveling two part drip rail sealer. You have to have a dual gun to apply it.
I prefer this method as well. Only product I have used for seam sealer is a self leveling two part seam sealer in a special 3m gun applicator that mixes the two part mixture. Don't have the part number handy. Once dry it resembles windshield weather stripping and have even seen it used to repair windshield weather stripping to eliminate leaks and it blends with the weather stripping amazingly well. Those talking about rust coming from underneath need to do proper preparation to get down to bare metal and seal with a good self etching primer and hopefully urethane paint. Good prep work will make this the last area a rust issue occurs. The seam sealer that I'm referring to is also paint able.
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