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Controlling Speed on Steep Grades

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Old Oct 24, 2021 | 11:52 AM
  #16  
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I use "M" exclusively when towing our nearly 10k lb camper. I do not like T/H at all except for braking and I still don't use it. With my 6.7 I can do everything I need between 1000 - 2000RPM.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2021 | 05:04 PM
  #17  
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You guys don’t know how lucky you are to have manual mode available.


no manual mode or ability to select gears on expedition until 2015. Just “D” with tow/haul and “3-2-1” for steep hill descents.


honestly, with his truck and trailer he shouldn’t even have to think about it. He’s towing the same as me with a much more capable vehicle. It really should be a pleasant towing experience with his combo.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2021 | 05:52 PM
  #18  
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  • Start down the hill at a slower speed. At the top, be going the speed you want or slower.
  • Brake in short bursts, not long drags. I tell my wife to set a personal limit, stab the brakes to 5 - 10 MPH below that when braking and repeat.
  • Use a lower gear at an appropriate RPM. Don't use a lower gear a high RPM because you may not leave yourself room for error.
  • Use your brake controller plunger if you need to.
  • Upgrade to disc brakes on the trailer if needed.
We travel cross country regularly and were towing heavy in WY and MT this summer. Just yesterday we were coming down a 8% grade that was 3+ miles long in the Great Smoky mountains with our 5th wheel at ~18,500 lbs GCVW.

Basically, slow down, gear down and short bursts with braking.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2021 | 02:29 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Wbacker57
I recently completed a 4350 mile New England trip. In Pennsylvania we had quite a few steep grades,, both uphill and downhill. Uphill presented no challenge, but I am hoping someone out there can provide me with some best practices in how to maintain control of speed on steep downhill grades (steeper than 4-5%).

Rig:
2020 Ford F-350 7.3L with 10-speed transmission and 3.73 rear axle and 11300# GWVR Package
Grand Design 2500RL bumper-pull - dry:weight: 5,857 (GWVR 7,495). Hitch Weight 581
Equalizer weight distribution/anti-sway hitch
Towing with Tow/Haul mode engaged always.

For grades around 4% we just kept the truck in cruise and the engine/transmission shifted and took care of the speed with no problem.

Issue was on very steep grades - the type where they have the “check your brakes” sign at the top. What is the best approach?

1. Use cruise control at a slow speed?
2. Apply breaks and let the tow/haul mode downshift?
3. Use the shift lever to “M” and use the button to downshift?

The worst case we had was in upstate NY - a half-mile extremely steep downhill with a stoplight at the bottom. We crawled down at 30 mph using approach #2. I think we were in 2nd or 3rd gear on our 10-speed transmission.
Again - looking for best practices based on knowledge of how te engine and transmission work in tow-haul mode.

Thanks!

Warren

BTW - that 7.3L and 10 speed transmission combination was awesome - a real beast! We stayed in cruise most of the time.
I do similar with my old 6 speed in my 2014, except instead of shifting to M and manually changing each gear, I just lock out gears until I get to the gear that will hold me at the speed I want to go down hill.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2021 | 09:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by meborder
You guys don’t know how lucky you are to have manual mode available.


no manual mode or ability to select gears on expedition until 2015. Just “D” with tow/haul and “3-2-1” for steep hill descents.


honestly, with his truck and trailer he shouldn’t even have to think about it. He’s towing the same as me with a much more capable vehicle. It really should be a pleasant towing experience with his combo.

Lol, at least you have Tow/Haul available, I'm dragging a 12K TT and only have the OD Off button then have to start moving the shift lever to drop gears. Pick a suitable lower gear, short sharp braking applications to control speed within a 5/10 MPH target range and enjoy the scenery.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 01:01 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pugga
With that truck and trailer combination, I'm surprised you're having any issues at all. You should be able to use tow/haul mode, press the brake a the top of the hill to scrub some speed and the truck should downshift on it's own and hold the trailer back. As stated above, manual mode works well if you need to force the truck to do something like hold a lower gear on an extended downhill run.
he’s asking about best practices to avoid issue. I don’t care how new or big your truck You can overheat brakes or overshoot a stop sign. Country roads and hills and old farm lanes someone paved one day can set up lots of surprises.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 01:43 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Wbacker57

Other observations/comments:
1. Use cruise control - this approach resulted allowed too much increase in speed during the descent. Then when I braked the cruise goes off and I was stuck with #2 too late in the game.
2. Apply breaks and let the tow/haul mode downshift - I think if I would have done this before the descent it would have worked better. Since I braked during the descent, the downshift sent the RPMs skyrocketing.

The Manual approach done at the right point in time seems like the strongest approach.

Warren
The skyrocketing RPM's is what catches me off guard. This happened anytime I was going down a descent and then started braking here and there. Next thing I know it's winding up and I'm getting stressed out. I couldn't figure out how to get it back out of that lower gear accept to accelerate again and fool the truck into thinking the descent was over.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 02:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ChrisK2001
The skyrocketing RPM's is what catches me off guard. This happened anytime I was going down a descent and then started braking here and there. Next thing I know it's winding up and I'm getting stressed out. I couldn't figure out how to get it back out of that lower gear accept to accelerate again and fool the truck into thinking the descent was over.
I could be wrong but I don't believe the transmission will allow a downshift if it puts the engine into the danger zone. I've had this happen many times with my 6.7l while descending hills and I look down at the RPMS and never has it gone over 3k on a downshift. The 6.7 redlines around 4k.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 02:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ChrisK2001
The skyrocketing RPM's is what catches me off guard. This happened anytime I was going down a descent and then started braking here and there. Next thing I know it's winding up and I'm getting stressed out. I couldn't figure out how to get it back out of that lower gear accept to accelerate again and fool the truck into thinking the descent was over.
You don't have to accelerate. At any time, you can simply deselect the tow/haul mode and this will allow an upshift. Prior to doing this you should lock out the appropriate high gear(s) so you can control the descent. If you are not in tow/haul you can brake without the transmission downshifting. Once at the bottom, engage the tow/haul again.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 02:52 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Brian97439
You don't have to accelerate. At any time, you can simply deselect the tow/haul mode and this will allow an upshift. Prior to doing this you should lock out the appropriate high gear(s) so you can control the descent. If you are not in tow/haul you can brake without the transmission downshifting. Once at the bottom, engage the tow/haul again.
This doesn't always work. There have been numerous posts from various forum members where the transmission gets "stuck" in 4th gear and won't come out unless you provide a significant amount of RPM to the engine. Turning off Tow/Haul and/or the exhaust brake doesn't get it to pop out of 4th gear. This problem is why I have switched to using Manual mode.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 05:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ChrisK2001
The skyrocketing RPM's is what catches me off guard. This happened anytime I was going down a descent and then started braking here and there. Next thing I know it's winding up and I'm getting stressed out. I couldn't figure out how to get it back out of that lower gear accept to accelerate again and fool the truck into thinking the descent was over.
Don’t let the rpms stress you out. It won’t downshift too far, and if it gains too much speed for that gear it will up shift to avoid a redline.

if the Rpms are higher than you want, stab the brakes hard to slow down and then let it hold a lower speed down the hill.

just remember to let them cool down after you stab them. Let them cool down for at least as long as you had them applied. Then just maintain a 5mph +\- window from the speed you want to go.

Gasoline engines are fine in the 4000-5000 rpm window. Don’t let it stress you out. That is their happy place.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 07:15 PM
  #27  
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Until you learn your loads and truck and how all things react together, just select a gear that will hold you at the truck speed limit signs. No muss, no fuss, no stress, unless you are going to stress about the dipstick behind you. If he would have gotten his azz out of bed sooner he would have been in front of you……..his own fault…….not your problem.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 09:36 PM
  #28  
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DeleteDeleteDelete
 
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 09:38 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by HRTKD
Yes, I use the exhaust brake. Since the OP doesn't have one, I didn't want to bring it up and muddy the waters.
Or inadvertently start a gas v diesel pissing contest?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2021 | 09:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by NC Gold Bug
Or inadvertently start a gas v diesel pissing contest?
you just joined this month and you already know about that chit show????!!!!!
 
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