I am starting a bunch of little projects that I have been meaning to do for a while now on a 2000 f350 CCLB with about 250K on the odometer. A quick list most of which was purchased from riffraff. Mishimoto trans cooler, RR billet compressor wheel, glow plugs, torque everything under VC’s, FRX, HPX, Full flow CVD and banjos (although I’m realizing they probably aren’t necessary with my stock injectors), AIH delete and possibly new boots for CAC. I have just taken the turbo off to replace the wheel ( I know some people do it with the turbo in place but I’m following RR instructions) and I’m not sure if my EBPV is leaking. I took a picture and it looks like a decent amount of buildup near the actuator rod. The rod also has some play in it but I’m not sure what’s normal. I also am having a hard time removing the EBPV housing bolts. I tried 5/16 and 8mm and I think they are just to frozen in there. I’m using a closed end wrench but I may be better off with a socket? I have a feeling they might need to be cut off or spun out with a bolt extractor since they are pretty rusted. If you guys think the actuator looks like it’s leaking I guess I would be better just deleting the ebpv all together? Also is there anything else you would recommend while turbo and VC’s are off besides what I mentioned. I will be doing a pretty thorough cleaning of the topside
thanks

 

Up-pipes appear to not be leaking so that’ll save you a headache. You’re doing orings on the pedestal to block and pedestal to turbo correct?


I agree now might be a good time to just delete it I sure don’t miss mine but I was having trouble with it beforehand.

 

OEM donut style up pipes will start leaking.
Upgrading to bellowed ones is recommended.

If you think that you don't benewit from EBPV warmup feature,feel free to go with deleted pedestal.
Actuator rod is proven leak point(it is rebuildable)

 

Consider if you might use the EBPV as an exhaust brake one day - it works very well for that purpose, in addition to warmup. If you do want to delete it, SkyskiJason has written up a simple and inexpensive method.

Recommend removing the fuel line clamp and just leave the line floating - eliminates a wear location. Do this for the fuel line on the other bank as well.




Consider not installing the HPX, and remove the check valve springs in the HPOP instead - it accomplishes the same thing.



Those EBPV bolts are tight, aren't they? I soaked them in PB blaster for 2 days, then used a closed end wrench and a small hammer to tap them free. They need a bit of a shock to kick loose. Riffraff's instructions for the GTP38 360 rebuild kit recommend this method (attached):

"Using an 8mm 12pt wrench, break the torque on all of the exposed bolts. You may find that using a hammer to strike the wrench will be the easiest method to initially loosen the bolts..."

Consider doing that rebuild since you have the turbo out for the wheel.

 

the RR o-rings came with both sets. Originally I wasn’t planning on doing the block to pedestal since I wasn’t planning on removing it but now it looks like I’m leaning in that direction.

 

I soaked them when I got it out and I’ll soak them some more tomorrow. I tried a 5/16 and 8mm and neither fit super tight and I did try tapping the end of the wrench with a dead blow hammer. It almost seems like the rust has taken a little bit of the material away and is allowing the wrench to slip a little. I’ll see what I can do but ive seen a couple of posts where guys have had to cut them off. That seems like it could open up more issues but we’ll see. I was considering taking the EbPV flapper out and filling with plugs, then I could access the exhaust wheel to hold it while I spin the intake wheel loose. Then just get the non EBPV pedestal.

 

I believe the bolts are 12point 8mm. Seems like I bought a specific socket for the job due to the 12 point aspect. Been too long ago though…

I would recommend a cheap set of bellowed uppipes while you’re in there. Those doughnut gaskets will start leaking eventually.

EBPV? Well if you don’t use it then deleting will eliminate a possible leak point. Preferences vary on this topic.

 

Definitely do bellowed uppipes. Only valid reason to put OEM pipes back on is if you need the coin to feed starving children.

Tap the top of the bolts with a light hammer to help break them loose.

EBPV delete is not a bad idea. I rebuilt mine because I wanted to use it as an exhaust brake. And I think it my be leaking a bit these 6 years later.

 

Little update. I tried more PB blaster on the bolts and ran to the store to pick up a quality 5/16 and 8mm 12pt closed end wrenches and sockets but they still just fit a little too sloppy. I’m somewhere between grinding the ebpv flap off and removing the parts from the housing so that I can access exhaust turbine and put my new wheel on plug it and reinstall on a new non ebpv pedestal. That would save me a little time and money. I could try some bolt extractors on the existing bolts and if that goes well I could replace with new bolts, access wheel and potentially put a new high flow outlet. Little more money and more can of worms potential. On the upside while the bolts were soaking I popped the VC’s off, cleaned them, replaced the glow plugs and torqued the injector and rocker bolts. I also finally ordered some tunes from DP for the F6 chip that I bought off a FTE member about 7 years ago and never installed! I’ll probably figure out what my turbo plan is today and place an order with riffraff for my remaining parts. I’m on the fence about their CAC boot kit. My boots look like they will clean up ok and ive done it once before. Is there a distinct improvement with new boots or is there a bling factor that comes into play as well. I was considering just getting the intake inserts and new boots for the intake and keep my oem for CAC

 

I would think you’d want a six point socket for those bolts unless there’s something I’m missing.. you’re talking the turbo pedestal bolts are froze correct? can’t remember the size off hand but the socket should fit tight.

As for the boots I just installed new ones where the spider meets the plenum. Mine were stock and in rough shape. I left the other boots alone they looked ok.

Wouldn’t hurt to make a boost leak detector once it’s buttoned back up. Super easy to do if you want me to walk you though making one I’d be more than happy.

 

no the pedestal bolts looks pretty good. It’s the ebpv valve bolts on the exhaust housing.

 

Wow, that’s a big ask for a socket! With my limited tools and skill set. I might try and Dremel a couple flats on the heads. Use a set of real Vice Grips and some heat. Another option would be weld some nuts onto the heads…good luck!

 

I decided to leave the ebpv housing in place and drilled out the rivets on the ebpv and removed the shaft. That seemed to be a little more difficult than I expected but it’s done. Maybe some newer sharper drill bits would have made it easier. Leaving the housing in place made it a little trickier to hold the turbine wheel still so I could spin off the turbo wheel. After I got it off I saw the 4 bolts that hold the cold side to the hot side so I decided to separate the two sides and clean up the turbo so I can hit it with some paint. Here are some pics of the old wheel and the new riffraff billet wheel. Not sure how many revolutions that poor little stock wheel has made but his retirement is well deserved.

 

Wow those bolts really are in bad shape!

I love the Riffraff billet wheel. Hope you do too.
The plenum inserts are really nice.

Not doing a turbo rebuild kit while in there?

I second doing a boost leak test during reassembly.

 

I’m feeling some peer pressure to do a rebuild now
honestly I hadn’t even thought about it and don’t know much about the process. Is it relatively easy? Do you have a kit that you would recommend? Anything that would involve taking apart the turbine side would cause me to deal with those beat up bolts which I was hoping to avoid. Looks like RR has two rebuild kits for sale one of which is temp out of stock.