EBPV questions
Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 1,404
From: Lake Stevens, WA
Very easy (assuming you aren't fighting rust, darn it!) I just did it - you can. GTP38 360 rebuild kit from Riffraff. Instructions attached.
My rebuild info below.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20100730
I would think you could remove the turbine housing and EBPV outlet as a unit. I'm not sure why the instructions say to remove the EBPV - might just be for ease of removal of the turbine housing due to weight, or for cleaning?
My rebuild info below.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20100730
I would think you could remove the turbine housing and EBPV outlet as a unit. I'm not sure why the instructions say to remove the EBPV - might just be for ease of removal of the turbine housing due to weight, or for cleaning?
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
from the videos I watched I think you’re right. Unfortunately those bolts are a little better than the others but still pretty rusty. I’m soaking them in PB blaster overnight and I’ll try again tomorrow but might just need to put this one back together and upgrade the turbo when this one goes.
Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 1,404
From: Lake Stevens, WA
The shaft should have very little play, maybe just a bit side to side (don't want the wheel to touch the housing), and pretty much no detectable in and out movement (which would indicate a worn thrust bearing). If that's all good, you'd be fine to just change the compressor wheel and run it.
Mine was in good shape, but I rebuilt it because I was into it with 270K miles.
Mine was in good shape, but I rebuilt it because I was into it with 270K miles.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
Likes: 1,455
From: Muskogee, Ok
I had to mount my housing in a vice, and used a 1/2" breaker bar reduced to the 12 point socket. My housing and bolts weren't "rusted" , just light surface rust. Once initially and carefully broken free I grabbed a 3/8" ratchet.
It might sound counter intuitive, but try tightening the bolt and then loosening it. Once you get a tiny amount of wiggle spray your penetrant in when loosened so it can work it's way in.
It might sound counter intuitive, but try tightening the bolt and then loosening it. Once you get a tiny amount of wiggle spray your penetrant in when loosened so it can work it's way in.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 343
Likes: 5
From: Plumsteadville PA
I had to mount my housing in a vice, and used a 1/2" breaker bar reduced to the 12 point socket. My housing and bolts weren't "rusted" , just light surface rust. Once initially and carefully broken free I grabbed a 3/8" ratchet.
It might sound counter intuitive, but try tightening the bolt and then loosening it. Once you get a tiny amount of wiggle spray your penetrant in when loosened so it can work it's way in.
It might sound counter intuitive, but try tightening the bolt and then loosening it. Once you get a tiny amount of wiggle spray your penetrant in when loosened so it can work it's way in.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6,862
Likes: 2,335
From: WV
Sometimes a sharp hit with hammer and punch on the head of the bolt will free them up. Or at least allow the PB Blaster to get in and do its work.
Like BWST said, it’s ok to run it without a rebuild as long as it’s not loose. The reason I mentioned the rebuild is because I did just the wheel then wished I’d have rebuilt while it was apart. I didn’t have any issues but was still a regret so just trying to save you from the same. It sounds like the attempted rebuild may be more trouble than leaving it if there’s no signs of a rebuild need.
Like BWST said, it’s ok to run it without a rebuild as long as it’s not loose. The reason I mentioned the rebuild is because I did just the wheel then wished I’d have rebuilt while it was apart. I didn’t have any issues but was still a regret so just trying to save you from the same. It sounds like the attempted rebuild may be more trouble than leaving it if there’s no signs of a rebuild need.
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