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97 f250hd
I just had my transmission rebuilt less than 3000 miles ago, E40D I believe. I'm having the exact same issue as I was before - it's slipping. I believe that's the torque converter but I can't swear - if I lug the engine up a hill and give it light throttle it'll hesitate like it wants to shift, if you put your foot down pretty good it goes ahead and shifts. I called the shop as it's under warranty but I can't seem to get in touch with them so far.
Part of the issue is unless I'm at like 10-15% throttle (baby it) the torque converter locks in 3rd but anything over that and it locks in 2nd. In 2nd it's just starting to build power then it locks and falls flat on it's face.
I'd like to put a switch in to lock when I want it to - but I would think that something is wrong 1, and 2 - if I put a switch in I have a feeling the transmission shop will make some excuse about me doing something wrong and not wanting to replace it - so I'm holding off for the moment. I was hoping though that someone might have input on this. (I know at 75% throttle and above it's supposed to lock in 2nd or 3rd which it definitely does but I've never seen temps over 165-167)
Mods - TStuner, Intercooler, Intake, 4" exhaust and 3" downpipe, trucool trans cooler as far as I can remember that's all lol
The first thing to do is to get the codes read by a scanner capable of reading transmissions codes, no point in doing the TC lock up mod if your tranny is acting up, you might end up damaging it
I plan to let the shop look at it first still looking at the options before it gets there though
Shouldn't I see anything like check engine or something flashing to indicate a code? Have never seen anything of the sort.
I wonder if my CTS3 will tell me any of that?
Have you tried how it shifts without the tuner?
Did you have the same chip before rebuild?
Yes,chip controls lockup 100%.
Also,TS chip is notorious from shifting issues.
Unless you're just talking about the stock setting - not really. I had issues with the transmission slipping before, it had an edge programmer in it - I thought it may have been due to that as I had similar issues in the past with another vehicle. So I bought the TS-tuner.... I've only put 3-4000 miles on the truck in the year or so that I've owned it.
It's quite a pita to disconnect if you ask me - should I be looking for a custom tune? Or a different programmer/tuner
no on the upgraded injectors, although I have done the IDM mod - I did it last night, started it and such but haven't driven it yet. Planning to put the california fuel pressure regulator in soon to up fuel pressure.
I don't know what TC they put in, they didn't tell me specifically - they asked how much weight I'd be hauling/pulling - I told them I pull a 10k 5th wheel but want the ability to pull more than that, they said okay........ contact with this shop was a bit lacking lol, like they replaced my turbo up pipe and didn't tell me and expected me to pay for it.
Edit: Thinking about it - I asked them if it could handle more power and they said yes - the tuner was in the truck when I dropped it off for transmission work, and set to the 2nd setting which is like 75hp? or something along those lines.
Is there a good place to pickup the Hydra for cheap?
I threw the IDM back in early this morning after waiting for the sealant to dry overnight. I tested in stock mode, 50hp and 75hp setting - torque converter locks the same in all. I wish I'd remember what RPM it's locking at. I will try and remove it tonight or tomorrow and see what difference it makes.
I reached out to TS performance to see if there is a better tune I could have it reflashed to, I would like to get the Hydra, money wise though - it would be nice to save what I have and be able to use it. Very aggravating.
The transmission shop reached out finally - they've had a bunch of people out sick.
I am curious though if the tuner and where it locks has any effect on it slipping later in overdrive when lugging under a load (trying to accelerate with light throttle, not mashing it)
Ever just stood on it from a dead stop and let the thing shift into OD and lock? That will help determine if slipping internally. I would be curious where the RPM sits once it shifts too, does it hang out near 3200rpm the entire time or drop big time? This will help you find out if has a stock stall or low stall...or if you floor it from a dead stop what does the RPM jump to on the tach? Stock stalls are junk on lockup turbo Diesel, never make good use of the power available as you are blowing through the converter usually. Only time a single disc would be acceptable to me is if the clutch material is not stock and the tuning is nearly stock, like a mild tow tune. Torque is what makes the converter clutch slip.
4R100s have a PWM lockup so it slides into lockup versus an ON or OFF that the E4OD is designed around. Any good shift kit I have seen and the ones I have used, allow to change the pump in the 4R100 over to an ON/OFF versus the PWM. Much harder on the clutch and they have more power in addition to being heavier.
A locked converter in second does not sound that bad to me...that is how a manual is essentially as there is no slippage. It loads the engine which helps drive the turbocharger harder.
Glanced at the place you purchased that TS, looks like you have basic old TS canned tunes. I saw nothing stating they custom tune them and reflash TS chips.
My TS was used. I sent it to Gearhead in TX to be reflashed with good tunes. I have no issues with it. Maybe $250-270 into it total, works for my needs at this point.
Good info Hit Man X - As far as the tune, it was an out of the box tune. I would love to have a better tune on it - I'm talking with ts performance now about it. I really don't want to buy another tuner if I don't have to. (TSperformance stated that with a 10k 5th wheel trailer I should be in stock setting as the drivetrain can't handle it - I would think my transmission would be heating up and such if that were the case, and I'm never seeing over 165 on it - plus it was rebuilt but I'm not sure about the TC that was put in)
I have stood on it from a dead stop loaded and unloaded - (from what I've read the computer at 75% + throttle locks the TC in 2nd or 3rd.) It doesn't seem to matter where my throttle position is, it always locks in 2nd when the truck is just building power I would say 2500 RPM or below is where it locks and drops 500RPM and loses what boost I had built (maybe 8psi before locking) Which is my complaint because I don't benefit at all from where it shifts. If it locked at the high end of the power band and gave me an extra gear that would be amazing, but definitely not the case I get 3/8's of a gear then TC hits
I'm trying to find out if stock mode on the tuner effects anything or is actually stock