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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 10:41 AM
  #16  
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Do you have a receipt for what was all installed when it was gone through? There are tons of small upgrades over the years on the E4 before the 4R jump and many of those bits retro back into the E4. Hell, does it even have a shift kit?

Lots of 'transmission shops' just buy from major rebuilders at wholesale prices, mark them up a hair, install them, and send you on your way. That is what happened to the PO of my Expedition, trans works fine, probably has just basic builder grade bits. At least now has a Superior PT4R100 valve body kit and about 40000 miles on it only. The receipt is vague as can be, just states 'rebuilt 4R100' the VIN and cost with warranty. Seriously. That is it. It is there, big tag that shows REMANUFACTURED on it. So definitely not done in the shop due to all the serial numbers on the case.

The reflash of my TS was about $170 shipped I recall. I do not think I would pay that after buying the TS new as you would be nearly $400 into it. Maybe you can return it if recently purchased? If not, I am sure someone would buy it at a discounted price for $125-175. Mine slipped through the cracks for around $100.

All I can recommend is to unplug the thing and do more testing. What sort of max boost are you seeing on a 'stock' tune if available on that chip. 8psi at 2500rpm seems pretty low.

Any chance you can grab a video for everyone?
 
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 10:53 AM
  #17  
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I can snag a video on my lunch break with the switch in "stock" mode - assuming that's what you're after in the video?


as far as the boost at 2500, I was guessing on the shift point I do know the boost is around 8psi when the TC locks though. I'm really leaning towards getting the hydra, when I bought the TS I wanted to save the money, hindsight's 20 20 though.
Can I remove the chip without pulling the PCM again?

I finally after 4 days got hold of the transmission shop, they said it shouldn't be shifting like that. I've never had the TS out since it was put in but they said it could add pressure to the line even in stock mode.
Anywho - it has a shift kit, a billet torque converter, they put a new pump in so on....... I'm leaning towards the TS tuner causing this
 

Last edited by d2freak82; Oct 21, 2021 at 11:47 AM. Reason: had an update
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 02:12 PM
  #18  
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Hmmm, definitely sounds like the TS tuning. Unsure if can pull without removing, sorry. I think easier to pull under hood than move ebrake...but got me. Six one way, half a dozen the other. Could probably do it in under 30 minutes, enough for a sandwich and a beer.

I like to change shift quality (speed, firmness, etc) internally on older transmissions like these, new ones do not really have a traditional valve body. Just solenoids to control everything, really interesting stuff.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 02:50 PM
  #19  
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Not looking forward to pulling it, but I'll try to do it tonight and see the results.
happy to find out they added some to the transmission though.
I will update y'all when I know more. I may go ahead and order the Hydra but I need to figure out what tune(s) will be best for me
 
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 03:07 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by FinnishStroker
Have you tried how it shifts without the tuner?
Did you have the same chip before rebuild?
Yes,chip controls lockup 100%.
Also,TS chip is notorious from shifting issues.
Just wanted to quote myself..
Never had TS chip but read a lot about the shifting issues.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 03:31 PM
  #21  
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Thanks again for the reminder, like I say - I'll be removing it tonight if all goes well. I'll have to get some advise though on the hydra tunes for my transmission and such.


Just ordered the hydra from riffraff
 
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 05:29 PM
  #22  
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She shifts perfect full stock no tuner, I would guess it's not slipping anymore either
 
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 05:32 PM
  #23  
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List it for sale elsewhere now!
 
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Old Oct 21, 2021 | 06:06 PM
  #24  
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Lol it's already sold
 
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Old Oct 22, 2021 | 01:55 PM
  #25  
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Just fyi - on removal I was able to only remove the ebrake assembly - unplug the chip from the PCM and reassemble until my Hydra arrives. Took 5-10 min, was super easy, no need to pull out the unit unless you're doing it for the first time.
 
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