96 f150 diff.
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From: New Smyrna Beach, Fl
96 f150 diff.
All I know about a rear differential is how to change oil and seals.
My 2wd door sticker says axle-reg and ratio 3.55. What is a 1996 regular axle? I want to go with a 3.73 positraction. What would be recommended for a mildly modified (320 hp or so) 5L with a 4r70w trans? Thank you in advance.
My 2wd door sticker says axle-reg and ratio 3.55. What is a 1996 regular axle? I want to go with a 3.73 positraction. What would be recommended for a mildly modified (320 hp or so) 5L with a 4r70w trans? Thank you in advance.
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It's an 8.8 open.
4.10 gears and a Detroit Truetrac.
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I went from a 3.55:1 to 4.10:1 in my '88. You actually notice it, going to a 3.73:1 is a waste of time. Mine has an old Eaton LSD as the Truetrac was not available nearly 20 years ago. Works fine, just dated tech.
TT is a great unit and would also recommend. I had one in my 6.4 and performed flawlessly.
I would do a higher stall converter first, unless you already have done so.
TT is a great unit and would also recommend. I had one in my 6.4 and performed flawlessly.
I would do a higher stall converter first, unless you already have done so.
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From: New Smyrna Beach, Fl
Thanks for the help. I've never driven anything with gearing as low as 4:10 except possibly a John Deere tractor. I thought it might be too much. My tires are 275/45/R20's all the way around but they're only 1-1.5 inches taller than the original 15 inch. I suppose if I only get 12 mpg what the heck will another minus 2 or 3 matter with 4:10. Have to think about what to tell my grand kids about burning up their precious fossil fuels though. Elon Musk has their backs sounds pretty good.
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How heavy are those wheels? You may gain economy dumping that unsprung weight.
Finally scored DRW Alcoas for my 96. Steelies are around 43lb/ea. The aluminum ones are 20. Yah. HUGE drop. Econ will go up, acceleration will be quicker, etc.
Finally scored DRW Alcoas for my 96. Steelies are around 43lb/ea. The aluminum ones are 20. Yah. HUGE drop. Econ will go up, acceleration will be quicker, etc.
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From: New Smyrna Beach, Fl
I would say the weight is about the same, steel vs Chrome alloy. To absolutely convince you all I know nothing about machine rear ends, to go to a trutrac, do I put the unit in my current diff. housing with stock axles? The only info on my door sticker is 3.55 reg.
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New User
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From: New Smyrna Beach, Fl
I would say the weight is about the same, steel vs Chrome alloy. To absolutely convince you all I know nothing about machine rear ends, to go to a trutrac, do I put the unit in my current diff. housing with stock axles? The only info on my door sticker is 3.55 reg.
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Yes, you would reuse the axle housing and axles. Other parts are swapped. Just the carrier is pretty easy, first time is involved for a regear.
I like FMS gears, my pal with an offroad shop loves Yukon. I would use either. Often you reuse the OE pinion shim upon initial setup for your baseline. Worst part is setting pinion depth and its rotational torque on it. Many are getting away from the crush sleeve, read into the advantages and disadvantages.
Surely there are guys here that do more 8.8s than I that can offer you many tips. I do many more drop outs on Euro cars.
Most toolz required are modest in cost and will last a lifetime if kept safe, like any precision tool. Hell, you may have a few of these already!
I like FMS gears, my pal with an offroad shop loves Yukon. I would use either. Often you reuse the OE pinion shim upon initial setup for your baseline. Worst part is setting pinion depth and its rotational torque on it. Many are getting away from the crush sleeve, read into the advantages and disadvantages.
Surely there are guys here that do more 8.8s than I that can offer you many tips. I do many more drop outs on Euro cars.
Most toolz required are modest in cost and will last a lifetime if kept safe, like any precision tool. Hell, you may have a few of these already!
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