Fuel Pump Install
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 3
From: Tempe
Fuel Pump Install
I apologize in advance because I am sure its been asked, but I tried searching the forum first and found nothing. I am going to be replacing my fuel pump in the next few days. Truck is currently at the shop getting a clutch, ring gear, throwout bearing, clutch fork, and the rear main seal replaced. It should only take a few minutes, just want to make sure I install it correctly. The arm goes above the cam correct? Youtube is usually my best friend but havent found much, and can't seem to locate my manual. Couple bolts into the block, a rubber fuel line, and a couple wrenches to get the metal line off. Am I missing anything? I think I read getting it to TDC makes it easier, but is that necessary?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
When you look at the arm of the pump and how the pump gets installed you can tell if it goes on top or bottom.
No it dose not need to be at TDC.
If you find the arm is being pushed so you can't get the bolts started turn the motor by hand to get the arm off the high spot..
Dave ----
No it dose not need to be at TDC.
If you find the arm is being pushed so you can't get the bolts started turn the motor by hand to get the arm off the high spot..
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 3
From: Tempe
When you look at the arm of the pump and how the pump gets installed you can tell if it goes on top or bottom.
No it dose not need to be at TDC.
If you find the arm is being pushed so you can't get the bolts started turn the motor by hand to get the arm off the high spot..
Dave ----
No it dose not need to be at TDC.
If you find the arm is being pushed so you can't get the bolts started turn the motor by hand to get the arm off the high spot..
Dave ----
I assumed as much. I can obviously also look at the arm when I take the old one out to see where it is warn, I am just trying to gather as much info as I can before I swap it out. Much appreciated!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 3
From: Tempe
Yep it actually wasn't hard at all. Added a set of flare nut wrenches to the tool box as well, so no complaints. Realized very quickly that unless I wanted to round off the nut and spend more time and money, I just needed the right tool. Ended up having to turn the crank a couple times but went in relatively painless. Definitely smoothed out the idle, and I think even made my small dieseling problem much better. I wanted to try and pry the old one open to see just how shot the inside was, but easier said than done. I did notice my oil pressure is a little higher than it used to be? Sits right at the R in normal, where as I want to say it would hang out at the N before I did it. I know these mechanical gauges aren't a good indicator, just a small observation I made.
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