I've owned my x for about 5 yrs. The passenger rear door window has never worked for me. Tried to trouble shoot it a couple of times with no luck. Motor is good, there are no frayed wires, and I do not see any blown fuses. Is there something unique to the wiring of the rear passenger window that isn't obvious at first glance? I popped off the door boot to the pillar thinking that would be it and the wires are perfect

I will add the first time I messed with the repair I was able to get the motor to work for half a second, then it quit. No amount of jiggling on wires, banging on connectors or cusing got it to work again...Maybe I'm not using the right swear words...any suggestions on those would be appreciated too.

 

It should be to required to provide your info when asking for help. They change the wiring in these rigs so if I went to go help and its not in the year range then I wasted my time. Do you want me to waste my time?

For a 2002 first verify your voltages at the rear passenger door switch. Yellow/lite green will be +12v supply. Both red/black and yellow/black should have a solid ground connection. If these check out then we can move to the motor/switch. If they don't then the issue will be in the driver switch were these sources come from.

Now we will check the rear passenger switch providing the above checks out. The brown and brown/yellow are to the window motor. In no press mode both wires will be grounded. Ground to brown and +12v to brown/yellow should be in the switches window up position. Ground to the brown/yellow and +12v to the brown will be in the window down position. If the voltages Doesn't change as noted above then switch will be bad. If this checks out then its time to move to the motor.

Check the power at the motor as seen above when you use the the switch. If you are getting the proper voltages here then motor is toast. If you are not then some wiring is messed up between switch and motor. That pretty much sums it up.

BTW all the windows run off the same fuse so if one is working it is not a fuse..

 

Sorry for the inconvenience, I'm guessing you are an older gentleman and your time is precious.
Switch is good, motor is good, wires are intact, and it is a 2004. Thank you for your response on the fuse!

 

I just tackled the same issue on the same window in my truck. For what it's worth, I unplugged the accordion tube from both the truck and the door and slid it back and forth to visualize as much of the wire harness as possible. Everything LOOKED just fine... and then smoke started pouring out of the boot. I had three wires that were completely severed. Repaired those and everything is good as new now.

Also: if the switch, motor, and wiring are all good as you say, surely it would work...? Given my experience, I'd suggest taking another look at the wiring. Good luck. Let us know what you find out.

 

I had a similar problem on my ‘97 Expedition. Lost ground. Suspect it was in the hinge area but used a jumper with alligator clips to prove it. Then rather than chasing it down in the harness I grounded it with a permanent jumper. Still working 7 years later.
Good Luck
TC

 

This is why years are important. The 2004 switch has two grounds coming in but when you use the driver switch one of the grounds turns to 12+ and the opposite happens in the other window direction. Now if you hook up a straight ground to one of the grounds coming from the driver switch and that turns the wire to 12v you know have 12v going directly to ground. Pop goes the fuse.

You could run it in stand alone this way with the rear switch isolated by itself but you would loose the ability to control from the driver switch.

But all this doesnt matter cause you checked everything in my first post and all is well. Meaning your window works.

 

Gotta be a loose connection or cut wire that I just haven't visualized. These are the frustrating fixes. Thanks for the replies

 

OK wasn't a cut wire. It was three.
never let your own stupidity distract from the obvious answer
thanks yall

 

Were the broken wires inside the rubber hinge boot?

 

They were inside the boot, inside the factory insulator. I chased the wire to all but the 3 inches inside that insulator. The wires looked perfect except the cut piece