2011 FX4
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2017
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Likes: 144
2011 FX4
I am still not certain how my 4x4 functions.
I have the rear axle locker you pull the 4 hi, 4 low, 2 wheel **** out.
Now reading the manual it says I can shift from 2 wheel drive to 4 high on the fly....is this right?
Also it says its automatic, but why do I have manual locking hubs on the front too?
Do these need to be engaged first, before I get the real 4 wheel drive function?
It also says driving the truck with the "hubs" in locked, instead of "auto" can cause premature wear and less mpg .....???
Can someone give me a straight up answer.....leave on auto, or locked and what is the best setting when not needing 4 wheel drive?
Thank you.
I have the rear axle locker you pull the 4 hi, 4 low, 2 wheel **** out.
Now reading the manual it says I can shift from 2 wheel drive to 4 high on the fly....is this right?
Also it says its automatic, but why do I have manual locking hubs on the front too?
Do these need to be engaged first, before I get the real 4 wheel drive function?
It also says driving the truck with the "hubs" in locked, instead of "auto" can cause premature wear and less mpg .....???
Can someone give me a straight up answer.....leave on auto, or locked and what is the best setting when not needing 4 wheel drive?
Thank you.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 47
I am still not certain how my 4x4 functions.
I have the rear axle locker you pull the 4 hi, 4 low, 2 wheel **** out.
Now reading the manual it says I can shift from 2 wheel drive to 4 high on the fly....is this right?
Also it says its automatic, but why do I have manual locking hubs on the front too?
Do these need to be engaged first, before I get the real 4 wheel drive function?
It also says driving the truck with the "hubs" in locked, instead of "auto" can cause premature wear and less mpg .....???
Can someone give me a straight up answer.....leave on auto, or locked and what is the best setting when not needing 4 wheel drive?
Thank you.
I have the rear axle locker you pull the 4 hi, 4 low, 2 wheel **** out.
Now reading the manual it says I can shift from 2 wheel drive to 4 high on the fly....is this right?
Also it says its automatic, but why do I have manual locking hubs on the front too?
Do these need to be engaged first, before I get the real 4 wheel drive function?
It also says driving the truck with the "hubs" in locked, instead of "auto" can cause premature wear and less mpg .....???
Can someone give me a straight up answer.....leave on auto, or locked and what is the best setting when not needing 4 wheel drive?
Thank you.
if they are manual hubs, you need to manually lock them in order for the front axle to be engaged
I would just manually lock my front hubs at the beginning of each winter and leave them locked until the snow ended. Never had any issues.
otherwise, you can just get out and lock them each time you want to engage the 4wd
many threads discussing how they work, mainly older threads. Here's one
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1217795-new-to-ford-need-esof-explained.html
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 301
Likes: 144
if the hubs are really manual hubs, it may be that a prior owner installed them in place of the oem auto hubs.
if they are manual hubs, you need to manually lock them in order for the front axle to be engaged
I would just manually lock my front hubs at the beginning of each winter and leave them locked until the snow ended. Never had any issues.
otherwise, you can just get out and lock them each time you want to engage the 4wd
if they are manual hubs, you need to manually lock them in order for the front axle to be engaged
I would just manually lock my front hubs at the beginning of each winter and leave them locked until the snow ended. Never had any issues.
otherwise, you can just get out and lock them each time you want to engage the 4wd
I got the truck from the owner of a dealership in Canada about 7 years ago, its a XLT super cab regular bed ( 6'6") gasser and it seems he ordered it with stuff that I can't find offered on that model. Maybe this is just another one of those things he did....???
Thank you.
Tuned
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 425
Likes: 44
From: Everett, WA
One thing to mention is that if your front hubs are marked and switch from "auto" and "lock", the front wheels have to be rolling forward a bit for the "auto" to engage. That's where the shift on the fly comes from.
Your boat launch examples is similar to people reporting about being stuck in the mud with no forward movement. The hubs need to be switched to "lock" without the wheels turning forward to manually engage the hubs. When switched to 4hi on the dash ****, the transfer case will kick in.
If the hubs have the auto option, just leave them on that.
Your boat launch examples is similar to people reporting about being stuck in the mud with no forward movement. The hubs need to be switched to "lock" without the wheels turning forward to manually engage the hubs. When switched to 4hi on the dash ****, the transfer case will kick in.
If the hubs have the auto option, just leave them on that.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 10,172
Likes: 1,376
From: Chaz
The auto hubs should be locked on before you get into a boat ramp situation like that. Same thing if you pulling off a dry road to climb a muddy or icey hill.
See people struggling on a boat ramp and you are about to take a heavy boat out? Just lock the hubs incase you need it. Its going to engage faster and not shock the hubs, definitely lock them manually.
I only use 4x4 auto hub function when I see something on a dirt road or in a field that could cause some minor drama. Auto hubs work just fine for that as you are moving along at a steady pace. I assume people up north use them on icey roads too. I quite frankly want to get through minor stuff without making a mess.
Hope that helps…
See people struggling on a boat ramp and you are about to take a heavy boat out? Just lock the hubs incase you need it. Its going to engage faster and not shock the hubs, definitely lock them manually.
I only use 4x4 auto hub function when I see something on a dirt road or in a field that could cause some minor drama. Auto hubs work just fine for that as you are moving along at a steady pace. I assume people up north use them on icey roads too. I quite frankly want to get through minor stuff without making a mess.
Hope that helps…
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 47
Perfect....this makes so much sense. I have flipped on the 4 hi before on the boat ramp when it was really slippery, and it didn't seem to make a difference. I got out, "locked" the hubs, and she pulled the boat out with no problem. I forgot about the rear locker, but I think they would help too, right?
I got the truck from the owner of a dealership in Canada about 7 years ago, its a XLT super cab regular bed ( 6'6") gasser and it seems he ordered it with stuff that I can't find offered on that model. Maybe this is just another one of those things he did....???
Thank you.
I got the truck from the owner of a dealership in Canada about 7 years ago, its a XLT super cab regular bed ( 6'6") gasser and it seems he ordered it with stuff that I can't find offered on that model. Maybe this is just another one of those things he did....???
Thank you.
Regarding your question on using the rear locker, you could always engage it (pull the **** straight out) and see if it helps at all.
I had a 2011 F350 4x4 with the E-locker. I'm in snow country; I tried the E-locker a few times on a small incline on my driveway in a few inches of snow, but it was worthless (just made the rear end slide around). The basic 4wd did the job just fine.
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