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I ordered a F350 (XLT, Super Cab, 6.75 bed, 7.3/4.30) with the Camper Package and the FX4 package. I did it mainly for the glove box sticker, hill descent control, and skid plates. It's going to hold a full time camper and flatbed (1200 dry 2200 wet). I figured I'd replace the whole suspension, because washboard performance is very important to the travel we do. Now I'm wondering what the result would be if I don't. Mainly, will it squat a bunch?
As Senix suggested, need more info regarding camper, truck, intended terrain, etc. Standard recommendation is not to mod suspension until you try what you have in order to decide which changes to make. Throwing everything at it but the kitchen sink is seldom necessary. You probably are already aware that manufacturer's dry weight rating is only remotely related to actual ready-to-go weight with tie downs, turn buckles, and camper loaded.
A 2200 lb wet camper is not going to make your truck squat at all based on the truck and camper I have in my Avatar and signature. I would not think you would need to do much, if anything to your suspension and I would recommend not doing anything until you get it and make a few trips in it. Only then will you really know if you need to do an modifications.
We are getting a Hallmark K2. It’s essentially a Guanella with a creek fill cassette toilet. I looked a Truck Camper Magazine’s estimated wet weights and then added to try to be conservative. I’ve been working with the assumption that it would be 2200 including the two of us, but could be as high as 2500 with a rack, 2 eBikes, and if the deck and boxes don’t net out to zero.
We drive mostly highway miles, because we have to get to where we like to go, and we drive it up and down the ski hill in the winter several times a week. That said, the “where we like to go” is mostly forest road, much of it rocky and/or washboarded, with occasional mild to moderate technical stuff when we have to. The tech stuff isn’t something we seek out, but rather, get through. We could be on roads like this for a hundred miles or more though in DVNP for example.
We air down our current Silverado 1500. It carries a lighter camper (FWC Raven Shell, so smaller and much less water), and wears a pair of Helwig helper springs and Bilsteins. The tires and wheels are stock size, but upgraded to E rated Wildpeaks. It’s much gripper and less chattery aired down. We’re always in 4WDH on long unpaved stretches. We’re trying to improve on that and also assuming the Super Duty will be stiffer.
My recommendation would be don't make changes till you have to. Try it out in stock format before you start throwing parts at it. If anything I would look at tossing the stock shocks and getting Racho 9000's or since you already had Bilstein's swapping to them. 2500lbs is really nothing for these trucks, with that 7.3 it won't break a sweat going up hills, especially with the 4.30 gears mated to that 10 speed.
brochure says it’s for a long or standard bed full-size truck.
how long is a standard bed truck?
Do the insulating curtains come standard?
water weight: 250 pounds (30 gallons)
optional grey tank ?
add 2 batteries: 90 pounds
water heater water weight: 25 pounds (3 gallons)
can you live with an E-W bed?
Be sure to try that out with your significant other before you buy.
You ordered our same truck.
It's a winner.
It doesn't look like you will have to do anything to your suspension except immediately replace the factory shocks. I still like Rancho 9K's as they are adjustable to your load.
I replaced mine in the first weeks of ownership.
You could squeeze the factory shocks together like an accordion, there was so little back pressure in the valving. Here we are a few days ago in the Eastern Sierra @ 8800 feet near Virginia Lakes.
What does Hallmark do about the taller Ford cab?
If you must add to the suspension capability, here is an order of purchase:
1. New shocks
2. Torklift Stable Loads
That's about it for your proposed loading.
brochure says it’s for a long or standard bed full-size truck.
how long is a standard bed truck?
Do the insulating curtains come standard?
water weight: 250 pounds (30 gallons)
optional grey tank ?
add 2 batteries: 90 pounds
water heater water weight: 25 pounds (3 gallons)
can you live with an E-W bed?
Be sure to try that out with your significant other before you buy.
You ordered our same truck.
It's a winner.
It doesn't look like you will have to do anything to your suspension except immediately replace the factory shocks. I still like Rancho 9K's as they are adjustable to your load.
I replaced mine in the first weeks of ownership.
You could squeeze the factory shocks together like an accordion, there was so little back pressure in the valving. Here we are a few days ago in the Eastern Sierra @ 8800 feet near Virginia Lakes.
What does Hallmark do about the taller Ford cab?
If you must add to the suspension capability, here is an order of purchase:
1. New shocks
2. Torklift Stable Loads
That's about it for your proposed loading.
Nice truck!
how long is a standard bed truck?
It will fit on a 6.75 hanging out with boxes to make it look right, or completely in an 8. Since we're doing a custom flatbed though, with the elimination of the thickness of the front of the bed and the tailgate, we can do a 146" wheelbase and still have it completely integrated without encountering any COG issues.
Do the insulating curtains come standard?
Yes, what FWC would call the thermopack and insulated window coverings are standard.
water weight: 250 pounds (30 gallons)
We will have a 30 gallon water tank and a 3 or 4 gallon water heater, but no black or gray tank.
optional grey tank?
We're doing an outside shower and a cassette toilet.
add 2 batteries: 90 pounds
Yes, two 6V AGMS, and solar
can you live with an E-W bed?
Yes, because my better half won't sleep up there anyway. She says I'm too wiggly and I snore occasionally. Dooh!
I have a '18 F350 CCLB 4x4 6.2L XL LT265/70-17 tires that I frequently haul a '17 Hallmark Guanella, often off road.
I did not get the FX4, so came with the cheapest OEM shocks.
I first added Fox 2.0 shocks to the rear, as the back of the truck/rear axle wallowed and bottomed. Helped some.
The dang 4 low beam headlights that light up at night combined with the squat of the 2,000+lb wet camper lead to everyone flashing me when I was running low beam headlights at night. I often have a dirtbike or a pair of MTB being hauled on a rear receiver hitch rack that contributes to squat
I finally added airbags to the rear axle, and am super happy now with the setup, I also added Fox 2.0 shocks to the front at around 20k miles.
Added dual front steering stabilizers anticipating death wobble at it showed up on my '11 basically same truck.
I am super pleased with my rig, it has been from the southern tip of Baja to Canada!
Edit: Just snagged some takeoff 18" tremor Wheels, added Bridgestone LT275/70-18tires. Increased my fully loaded tire capacity more than 1000lb per axle. I put a gooseneck B&W hideaway hitch in the center of the bed. Shopping for a horse trailer based gooseneck toy hauler if they start going on sale with current fuel prices.
I have a '18 F350 CCLB 4x4 6.2L XL LT265/70-17 tires that I frequently haul a '17 Hallmark Guanella, often off road.
I did not get the FX4, so came with the cheapest OEM shocks.
I first added Fox 2.0 shocks to the rear, as the back of the truck/rear axle wallowed and bottomed. Helped some.
The dang 4 headlights at night combined with the squat of the 2,000+lb wet camper lead to everyone flashing me when I was running low beam headlights at night.
I finally added airbags to the rear axle, and am super happy now with the setup, I also added Fox 2.0 shocks to the front at around 20k miles.
Added dual front steering stabilizers anticipating death wobble.
I am super pleased with my rig, it has been from the southern tip of Baja to Canadal
Nice! Looking forward to being able to go both directions, to the San Juan’s, and down Baja.
I think we’ll do something similar. I ordered the packages for the sticker and hill decent mode, not really the suspension. I never felt it would be up to what I wanted from it. I may do bags, but more likely springs since the camper will live on full time.
It will fit on a 6.75 hanging out with boxes to make it look right, or completely in an 8. Since we're doing a custom flatbed though, with the elimination of the thickness of the front of the bed and the tailgate, we can do a 146" wheelbase and still have it completely integrated without encountering any COG issues.
Do the insulating curtains come standard?
Yes, what FWC would call the thermopack and insulated window coverings are standard.
water weight: 250 pounds (30 gallons)
We will have a 30 gallon water tank and a 3 or 4 gallon water heater, but no black or gray tank.
optional grey tank?
We're doing an outside shower and a cassette toilet.
add 2 batteries: 90 pounds
Yes, two 6V AGMS, and solar
can you live with an E-W bed?
Yes, because my better half won't sleep up there anyway. She says I'm too wiggly and I snore occasionally. Dooh!
You have some good advice already from several folks: I fully concur on don't do anything until you take delivery and load it out then see how it performs.
Lets talk Truck camper weights: There are 4 weights that are involved.
1 Base weight. This reflects the raw net weight of the TC without options
2 As built. This is the weight when you took delivery, it includes everything you optioned on it
3 Wet weight. This is the weight with all the tanks full usually at 80%
4 Rough n ready, full fu manchu locked n loaded travel weight. I also call it CAT scale weight, meaning you weight it when your travel. CAT scale is going to tell you the Gross weight + weight on the front axle + weight on the rear axle. This will tell you how muck psi to run in your tires. My weights are 3955 Base weight, 4372 as sold to me optioned. I forgot my Wet weight, but easy, tanks capacity x 80% x 8 lb per gal. My full fu manchu travel weight with tanks is 5990 lbs. Yes, this varies its a weekend trip it's 4 cans of beans if its a 2 trip is 14 cans of beans... starting to smell the coffee? In asking around the TC community, you find full travel load chases about 800--1200 lbs +/-.
I don't think you will sag or drag, but if you do then get a set of stableloads, they will solve the issue and do it properly. I know a LOT and I mean a LOT of people run out and buy, what might be the number 1 selling suspension mod in the RV world...Air Bags. I know many folks buy them before they take delivery of their truck even. I am NO FAN and rarely recommend them and here is why. Most people think air bags solve the problem of sagging. Well, they do but it comes at a STEEP price. First, you have added a modification that affects the suspension as it was designed. Air bags are not organic to the suspension, they are an external device that in fact interferes with the geometry and the performance of the well-designed suspension.
HOW? Look at an Air Bag installed. The bottom of the bag is directly over the rear axle, the top contacts the FRAME. Add psi and what happens? The Frame is lifted and bringing the lower spring pac with it, load weight is being transfers to the front axle group and the angle mass on the rear axle has gone from verticle to rearward angle. None of this is in compliance with the organic suspension geometry.
If you need to fix your sag get Stableloads. They are an organic component to the suspension and they work!
Yes, I have run air bags and I employed them to laterally level my TC, that when tanks were full it leaned to the right and lateral leveling is where they shine. It also only takes a few lbs of psi to level out.
Why do many 18 wheelers run them, do they suffer the same issues. THey run them to absorb the road inputs and give a smoother ride to the box. BIg trucks have very little vertical suspension movement due to the weight they carry you do not have the truckload moving too much, so they use ver short many leaves spring. pacs
Take away is CAT scale while on a trip to ensure you get a good idea of how much you carry and how much is on that rear axle. Pull into any big truck stop, drive onto the CAT scale ramp and put your front wheels ahead of the last line and the rears witll auto be in the right zone, get out, push button and give them the number of your truck (ANY number will do), they ask if its a re-weigh and you say no, drive off go in pay about $12.50 get your paperwork.
Get the PSI/Weight chart for your tire and adjust it to the chart.
Your TC should have a sticker like this when you get it
This is a PSI/Weight chart my tires are circled
Truck, front axle, rear axle with TC loaded not in travel mode, TC when I bought it and no water or load
You have some good advice already from several folks: I fully concur on don't do anything until you take delivery and load it out then see how it performs.
Lets talk Truck camper weights: There are 4 weights that are involved.
1 Base weight. This reflects the raw net weight of the TC without options
2 As built. This is the weight when you took delivery, it includes everything you optioned on it
3 Wet weight. This is the weight with all the tanks full usually at 80%
4 Rough n ready, full fu manchu locked n loaded travel weight. I also call it CAT scale weight, meaning you weight it when your travel. CAT scale is going to tell you the Gross weight + weight on the front axle + weight on the rear axle. This will tell you how muck psi to run in your tires. My weights are 3955 Base weight, 4372 as sold to me optioned. I forgot my Wet weight, but easy, tanks capacity x 80% x 8 lb per gal. My full fu manchu travel weight with tanks is 5990 lbs. Yes, this varies its a weekend trip it's 4 cans of beans if its a 2 trip is 14 cans of beans... starting to smell the coffee? In asking around the TC community, you find full travel load chases about 800--1200 lbs +/-.
I don't think you will sag or drag, but if you do then get a set of stableloads, they will solve the issue and do it properly. I know a LOT and I mean a LOT of people run out and buy, what might be the number 1 selling suspension mod in the RV world...Air Bags. I know many folks buy them before they take delivery of their truck even. I am NO FAN and rarely recommend them and here is why. Most people think air bags solve the problem of sagging. Well, they do but it comes at a STEEP price. First, you have added a modification that affects the suspension as it was designed. Air bags are not organic to the suspension, they are an external device that in fact interferes with the geometry and the performance of the well-designed suspension.
HOW? Look at an Air Bag installed. The bottom of the bag is directly over the rear axle, the top contacts the FRAME. Add psi and what happens? The Frame is lifted and bringing the lower spring pac with it, load weight is being transfers to the front axle group and the angle mass on the rear axle has gone from verticle to rearward angle. None of this is in compliance with the organic suspension geometry.
If you need to fix your sag get Stableloads. They are an organic component to the suspension and they work!
Yes, I have run air bags and I employed them to laterally level my TC, that when tanks were full it leaned to the right and lateral leveling is where they shine. It also only takes a few lbs of psi to level out.
Why do many 18 wheelers run them, do they suffer the same issues. THey run them to absorb the road inputs and give a smoother ride to the box. BIg trucks have very little vertical suspension movement due to the weight they carry you do not have the truckload moving too much, so they use ver short many leaves spring. pacs
Take away is CAT scale while on a trip to ensure you get a good idea of how much you carry and how much is on that rear axle. Pull into any big truck stop, drive onto the CAT scale ramp and put your front wheels ahead of the last line and the rears witll auto be in the right zone, get out, push button and give them the number of your truck (ANY number will do), they ask if its a re-weigh and you say no, drive off go in pay about $12.50 get your paperwork.
Get the PSI/Weight chart for your tire and adjust it to the chart.
Your TC should have a sticker like this when you get it
This is a PSI/Weight chart my tires are circled
Truck, front axle, rear axle with TC loaded not in travel mode, TC when I bought it and no water or load
Fortunately, the scales in Oregon are free. We weigh regularly, and have a similar tire chart to choose the pressures we want.
I’m not an airbag fan either, for lots of reasons, not the least of which is that we use our rig in the winter a lot. The water can damage them unless you make the system even more complex to dry them.
The camper manufacturer recommends Stableloads. In addition to squat, we want off-road performance. We’ll just have to see how it performs and adjust from there.
I ordered a F350 (XLT, Super Cab, 6.75 bed, 7.3/4.30) with the Camper Package and the FX4 package. I did it mainly for the glove box sticker, hill descent control, and skid plates. It's going to hold a full time camper and flatbed (1200 dry 2200 wet). I figured I'd replace the whole suspension, because washboard performance is very important to the travel we do. Now I'm wondering what the result would be if I don't. Mainly, will it squat a bunch?
The picture below is of our 2017 F-350 carrying our old truck camper. I estimate the payload (without people and dog) was ~3K lbs. The truck rode fairly level, and we never bottomed out the suspension, although our truck’s are 4x2 road princesses.
Fortunately, the scales in Oregon are free. We weigh regularly, and have a similar tire chart to choose the pressures we want.
I’m not an airbag fan either, for lots of reasons, not the least of which is that we use our rig in the winter a lot. The water can damage them unless you make the system even more complex to dry them.
The camper manufacturer recommends Stableloads. In addition to squat, we want off-road performance. We’ll just have to see how it performs and adjust from there.
Thanks!
Lots of good advice listed in the above posts. Personally, I'm on the side of getting your pickup, putting the camper on it and going for a couple of voyages before deciding what mods to throw at it. I can't visualize your setup being heavy enough to require much, if any, mods.
Bags are for some and not for others. I have found them advantageous.
For what it is worth, I've had bags on a truck used for livestock and hay, and my pickups. Put the first set on in the 70's for use on a farm and ranch truck. Currently have them on a stock truck (livestock) the 96 F250 and the 2011 F350DRW. My sister has them on her 2015 F350SRW.
We have never, ever had a water or freezing problem with any of them. Actually, this is the first I've heard of that. I've been in Oregon all my life and have traveled from one corner of the state to the other. Been across / forded rivers and creeks that definitely gave them more of a bath than driving on a wet road. Just got back from a hunting trip on the rim of Joseph Canyon between Enterprise and Lewiston with snow and ice and an elk hunting trip in the Coast Range, which I live at the base of. We've been to the Mexican border in Texas and the Canadian border in Montana and N. Dakota. We'll be heading to the Coast in a couple of weeks and Naval Air Station Whidbey Island for Christmas.
All of this to say that we have never experienced any problems with water or ice damage to the air bags or the air bag system. It's one thing I just don't worry about or even take into consideration.
