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I'm being told the twin I-beam is near impossible to align, is this correct? I lowered my F-150 3 inches in the front and it drives ok but not as straight as it did before.
A lot depends on the year and mostly if you have kingpins or ball joints.
Also how did you lower the front and hope you did not cut the coil springs!
dave ----
A lot depends on the year and mostly if you have kingpins or ball joints.
Also how did you lower the front and hope you did not cut the coil springs!
dave ----
Well at least you did it right
IIRC they only make 1 beam for kingpins, not my size so you may have ball joints.
If so then it should not be an issue as it would use the same adjusting parts as a normal suspension.
Thing is I think its been posted a lot, shops dont have the parts in stock and would need to order them once they knew how much it needs.
On the kingpin suspensions the shop needs to bend the beam(s) to get it in spec. and most of the shops have new equipment (read computer) and no way to bend the beams.
The shop that checked mine was that way and after talking to them they knew it had to be bent but could not do it.
I said check it any way so I would know if it was out or not. Only toe was out of spec. and they adjusted that.
I think it could use a little more caster to help the wheels return to center and keep from "walking around" at times but I think the tight new kingpins dont help it much.
Dave ----
edit I see you have a 85 so it would have ball joints so other than the shop needing to get the adjusters of the right size they should be able to check & adjust as needed.
If you look at the specs for alignment of the '85 F150, you will see that the caster and camber specs are not set in stone. They are more of a "depends" thing. Camber and especially caster change with load. Is the rear of the truck lowered too? If so, did you keep the original stance or did you level out the truck? Of course, the lowering kit outfit should have taken all this into account when designing and then recommending installation.
On camber, if the wheels look reasonably plumb but maybe tilted out slightly at the top, they are good as long as they are even. Caster? You're going to have to have a shop tell you if both sides are even. Even is pretty much all Ford specs are going for. If caster from side to side is uneven, they make a kit to adjust one side.
Toe can be adjusted while you are getting the other specs checked. Truth is, almost all shops will be happy to adjust toe. Most will not want to fool with anything else.
I believe the lowering was a 3/5 kit, I did it back in 2009 and am just starting to get back into driving it and working on it. I remember after the install I took it to an alignment shop and they messed and messed with it and said they had to order essentrics(spelling?) and they basically avoided my calls after that lol.
Normal stance is the rear at the wheel well is about 2 1/2" higher than the front. So you went about level. I looked at the Dream Beam website the other day and they brag on quality. You'd think their beams and two 0° bushings and it would be good. The caster should be built in.
An inexperienced alignment tech working on these trucks may end up beating his head against a wall.
Even if a shop won't (can't) work on it, they can put it on the rack and tell you what you have.
Another thing to think about. All our modern vehicles have some version of the mid nineties GM Magnasteer. The steering tightens with speed. Becomes very soft at low ( parking lot) speed. This makes our old truck seem loose by comparison.
Here's what the bushings look like. They come in different degrees, so let the shop order them. The alignment machine will tell them what they need to order.