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Your bed floor rust looks very much like mine, but mine is probably 10 times worse - and all of it in the rear half of the floor, like yours. Yours I would consider patching the individual holes, (depending on what it looks like underneath) but I think I want to section in some large patches in the worst spots, or preferably the whole floor. 1980-1996 bed floors, and I believe 'back' walls, are the same as Dentsides.
A Black 133" wheelbase 4WD Dentside is THE pickup truck of the 1970s!
I was wondering about the floor. I didn’t know that this wide of a year was the same. That should be easy to come by then. Great info!
I’ve got it off and flipped upside down now. The only holes I saw were the rear, that you can see in that picture. But I haven’t looked for any soft spots yet.
Wiper arms? Lift the arm against the spring, and look for a little tab, around where the drive-stub goes up into the arm. Pull that little tab, and then you'll might/probably have to wiggle the wiper arm some to get it to pull upward and off.
When I did my cab swap, (which has been four+ years now) I simply removed the wiper arms, and then unbolted the 'drive-stud' assemblies from up behind the dash. I forget how the wiper linkage/transmission rods attach to the motor, but I detached them too. My linkages were marked for Left and Right, which I was pleased to see during reassembly, after having not made note of which was which during disassembly. With those out of the way, you can unbolt the motor.
Wiper arms? Lift the arm against the spring, and look for a little tab, around where the drive-stub goes up into the arm. Pull that little tab, and then you'll might/probably have to wiggle the wiper arm some to get it to pull upward and off.
When I did my cab swap, (which has been four+ years now) I simply removed the wiper arms, and then unbolted the 'drive-stud' assemblies from up behind the dash. I forget how the wiper linkage/transmission rods attach to the motor, but I detached them too. My linkages were marked for Left and Right, which I was pleased to see during reassembly, after having not made note of which was which during disassembly. With those out of the way, you can unbolt the motor.
I was planning on pulling it off all together. I unbolted everything and then realized I couldn’t get the arms disattached to remove. I’m my mind they would of just pulled right off, if only everything was that easy. I didn’t see a tab but couldn’t get a good angle and gave up quickly before I broke something. I’ll give it another shot today and feel around, thanks!
Nice find .... lots of good looking work going into it too. The rust through on those angled crossmember braces that are placed there at the spring mounts to keep the frame rails standing up against the load on the spring mounts .... easy fixing I think. Might need to look closely at those upper shock mounts too, they form pockets hidden from clear view that can hold mud in place against a frame rail. A lot of the depth you see in the pitting of the frame will go away with the loose scale using just a wire brush ... by hand even. They are pretty thick steel frames with open sides that dry out unless something holds moisture laden mud against them like a front tank can do.
The red box is the area is what I am talking about, there are some very small drain holes that get clogged up easily, time to Dremel open then up or even add more. Also some discussion here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...h-shields.html
You might look at getting a set of newer truck plastic REAR fenderwell liners (Husky brand) and retrofit them to the rear? https://www.huskyliners.com/Wheel-We...IaAh2sEALw_wcB
There is a thread where a guy took a set from the front of a 79 and made them work for the rear. Searching...
I like your idea for lifting the cab off. I will have to try that when I put mine back on. I bought a 75 F100 for the bed and cab to fix so when they are done I can just swap them onto my 78 frame. Did that so I can still drive my 78 4WD, which I do daily. I ended up putting a dimple in the roof of the 75 cab ....too busy trying to keep it level and not enough attention paid to the end of the hoist. Picked the 75 up off Ebay. Has OEM bedsides already welded on and for the most part is rust free. It has not been on the road since 93. It is now stripped down waiting on someone to come buy the rolling chassis so I have room to keep working on it.
I like your idea for lifting the cab off. I will have to try that when I put mine back on. I bought a 75 F100 for the bed and cab to fix so when they are done I can just swap them onto my 78 frame. Did that so I can still drive my 78 4WD, which I do daily. I ended up putting a dimple in the roof of the 75 cab ....too busy trying to keep it level and not enough attention paid to the end of the hoist. Picked the 75 up off Ebay. Has OEM bedsides already welded on and for the most part is rust free. It has not been on the road since 93. It is now stripped down waiting on someone to come buy the rolling chassis so I have room to keep working on it.
Nice! Yeah, I was really dreading taking it off but it was way more secure and easy to move around than I thought. I would definitely do it this way again.
Finally got the motor and trans pulled. The next bit of time will be rebuilding both, starting with the transmission. Going to finish stripping the frame getting it ready for warmer days to sandblast.
Does anyone have any resources for suspension/axles(easy swap/rebuild guides/etc)? I have zero knowledge to them and have no idea what to check/replace/rebuild. Someone on here said I have an 9 3/8 rear end and suggested changing it out. Not sure where to go from here but really just need to start deciding now to get a pile of stuff ready for the blaster.
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With those out of the way, you can unbolt the motor.
