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Bed off and tank out. A lot of pitting in the frame, may be more surface. Being my first any restoration or tackling anything close to this I guess I can’t really judge how bad it is. Let me know what you think or if you have any words of advice.
Also, one of the rear cross members bottoms is rusted through. Is that fixable?
The moment you realize you’re in over your head
Finished stripping everything today, minus the wiper motor/arms and transfer case shifter. Couldnt figure out how to get either out. Not sure how to detach the wiper arms and didn’t see anything obvious to disconnect the shifter. Plan on pulling the cab in a couple of days, rigging up a engine hoist with some wood to lift from the roof. Just a couple of hours every few days but making some progress.
View from the bottom. The projection off to the left is where th tc shifter attaches
Sorry the pictures loaded first.
Hopefully you've been taking lots of pictures and downloading them somewhere where they won't get lost.
Disconnecting the tc shifter is a pita. A pin connects it to a rod that goes to the shift rails on the tc. Wiggle it out and then the Big bolt that holds the shift arm to the side of the transmission extension can be loosened with a big crescent wrench. There wasn't enough room for anything other than a crescent wrench.
On ours it had to be turned from underneath. Sometimes only about a 16th of a turn at a time. Your neck and arm are gonna get tired and you'll probably drop the wrench on your face a time or two, so cover it a best you can with a spare shirt and wear some safety glasses.
Hopefully you've been taking lots of pictures and downloading them somewhere where they won't get lost.
Disconnecting the tc shifter is a pita. A pin connects it to a rod that goes to the shift rails on the tc. Wiggle it out and then the Big bolt that holds the shift arm to the side of the transmission can be loosened with a big crescent wrench.
On ours it had to be turned from underneath. Sometimes only about a 16th of a turn at a time. Your neck and arm are gonna get tired and you'll probably drop the wrench on your face a time or two, so cover it a best you can with a spare shirt and wear some safety glasses.
Haha! Good to know! I was taking a lot of pictures but admittedly have been taking less the more I go, definitely not a good thing.
I looked at it from the top and thought there was no way I was going to fit a tool in there from underneath so I thought I must be missing something. I’ll get under it and give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks!
X2 on what John said about the xfer case. Disconnect either end of the U shaped rod 1st then simply remove the big bolt.
W/S connection clip #15731 make note (and take a pic) of how things are in PARK, and put them back together the same way. Sometimes people have a going back together issue when the motor arm is not in the same position and the arms will not go back on.
X2 on what John said about the xfer case. Disconnect either end of the U shaped rod 1st then simply remove the big bolt.
W/S connection clip #15731 make note (and take a pic) of how things are in PARK, and put them back together the same way. Sometimes people have a going back together issue when the motor arm is not in the same position and the arms will not go back on.
Great, thank you! I’ll give it a shot today, this is perfect.
It seems like at least half of the questions I have you are always in the thread providing the answers. Are these schematics in a book I can purchase? I notice you post a lot that look similar. Might save you from answering a few questions from me! Haha
Your bed floor rust looks very much like mine, but mine is probably 10 times worse - and all of it in the rear half of the floor, like yours. Yours I would consider patching the individual holes, (depending on what it looks like underneath) but I think I want to section in some large patches in the worst spots, or preferably the whole floor. 1980-1996 bed floors, and I believe 'back' walls, are the same as Dentsides.
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