I’m that guy
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
If you do decide to tear into it pull the engine out the front and get it on a stand and do it right so you know you aren’t dropping crap into the crank case and really causing more issues than you possibly have. It is possible to do all of it in the truck but not easy and the time and effort to do in cab heads would be better used on pulling it or going cab off the frame.
I’m happy with my UCF o-ringed heads with motorcraft gaskets. Research research research. I have an engine rebuild thread as well as HTM101 and several others.
I’m happy with my UCF o-ringed heads with motorcraft gaskets. Research research research. I have an engine rebuild thread as well as HTM101 and several others.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 14
From: San Diego
@SmackDaddy , et al,
thank you. Reached out to dieseltech in San Jacinto to make an appointment. I really want to do it myself and save thousands, but my back is bad. Like really bad possibly forcing a change in employment. I just can’t rationalize doing it. If I did, I would be looking at doing it without pulling the engine as I don’t have garage space for an engine. Well, maybe I would I would just be parked on a sloped driveway, I guess maybe an engine hoist could pull it out and then I could do it out of the bay…
thank you. Reached out to dieseltech in San Jacinto to make an appointment. I really want to do it myself and save thousands, but my back is bad. Like really bad possibly forcing a change in employment. I just can’t rationalize doing it. If I did, I would be looking at doing it without pulling the engine as I don’t have garage space for an engine. Well, maybe I would I would just be parked on a sloped driveway, I guess maybe an engine hoist could pull it out and then I could do it out of the bay…
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
@SmackDaddy , et al,
thank you. Reached out to dieseltech in San Jacinto to make an appointment. I really want to do it myself and save thousands, but my back is bad. Like really bad possibly forcing a change in employment. I just can’t rationalize doing it. If I did, I would be looking at doing it without pulling the engine as I don’t have garage space for an engine. Well, maybe I would I would just be parked on a sloped driveway, I guess maybe an engine hoist could pull it out and then I could do it out of the bay…
thank you. Reached out to dieseltech in San Jacinto to make an appointment. I really want to do it myself and save thousands, but my back is bad. Like really bad possibly forcing a change in employment. I just can’t rationalize doing it. If I did, I would be looking at doing it without pulling the engine as I don’t have garage space for an engine. Well, maybe I would I would just be parked on a sloped driveway, I guess maybe an engine hoist could pull it out and then I could do it out of the bay…
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10,118
Likes: 650
From: NH
A new truck pulls amazingly well, and has power in areas the 6.0L doesn't. One of the things I notice is that when I'm going 70 in my 6.0L, there isn't strong power to accelerate hard to 80+ if I need to. On my 6.7L RAM, or my previous 6.7L Fords...those things pull hard at those speeds. Of course they all had one extra gear. The other big difference I notice is that the newer trucks don't have as much lag.
My 2005 F-350 dually has a GVWR of 13,000lbs and with its 4.10 axle I believe the tow rating is just over 15,000lbs. I tow 16k. My 2017 F-350 dually had a max tow rating of 31,000lbs....
If I were in your shoes, I'd fix it. A 2005 King Ranch is a magnificent truck.
My 2005 F-350 dually has a GVWR of 13,000lbs and with its 4.10 axle I believe the tow rating is just over 15,000lbs. I tow 16k. My 2017 F-350 dually had a max tow rating of 31,000lbs....
If I were in your shoes, I'd fix it. A 2005 King Ranch is a magnificent truck.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 14
From: San Diego
Thank you for all the knowledge and opinions!
I think I’ve made piece that we will get it fixed. I always read and believed you either get a pre-emissions truck (I know the 6.0 has the egr but that pales in comparison to what happened in the following generations..) and fix whats wrong, OR buy something with a warranty and then when that one comes out of warranty, trade it in for something else with a warranty, FOR-EV-ER….
I just didn’t expect to do HGs right away, especially when I saw it has studs already ( can the ARPs be re-used?). Buyer beware, I should have been more educated. We do like the truck.
If they(or me) are going in that far, what else is recommended? I see BPD has a highly recommended (and pricey!) oil to air cooler, a ‘professional kitI’ that appears to have the updated stand pipes and what not.
Turbo refresh?
https://bulletproofdiesel.com/produc...ystem-90201017
I think I’ve made piece that we will get it fixed. I always read and believed you either get a pre-emissions truck (I know the 6.0 has the egr but that pales in comparison to what happened in the following generations..) and fix whats wrong, OR buy something with a warranty and then when that one comes out of warranty, trade it in for something else with a warranty, FOR-EV-ER….
I just didn’t expect to do HGs right away, especially when I saw it has studs already ( can the ARPs be re-used?). Buyer beware, I should have been more educated. We do like the truck.
If they(or me) are going in that far, what else is recommended? I see BPD has a highly recommended (and pricey!) oil to air cooler, a ‘professional kitI’ that appears to have the updated stand pipes and what not.
Turbo refresh?
https://bulletproofdiesel.com/produc...ystem-90201017
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10,118
Likes: 650
From: NH
The BPD "professional kit" seems to include a Wix canister filter they are calling an oil filter, but the 6.0L uses a cartridge filter, so I'm not sure what's up with that. The fuel filters can likely be purchased cheaper as OEM parts elsewhere.
I think you made a good choice on keeping and fixing the truck. As for the turbo, when its off you can check for play. Why replace something that isn't bad? Maybe others can comment. My turbo is new. Certainly do the standpipes and the HPOP STC fitting while the engine is apart.
I think you made a good choice on keeping and fixing the truck. As for the turbo, when its off you can check for play. Why replace something that isn't bad? Maybe others can comment. My turbo is new. Certainly do the standpipes and the HPOP STC fitting while the engine is apart.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
I'm not sure you have a blown head gasket vs a blown EGR cooler. It's hard/impossible to tell the difference. I've read where the coolant system pressure rises much faster (after being vented) with a head gasket failure than with a EGR cooler failure. I'd be inclined to run quite a few coolant pressure tests and then pull the EGR cooler and pressure test it before making that financial commitment for head gaskets. It should be simple to pressure test it, but requires the intake to be removed.
If you go with head gaskets, you must o-ring the heads. From what I read, this is the best insurance against future head gasket problems. If I had to do mine, I'd like go with KDD O-ringed heads.
If you go with head gaskets, you must o-ring the heads. From what I read, this is the best insurance against future head gasket problems. If I had to do mine, I'd like go with KDD O-ringed heads.
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 82
Likes: 14
From: San Diego
Oh dang good question. I guess I assumed worst case some would have to be zip tied to allow listing of the head, as I thought that was what it took to get them on in the first place. Assuming the PO didn’t just do them one by one.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
It can be done without lifting the cab or pulling the motor. They say it's much tougher and requires an offset socket to torque a couple of head bolts/nuts. Full disclosure.... I've never done it. This is just what I've gathered from other forum members over the years.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 830
Likes: 39
From: Whittier
I have done the heads with the engine in. The best way is to remove the left motor mount and drop the engine to the frame. You get more room to work on both sides. The rear studs have to be loosened and held in place with rubber bands while the heads are lifted and using the same method to replace the heads. I built a bracket to bolt on to the head and hook the chain onto to lift the heads because they are heavy. The heads have to be put in place without sliding them around which might damage the gasket. so the hoist is needed for that. The bracket, if built right will hold the head correctly to drop it in place. all explained on youtube.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 240
From: Texas
I have done the heads with the engine in. The best way is to remove the left motor mount and drop the engine to the frame. You get more room to work on both sides. The rear studs have to be loosened and held in place with rubber bands while the heads are lifted and using the same method to replace the heads. I built a bracket to bolt on to the head and hook the chain onto to lift the heads because they are heavy. The heads have to be put in place without sliding them around which might damage the gasket. so the hoist is needed for that. The bracket, if built right will hold the head correctly to drop it in place. all explained on youtube.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,827
Likes: 3,110
From: Jersey Shore
I've done heads many time in cab when I have had to. I don't care for it at all, some due to the positioning, but mostly due to not being able to do the work in the controlled manner I'd like to. It's not that hard to pull the engine, if you have a crane, stand, and a place to work. With the 6.0, I can't image not doing it this way.
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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
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Sep 30, 2019 09:55 PM