When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey all! Got an old 1990 f250 Lariat dumped in my lap, trying to figure out if it’s a fixer or not.
Number one issue right now is getting it to stay running. It starts, but it’s like the cylinder won’t stay in place, and will “let go” of the connection (I don’t know much about the works of the cylinder itself, excuse the terminology).
I can keep it running if I keep my hand on the ignition and keep it turned ever so slightly once it’s running.
I think this is a problem with the cylinder itself, and a relatively easy and inexpensive fix. I’ve already removed the lock cylinder, but before I go ordering parts, does this seem like an issue with the cylinder itself, or with the switch it connects to? Cylinder is easy, switch, it looks like I’ll be taking the steering wheel off to get at it, dunno, haven’t dug that far into what that would take.
any advice on the actual problem from someone who’s seen this behaviour before would’ve helpful. I don’t have a lot of time free to fix this, and it’s basically parked in the woods on a hill, so tinkering is a pain.
thanks. Also I’m thinking order a new lock cylinder anyhow since they’re not that expensive.
To me it sounds like the actuator could be broken. Another possibility is the switch is out of adjustment. There is no spring mechanism in the lock cylinder.
To me it sounds like the actuator could be broken. Another possibility is the switch is out of adjustment. There is no spring mechanism in the lock cylinder.
That’s a good point about the cylinder not having a spring. Sounds like I’m going to have to get right in there regardless
*that steering wheel nut is one tough MFer, guess I need to rent a puller too
it sounds to me like the ignition switch is failing. what happens is with age they separate between the plastic and metal parts causing the issues you are seeing.
ignition switch is on top of the column, about above the brake pedal.
looks like this:
That’s really helpful to know too. I’m still stuck on that stupid nut, but I haven’t gone back and it hit with all the various things yet. I’m assuming I’ll need to get the steering wheel off to get into the column. Haven’t seen any way to really get the casing off yet
Wow, the steering wheel nut won't come loose. Get a 6 corner !/2 inch drive socket and about a 17 inch breaker bar. You will then need a steering wheel puller to get the steering wheel loose.
Maybe remove the plastic cowling from around the steering column first and then remove 2 or 4 small bolts holding the steering column to the dash and drop the steering column down so you can get access to the ignition switch(the electrical part) a few inches forward of the key tumbler connected by the actuator rod. The ignition switch may just need to be adjusted, ie slid closer to the key tumbler. It would be anyones guess what the actual fix is this point. Have to tear into it and investigate.
there is no need to remove the steering wheel to test or replace the switch. it is on top of the column, roughly above the brake pedal.
remove the two lower dash panels, remove the shift indicator from steering column if automatic, loosen the 4 nuts holding the steering column up, and drop the steering column down on the driver seat. then with a flashlight look between the column and dash and you will see the switch.
reach under the dash and feel it. you will know rite away if it is bad or not.
my bet is it will be separated between the metal and plastic parts.
Yeah, I am agreeing with these guys when I bought my truck it wouldn't start because of the actuator rod between the lock cylinder and the switch the bolts onto the steering column down below. You could have a faulty switch or it might just be loose and came out of place. Try moving it up the steering column a bit so that the actuator actually hits the spring and starts the engine.
there is no need to remove the steering wheel to test or replace the switch. it is on top of the column, roughly above the brake pedal.
remove the two lower dash panels, remove the shift indicator from steering column if automatic, loosen the 4 nuts holding the steering column up, and drop the steering column down on the driver seat. then with a flashlight look between the column and dash and you will see the switch.
reach under the dash and feel it. you will know rite away if it is bad or not.
my bet is it will be separated between the metal and plastic parts.
Spot on man. I finally got a moment to look into this and 100% right. No steering wheel removal, drop the column (unhook the shifter), there it is, plastic splitting from the mount. You saved me a lot of time and effort, and probably money. Solid, and thank you.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.