Is this front end movement normal?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Is this front end movement normal?
Have a vibration in the truck that’s driving me crazy. Tires have been rebalanced and not it. Looking at the front end parts now. Is this supposed to move like this? I don’t really see any other issues but am by no means a steering or front end specialist.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,094
Likes: 1,629
That's a big more play than I'd personally like to see, but yes, that will move like that because they are ball/sockets.
If the tires are balanced, is your alignment good (gotta have that checked at a GOOD shop)? Where are you feeling the vibration, floorboards or steering wheel? Floorboards are usually rear related, steering wheel is front end related.
If you're feeling it in the steering wheel it could be u-joints in the axle shafts or front driveshaft, are your lockouts unlocked? Do the wheels spin freely? No grinding noise when you spin them by hand? If you put it in 4wd and drive does the vibration get worse or better? There's a lot of things it could be, I've had axle u-joints freeze up and cause vibrations, with the front end fully locked but in 2wd on my selector switch I've had the front driveshaft give a vibration from u-joints being bad.
If it's felt more in the floorboard, my first suggestion would be to check the rear driveshaft u-joints.
If the tires are balanced, is your alignment good (gotta have that checked at a GOOD shop)? Where are you feeling the vibration, floorboards or steering wheel? Floorboards are usually rear related, steering wheel is front end related.
If you're feeling it in the steering wheel it could be u-joints in the axle shafts or front driveshaft, are your lockouts unlocked? Do the wheels spin freely? No grinding noise when you spin them by hand? If you put it in 4wd and drive does the vibration get worse or better? There's a lot of things it could be, I've had axle u-joints freeze up and cause vibrations, with the front end fully locked but in 2wd on my selector switch I've had the front driveshaft give a vibration from u-joints being bad.
If it's felt more in the floorboard, my first suggestion would be to check the rear driveshaft u-joints.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10,401
Likes: 2,606
From: Near Salt Lake City
Ford chassis master 1998 All 8 ASE + L1 completely NUTS + fos
Fixed hundreds from popping like that
Real hard to find the rubber isolators now and you may have to re use your boots
There was an old TSB from around 96 for F350 and Super Duty
To remove and replace the tie rod boots and install big rubber washers
This fix tightened them up for about 30 thousand miles and no more popping (movement)
I tried to find my copy of the TSB recently and have not found it yet
I will look again
Fixed hundreds from popping like that
Real hard to find the rubber isolators now and you may have to re use your boots
There was an old TSB from around 96 for F350 and Super Duty
To remove and replace the tie rod boots and install big rubber washers
This fix tightened them up for about 30 thousand miles and no more popping (movement)
I tried to find my copy of the TSB recently and have not found it yet
I will look again
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,450
Likes: 13
From: Forest lake minnesota
Totally not normal, the bar the holds your front axle in place is wore out as you can see by the play in the joint which causes your front axle to move side to side as you drive, it needs to be replaced..
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
That's a big more play than I'd personally like to see, but yes, that will move like that because they are ball/sockets.
If the tires are balanced, is your alignment good (gotta have that checked at a GOOD shop)? Where are you feeling the vibration, floorboards or steering wheel? Floorboards are usually rear related, steering wheel is front end related.
I have not had the alignment checked but the steering wheel is centered and doesn’t pull to either side. Where I feel it is weird. I really don’t feel it in the steering, however it feels like the whole front end is shimming side to side. Does it at all speeds, 30 mph and up it gets worse and worse.
If you're feeling it in the steering wheel it could be u-joints in the axle shafts or front driveshaft, are your lockouts unlocked? Do the wheels spin freely? No grinding noise when you spin them by hand? If you put it in 4wd and drive does the vibration get worse or better? There's a lot of things it could be, I've had axle u-joints freeze up and cause vibrations, with the front end fully locked but in 2wd on my selector switch I've had the front driveshaft give a vibration from u-joints being bad.
I just greased the front axle u joints about 3 weeks ago. The hubs lock and unlock fine. I will have to see if the front axles are spending but I don’t think so. I will lock the hubs on the way to work and will report back.
If it's felt more in the floorboard, my first suggestion would be to check the rear driveshaft u-joints.
If the tires are balanced, is your alignment good (gotta have that checked at a GOOD shop)? Where are you feeling the vibration, floorboards or steering wheel? Floorboards are usually rear related, steering wheel is front end related.
I have not had the alignment checked but the steering wheel is centered and doesn’t pull to either side. Where I feel it is weird. I really don’t feel it in the steering, however it feels like the whole front end is shimming side to side. Does it at all speeds, 30 mph and up it gets worse and worse.
If you're feeling it in the steering wheel it could be u-joints in the axle shafts or front driveshaft, are your lockouts unlocked? Do the wheels spin freely? No grinding noise when you spin them by hand? If you put it in 4wd and drive does the vibration get worse or better? There's a lot of things it could be, I've had axle u-joints freeze up and cause vibrations, with the front end fully locked but in 2wd on my selector switch I've had the front driveshaft give a vibration from u-joints being bad.
I just greased the front axle u joints about 3 weeks ago. The hubs lock and unlock fine. I will have to see if the front axles are spending but I don’t think so. I will lock the hubs on the way to work and will report back.
If it's felt more in the floorboard, my first suggestion would be to check the rear driveshaft u-joints.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Ford chassis master 1998 All 8 ASE + L1 completely NUTS + fos
Fixed hundreds from popping like that
Real hard to find the rubber isolators now and you may have to re use your boots
There was an old TSB from around 96 for F350 and Super Duty
To remove and replace the tie rod boots and install big rubber washers
This fix tightened them up for about 30 thousand miles and no more popping (movement)
I tried to find my copy of the TSB recently and have not found it yet
I will look again
Fixed hundreds from popping like that
Real hard to find the rubber isolators now and you may have to re use your boots
There was an old TSB from around 96 for F350 and Super Duty
To remove and replace the tie rod boots and install big rubber washers
This fix tightened them up for about 30 thousand miles and no more popping (movement)
I tried to find my copy of the TSB recently and have not found it yet
I will look again
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,298
Likes: 94
From: Delta, CO
Looks like you may need a track bar bushing & ball joint, mine was replaced with 140k miles on it right after I bought it when I took it in for an alignment.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2019
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From: San Diego, CA
Just my two cents... I would be looking elsewhere before replacing any of the steering joints or track bar bushings. There will always be some small amount of play with rubber bushings (track bar play you're seeing). The rotation of the drag link is normal in my experience.
Did you check lock out hubs to ensure they are free as stated above?
With the vibration: Is it felt from low speed all the way up to high speed changing frequency (constant vibration), or does the vibration only happen at certain speeds (harmonic). This will help point to a certain area of the truck to look at. Do you feel it in the steering wheel, or just in the seat? Does it have a noise associated or not? Does it change when applying brakes? Is the vibration associated with engine RPM or vehicle speed?
Did you check lock out hubs to ensure they are free as stated above?
With the vibration: Is it felt from low speed all the way up to high speed changing frequency (constant vibration), or does the vibration only happen at certain speeds (harmonic). This will help point to a certain area of the truck to look at. Do you feel it in the steering wheel, or just in the seat? Does it have a noise associated or not? Does it change when applying brakes? Is the vibration associated with engine RPM or vehicle speed?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,094
Likes: 1,629
That track bar is moving FAR too much, And there are upgraded replacements out there that will cost about as much as the stock replacement, and may even come with urethane bushings instead of rubber.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Front driveshaft is spinning freely, hubs are unlocked. Front axle joints were greased a couple months ago. Both front and rear driveshaft u joints appear to have original joints with no play. Front tie rod ends have some play in them and the draglink does as well as you have seen above. Guess I will be looking for parts.
I just feel it. The steering wheel doesn’t really move I can just feel it. It’s not there 100% of the time. Really depends on the road surface. Seems really bad around 40 and then like 65-70 mph.
I just feel it. The steering wheel doesn’t really move I can just feel it. It’s not there 100% of the time. Really depends on the road surface. Seems really bad around 40 and then like 65-70 mph.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
Well I was delayed a little bit. I replaced the shocks with some Bilsteins last week. And just ordered the new tie rod ends and drag link. I didn’t order the track bar or track bar hall joint. Was starting to add up quickly. But I am getting ready to leave on a 2,000 mile camping trip so I am wondering if that was a bad choice or do I replace what I ordered and go from there. I wanted to go back with OEM figured they lasted 120K but they are over double MOOG parts. Everything is so expensive!! Hopefully the MOOG serve me well. Just figured I would give an update.
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