1994 Ranger Splash 4.0 2wd
Cranks fine cold.
At operating temp, when I try to turn it back on and it will turn the motor but not start.
I give it gas to the floor and it cranks right up.
Truck died on me going down the road one time. Wouldn’t start without flooring the gas pedal then started like normal… drove all the way home.

I cleaned the MAF, all my vacuum lines are connected.
it does have a major oil leak that needs to be addressed but I make sure it’s full while I drive it.

why won’t it start when hot?

 

Takes air, fuel, spark & compression to make em run, so whats going missing, or is out of tolerance when it won't start hot??? Tote your fuel pressure gauge & inductive timing light along on the next drive cycle, to tattle on those two bad boys when it wont restart hot & let us know what you find.

 

these had a problem with the fuel pump relay. Go get an extra and if/when it happens again change it over. Its located in the fuse box on left fender, just look at diagram on box to see which one. Mine used to not start after shutdown with a fairly rapid restart attempt. I bought the relay (about $5) and swapped it out. No issues since. One fella indicated that there was usually corrosion on the wire contacts under the fuse box which caused the issue. I am not saying this is you problem but it was common some years ago on this site.

Check for the corrosion and apply a contact cleaner to the connectors. If still doesnt work then take the steps outlined by pawpaw. There is also potential the fuel pump is going out if it stops while driving. I got mine when I had to change the fuel filler hose so while bed off truck just R&Rd the fuel pump. Got mine at autozone as I did the fuel filler hose.

 

I replaced the fuel pump relay. Did not fix the “no hot start” problem at first.

I found a vacuum line towards the drivers side headlight not connected and a deteriorating elbow piece, so I fixed it and reconnected the line.


I took the battery cables off and held them together for 10 minutes. Cleaned the IAC… a little dirty.

truck seems to be doing fine now, now cranks normals after turning off after a drive while still hot.

bought the truck from a mechanic shop. That’s the 2nd vacuum line I’ve found disconnected.

 

Good finds, feedback & to hear all now seems well.

 

After a couple drive cycles today at highway and interstate speeds my starting, idling, and shifting has improved. Automatic 4.0 2wd.

I think the battery cable trick is underestimated.

 

If it had been driven a while like this, the cold & warm idle strategy & fuel trim tables were likely corrupt, so disconnecting the battery B- cable wipes the KAM fuel trim tables & idle strategy.
We with a auto tranny can hurry-up the cold & warm idle relearn, by performing this routine. high idle problem - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com)

 

After following this procedure, it’s continuing to drive well. I heard the brain learning the cold idle.

Another note Pawpaw, when I was experiencing these issues I was at a quarter tank or less. When I went to fill up I felt and heard negative pressure release at the gas cap. Could this be from Georgia heat?
The previous owner installed a new fuel pump, filter, and filler neck. The cap still looks old.
I will pay attention as the tank empties.

 

The vapor emissions system applies a little negative tank pressure to draw tank fumes into the charcoal canister for storage until the next cold start. Those vapors make a dandy fuel that lights the engine off much easier & quicker than cold gasoline, So it sounds like things are working ok.

If the engine runs rough, or stalls after a cold start 15-20 mile drive & you loosen the gas cap to equalize tank pressure & it restarts & runs ok, then suspect the gas cap isn't letting in bleed air to equalize negative tank press as the engine uses fuel & the fuel pump can't overcome that negative pressure, so the engine looses power or stalls. Then its time to replace the gas cap with a OEM cap.