95 7.3 OBS Clutch Issues
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA 9264
95 7.3 OBS Clutch Issues
I have a 1995 F350 7.3 with a 5 speed manual 4WD . I was told the clutch was replaced prior to my buying the truck about 5 years ago.
I did the push rod bushing to hemi joint mod and replaced the clutch fork, btu the old one was not bent. the pedal has always been close to the floor (about 1' to 1.5") before it would disengage.
but now it is about 1/2" to 3/4", and hard to get into gear.
I just measured the clutch fork travel at the slave cylinder and it is 3/4"to7/8" well above minimum requirements. So I am looking for confirmation that the issue is most likely the clutch assembly before I pull the transmission to inspect the clutch assembly.
I do have some noise when the clutch is depressed so the T/O Bearing has some ware, and some chatter when I first let off the clutch until fully engaged but no slippage.
the trans needs 2nd gear synchro ring but I am not ready to do the trans yet
any input would be appreciated
Dennis
I do have a 9000lbs rotary 2 post lift but not sure about putting this beast on it and the truck does set purity high,
I did the push rod bushing to hemi joint mod and replaced the clutch fork, btu the old one was not bent. the pedal has always been close to the floor (about 1' to 1.5") before it would disengage.
but now it is about 1/2" to 3/4", and hard to get into gear.
I just measured the clutch fork travel at the slave cylinder and it is 3/4"to7/8" well above minimum requirements. So I am looking for confirmation that the issue is most likely the clutch assembly before I pull the transmission to inspect the clutch assembly.
I do have some noise when the clutch is depressed so the T/O Bearing has some ware, and some chatter when I first let off the clutch until fully engaged but no slippage.
the trans needs 2nd gear synchro ring but I am not ready to do the trans yet
any input would be appreciated
Dennis
I do have a 9000lbs rotary 2 post lift but not sure about putting this beast on it and the truck does set purity high,
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA 9264
i did the bushing mod and clutch fork, the hydraulics are good there is 7/8" travel and the minimum required is 1/2"
everything in the pedal box works good no play. I think the pressure plate is the issue but i wanted a second opinion from an experienced ford truck mechanic
I have never done the clutch on a ford f series but I am not new to mechanics. in my 60+ years I have done 20-30 clutch replacements on cars.
I am fairly sure it is in the clutch assembly and i see the rear main engine seal is leaking so i need to tare it down for that and i want to do the down pipe and up pipe upgrades
the oil cooler is leaking so all that would be easer with the trans out then i guess i should replace the synchro rings too.
I guess I am just looking for the extra push to tare in to it.
everything in the pedal box works good no play. I think the pressure plate is the issue but i wanted a second opinion from an experienced ford truck mechanic
I have never done the clutch on a ford f series but I am not new to mechanics. in my 60+ years I have done 20-30 clutch replacements on cars.
I am fairly sure it is in the clutch assembly and i see the rear main engine seal is leaking so i need to tare it down for that and i want to do the down pipe and up pipe upgrades
the oil cooler is leaking so all that would be easer with the trans out then i guess i should replace the synchro rings too.
I guess I am just looking for the extra push to tare in to it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,031
From: North Texas
Not the heim joint for the master, internal bushings on the box fatigue. If they have never been done, you need them.
If you think the clutch assembly is the issue, go with it. That trans is nearly 200lbs, so enlist some help. A good, stock style single mass kit is from Luk. Runs about $300 with new flywheel.
Most everyone recommends uppipes from Riffraff. I have them and recommend them too.
Depending how the rest of your exhaust is currently, you may want a full turbo back kit. Diamond Eye kits work well for the cost. I paid about $300 for my stainless turbo back. Just a downpipe runs around $300.
What you are doing could be a three day weekend project.
If you think the clutch assembly is the issue, go with it. That trans is nearly 200lbs, so enlist some help. A good, stock style single mass kit is from Luk. Runs about $300 with new flywheel.
Most everyone recommends uppipes from Riffraff. I have them and recommend them too.
Depending how the rest of your exhaust is currently, you may want a full turbo back kit. Diamond Eye kits work well for the cost. I paid about $300 for my stainless turbo back. Just a downpipe runs around $300.
What you are doing could be a three day weekend project.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA 9264
time isn't an issue I plan on at least a month down at my shop and I have back up vehicles
I like Riffraff I buy a lot from them. I do plan to do the turbo back exhaust $300 is a good price
thanks for the input Ill probably start the tare down next month, and it may be extended once I get into it
you always find more to do once you start
I like Riffraff I buy a lot from them. I do plan to do the turbo back exhaust $300 is a good price
thanks for the input Ill probably start the tare down next month, and it may be extended once I get into it
you always find more to do once you start
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,540
Likes: 2,031
From: North Texas
I rebuilt my own S5-47 if you need tips. Not super difficult just cumbersome due to gearset weight. My kit came from Midwest. Ran about $350 shipped, reverse uses the brass syncro, all others steel.
Look very close at the 5/R slider and R gear for wear on the dogs. There is usually quite a bit of wear there due to inept drivers.
Great time for the short shifter while down. Initial effort into gear is higher as the unit is notchy anyway, post that I have no issues.
Look very close at the 5/R slider and R gear for wear on the dogs. There is usually quite a bit of wear there due to inept drivers.
Great time for the short shifter while down. Initial effort into gear is higher as the unit is notchy anyway, post that I have no issues.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 132
Likes: 4
When I did the heim joint mod, I noticed the clutch arm at pedal box is splined. Is it possible to be a few splines off giving less throw where the master needs it?
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,250
Likes: 7,678
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
no the splines are so big if it isn't on the right one it won't even be close.
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 10,250
Likes: 7,678
From: Chino Valley, Arizona
i did the bushing mod and clutch fork, the hydraulics are good there is 7/8" travel and the minimum required is 1/2"
everything in the pedal box works good no play. I think the pressure plate is the issue but i wanted a second opinion from an experienced ford truck mechanic
I have never done the clutch on a ford f series but I am not new to mechanics. in my 60+ years I have done 20-30 clutch replacements on cars.
I am fairly sure it is in the clutch assembly and i see the rear main engine seal is leaking so i need to tare it down for that and i want to do the down pipe and up pipe upgrades
the oil cooler is leaking so all that would be easer with the trans out then i guess i should replace the synchro rings too.
I guess I am just looking for the extra push to tare in to it.
everything in the pedal box works good no play. I think the pressure plate is the issue but i wanted a second opinion from an experienced ford truck mechanic
I have never done the clutch on a ford f series but I am not new to mechanics. in my 60+ years I have done 20-30 clutch replacements on cars.
I am fairly sure it is in the clutch assembly and i see the rear main engine seal is leaking so i need to tare it down for that and i want to do the down pipe and up pipe upgrades
the oil cooler is leaking so all that would be easer with the trans out then i guess i should replace the synchro rings too.
I guess I am just looking for the extra push to tare in to it.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Spicewood, Texas
These are actually very fine splines. The metal is softer in the clutch arm vs the hardened clutch shaft. Each time you reinstall it it will actually cut its own new spot. It would be worth a try for the original poster to Re-clock that thing and get the pedal off the floor some. Might not be the full fix but it’s a good swing at it👍
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Huntington Beach, CA 9264
all good thoughts but the pedal box is good. I am 99% sure it is in the clutch assembly. and i have well over the minimum clutch fork travel so the hydraulics are good too.
regarding the oil at the rear main, about a year ago i did an exhaust back pressure valve delete and had the valley open the only leak then was the turbo base o-rings and i replaced them.
it still looks dry but when i pull the transmission i am going to do the up and down pipes and ether replace the fuel pump or do a delete and install an electronic pump and filters on the frame rail.
if I am in 3rd gear too long the fuel bowl runs dry. I believe it is the original fuel pump it a 1995
it's going to be down so i want to do all the needed repairs and upgrades. I'll post my progress and may even do a video of all the work
I love these trucks this if my 4th one I think it is fords best design ever a close 2nd is the 1970-75 f series
regarding the oil at the rear main, about a year ago i did an exhaust back pressure valve delete and had the valley open the only leak then was the turbo base o-rings and i replaced them.
it still looks dry but when i pull the transmission i am going to do the up and down pipes and ether replace the fuel pump or do a delete and install an electronic pump and filters on the frame rail.
if I am in 3rd gear too long the fuel bowl runs dry. I believe it is the original fuel pump it a 1995
it's going to be down so i want to do all the needed repairs and upgrades. I'll post my progress and may even do a video of all the work
I love these trucks this if my 4th one I think it is fords best design ever a close 2nd is the 1970-75 f series
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 132
Likes: 4
These are actually very fine splines. The metal is softer in the clutch arm vs the hardened clutch shaft. Each time you reinstall it it will actually cut its own new spot. It would be worth a try for the original poster to Re-clock that thing and get the pedal off the floor some. Might not be the full fix but it’s a good swing at it👍
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