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Here it is right out of the International book. Torque to ALL bolts to 100 Lb In. NOT Lb Ft!! B.
100 divided by 12 equals 8.333333.....so YAH, both are correct. This means 100 in-lbs. = 8.333333.... ft-lbs. In answer to the OP's question, the sequence is 9 THROUGH 16.
OK, what's the harm in NOT using this sequence? I can't imaging there'd be any. The torque is not high enough for it to be critical. Last I put mine on, I think I followed something similar to this, but I'm positive it wasn't exact.
The pattern is not a critical "consistent clamping load (preload)" sequence. Instead, it brings the manifold flat per side and then tensions the individual runners for each cylinder.
A critical preload sequence would be as specified for wheel lugs, heads, or other manifold types.
OK, what's the harm in NOT using this sequence? I can't imaging there'd be any. The torque is not high enough for it to be critical. Last I put mine on, I think I followed something similar to this, but I'm positive it wasn't exact.
Keep in mind that torque values are relative to the components being secured. The torque spec for the intake manifold is critical in the sense that if it’s too low the bolts could back out and it will start leaking at the gaskets - if it’s too high the bolts could break or the manifold could warp or crack.
As to the sequence, I asked for clarification simply because I had the information available to me and wanted to make sure it was done per service manual procedure because it was a customer truck. Had I not received an answer, or didn’t have the procedure to begin with, I would’ve improvised it using previous knowledge of Ford torque specs (I’ve almost always seen 8 ft-lbs as their spec for M6 bolts).
In this case I decided to improvise a bit anyway because I didn’t like the idea of one side being fully tight while the other just had loosely installed bolts, so I initially snugged down bolts 1-8 to 4 ft-lbs before tightening bolts 9-16 to 8 ft-lbs.
The truck is running great mechanically - unfortunately the radiator cracked open during the second test drive when my boss took it out. I was already working on other repairs when it happened so I haven’t had the chance to diagnose why it cracked yet, but from the initial start after repair there were no indications of intake leaks.
Some time ago.
I did the manifold the wrong way and the one side would not lay down.
I redid it and it went right down and no leaks. So there is some method to that madness.