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ABS light came on -- for a while

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Old Sep 7, 2021 | 09:26 PM
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ABS light came on -- for a while

Weirdness. Suggestions welcome . . .
  • 2005 Excursion 6.8 V10 Eddie Bauer 4X4
  • ABS light came on one day recently.
  • Tried to read codes from my Actron CP9125 scanner
  • Could not read anything at all. Tried in my wife's Honda and it worked.
  • Then the ABS light all of a sudden wasn't on anymore, still isn't.
  • Codes still cannot be read.
A few observations as well: had been noticing (from the rear) an ABS-like bounciness (pulsations) when applying the brakes at moderate speeds (~40 MPH+ usually) but not so much at lower speeds for a few months.
For the code scanner, could this be a fuse issue? If so which fuse do I replace? What else wouldn't work if the port's associated fuse was no good?
Also does anyone know if the CP9125 can read ABS codes in the first place?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2021 | 09:52 PM
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FWIW I share the evil ABS spirit. It comes, it goes. I get a C1185 ABS Power relay output circuit failure. It was off when I drove to work and parked it. I started it to go home an on it pops. It came on after going through a car wash. From what I glean people start looking at sensors first. It could be the ABS module. Those are around 200 or so All I know is that it is another PIA to chase down. These guys are getting old enough to nickel and dime you to death. Thankfully this is my hobby but I've had more screwball trouble with this X than the other 3 I've owned all put together.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2021 | 06:51 AM
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Mine has been popping on and off for a decade now; I haven’t figure it out yet. Someone here will in the next decade.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2021 | 06:42 PM
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Now I’ve got the check engine light on.
Can’t tell what’s wrong since the code scanner comes up with nothing when I plug it in.

Can anyone at least tell me how to get the code scanner to read something at this point?
Maybe it’s a bad fuse. But which fuse?
If I could only get the codes out of this then I’d have an idea what’s going on.
After the Check Engine light came on today, more weirdness happened: the AC suddenly got warm, the ride got rough (but handle-able) and the idle also seemed rough. Similar (a little) to when I had a bad spark plug (they’re all less than a year old now) and somewhat like the issue when my old Mercury had a bad caliper, though I suspect that less since the X’s handling was still manageable. Grabbing at straws here. Anyone have any ideas?

At least can someone tell me how to get the code scanner to read codes? It works fine on all my other cars.

Thanks to anyone who can help.
I need it.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2021 | 07:34 PM
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Not sure about your scanner, I’ve got 1 from Harbor fright that works well. When my ABS light pops on and off over time, it never triggers a code. As you describe the issues, I’m reminded of this. Probably not your issue, but worth a check.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16884895
 
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Old Sep 19, 2021 | 09:35 PM
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Here is a picture of the fuse box if it helps.
Does anything look wrong?:


 
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 01:15 AM
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There is a vacuum switch under the hood in front of the evaporator-a big black looking apparatus that is spliced into a heater hose. There is a gray vacuum line with a black end on it which attaches to it. The nib for the vacuum hose to attach to is so stinking short that after a while the hose will pop off and you'll just see it dangling in that area. Sudden rough idle and ac acting up could possibly be that little vacuum hose--guess how I know.

I'm formulating ideas about cause and effect on the ABS light. Now if I go down a hill and apply the brakes I can feel the rear brakes pulsating like they are bad or in the old days-drum brakes would wear and as they got bad enough, the linings would start to separate off the brake shoe so only part of the shoe was able to try to stop. We used to describe it as the "brakes are not catching or are rolling" That is what this situation feels like -not like warped rotors. Sometimes if I go slow and put on the brakes, I hear a pop in the front which is not the traction bar-I redid everything on it. It only happens when I put on the brakes.. Calipers are now entering into my thinking. Pulsating rear brakes when they are not worn and were fine a 1000 miles ago and a noise which sounds like a brake caliper in the front. All that is something an ABS controller and/or bad sensors could hypothetically cause to my way of thinking-I'm not an expert but more of a detective trying to put together clues to look for commonality. I got a code that basically meant a bad output circuit aka the ABS controller module. It could also mean a bad sensor but it doesn't say that. They're not terrifically expensive and I'm getting to the point I'm ready to give it a shot. I'm just starting on the sensors-if they are good the the ABS module goes.

My check engine light has always been an evaporative emission leak aka gas cap which there is also a light for. Twice, after a new gas cap, it said I had a "large" leak I tinkered with the new cap, cleaned where it fits against the filler neck and the filler neck itself. I reset the light and we'll see what happens

Was your X ever owned in CA? If one was originally bought there, there is an additional emission system component that others do not have solely designed to meet the more stringent emission standards. I know it exists but have not had time to research it. I had a code that referred to it and I didn't know what it was talking about and really still don't. Gas engines create their own vacuum which are also part of the emission system-like PVC-etc. So-I have things which could be potentially vacuum based issues. I have not done this but there is a fluorescent dye you can use to detect vacuum leaks. ..you put into your vacuum system and look for it with a black light. I think there is a kit for that on Amazon. If you don't mind hokey youtube videos-look up Scotty Kilmer-he has a video on it. Work keeps getting in the way of my more important X issues. Good luck.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 06:26 PM
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Made some progress.
If someone had looked at the fuse box picture I’d posted, I could have known this earlier, but regardless:
  • Notice fuse #12 looks like crap and is only 7.5 Amp.
  • Supposed to be 20 Amps.
  • I removed the 7.5 Amp fuse; sure enough it was blown.
  • Replaced it with another 20 Amp fuse from the 3rd row power port that I never use.
  • Got the scanner to work!

And: there’s a P0355 code.

In the V10, isn’t this the furthest-back spark plug on the passenger side? (In other words, the toughest one to reach?)

Noticed inside also: something could be making a home in there. Saw vegetation debris next to some of the plugs where the coils pop in. I wonder if ….

Now if I could only lick the ABS problem.

Thanks to those who contributed so far.

 
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 09:06 PM
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Good progress!

No5 is a bit of a pain, but not bad once you remove the 3 bolts holding the plate (let me find that pic), disconnect a vacuum line, and use a wobble socket. I lay on heavy movers blanket or 2 on the battery area then lay on my chest to reach it.

I've never replaced my front abs sensors, but did have the one on top of the rear pumpkin go south; easy enough to replace.

Plate that sits on 3 studs (pic from Sammy)


 
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