So I am getting started (after two years of it sitting and having an engine in the garage)on swapping my current engine and putting in a low miles used engine.
I have two questions.
First, does anyone have a good link to a step-by-step on removing the engine?
second, i was thinking about hooking up the hoist to the lift hooks on the engine and just pulling the truck back away from the engine. Has anyone do e ot this way? I also have
access to a fork lift. . I am trying to do this with the cab on.

 

Start by taking lots of pictures. Check this thread out, lots of different ideas.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...echniques.html

 

On the top end;
Disconnect your batteries!!!!
Remove your FICM.
Remove the turbo and up pipes. Spray the bolts on each of those pieces with your favorite penetrating oil an hour before you start turning bolts.
Remove the oil/fuel filter housing and the black plastic stand pipe. That unit is too tall and will be in the way.
Drop the A/C compressor. Three bolts, two are 10mm and the back and hardest one to get to is 13mm. You have to use a wrench for the back one, not enough room for a ratchet and socket.
Disconnect the sensor hidden behind the A/C compressor.
Remove the PS pump and disconnect the hidden sensor behind it.
Remove the main engine harness and lay it over the driver fender.

On the bottom end;
Remove the lower engine mounts once you get the engine supported with a lift. The oil pan is a tight fit and this will give you extra room. Be advised the factory bolts are covered in blue loctite, you they will he stubborn all the way out. The nuts on the very bottom on the back side of the frame are grip nuts so they too will need to be wrenched all the way off.

In general there is the obvious stuff. Remove your trucks front end. Like the grill and head light support assembly. No joke. Alternator, cooling fan, cooling fan shroud, radiator, heat exchanger you know the usual stuff. The A/C Condenser can be rotated to the passenger side with it still connected to the system if you so choose. Just be careful with it to prevent damage to the fins. The top right and left transmission oil cooler bolts need to come out so it will flex forward on the bottom brackets allowing you to swing your leg over to ease climbing in and out. The bumper can stay put.

One thing I like to do is, when ever I remove an assembly, I always thread the bolts back in that were holding that assembly in place. That way you are less prone to loosing bolts OR trying to figure which bolts went where when you put it all back together.

Take your time and take pics as suggested. One problem is the firewall at the back. It over hangs the engine limiting your ability to lift the engine. So you want as much clearance as you can get back there for lifting the engine. Your center lifting point will be roughly over the four bolts holding the turbo stand. B.

 

You can start with the front bumper and walk/work your way in. You won't have to do near as much climbing that way.

 

Done em both ways (cab on, cab off) -- out the front works but takes more time.

 

Cab off is easier, but I don't have a two post lift. So, I had to pull the front off to work on mine. B.

 

I didn't think it was that hard.

 

Cab on or cab off is prolly a six of one - half dozen of another kind of thing I would imagine. Once the front is off, it's not hard to work on the engine for sure. The exhaust up-pipes are a real PITA. Not a lot of room on the back side. I found the exhaust had to be fully fitted loosely before any of it got tightened down. That way you can adjust the fitment as it goes. B.

 

The rear pipes are the pain. If my body mount threads were not so rusty, I would angle the front of the cab up just for a little clearance.