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I bought a gauge cluster with a tachometer to swap into my 96 F250 and on the back it has 2 jumper wires from the voltage light to the check engine light (see pic), is that normal? I don't think it is but. 2nd question the voltage gauge doesn't work in the cluster I bought so I thought about swapping the working voltage gauge from my cluster and swap it into this new cluster. it's only held in by two screws on the back but the needle is keeping it from pulling out. How do I remove the needle so I can get this gauge out.
Thanks for the responses. So I returned this one and the guy sent me a "better" one. And the voltage doesn't work. I'm wondering if it's not compatible. But everything I've read it is plug and play. Anyone run into this? That's two gauge clusters that I've tried and both voltage gauges didnt work. I will try switching the voltage gauge in my old cluster that i know works into ths cluster and report back later.
Thanks for the responses. So I returned this one and the guy sent me a "better" one. And the voltage doesn't work. I'm wondering if it's not compatible. But everything I've read it is plug and play. Anyone run into this? That's two gauge clusters that I've tried and both voltage gauges didnt work. I will try switching the voltage gauge in my old cluster that i know works into ths cluster and report back later.
Gauge clusters are year specific. I dont know off hand which years, but, do a search here, and you can find out. Also, on my 94 when I did the tach swap, I put my original speedometer in the new cluster, to keep my original miles.
So it looks like the voltage gauge actually works, kinda. I noticed on my way to work the needle moved into "normal" area but was just in the beginning part of normal so 9 or 10. I have noticed the other gauges are not right in the middle of "normal" like my original cluster. Every gauge on my old cluster was smack dab in the middle of normal while running. The new cluster is a little higher or lower than in the middle, but "normal" range is "normal" range. I will try switching out the PSOM and see what happens?
Everything else seems to work correctly. The ABS light is always on but I'll just remove the bulb. Don't think I have ABS.
Yeah I did the speedo swap to keep the original mileage.
The ABS light is always on but I'll just remove the bulb. Don't think I have ABS.
Your truck has rear wheel ABS (RABS). When there is an issue with the RABS system the yellow ABS lamp is illuminated. Any idea what model year cluster they sent you? There are various model years that are interchangeable aka Plug-n-Play. Others require moving wires on the cluster connectors. If the old cluster did not display a yellow ABS lamp then you may have a a wiring issue may need to be corrected.
Not sure exact year of the cluster but the guy I bought it from said he would send me a cluster from a 96 or 97. He asked "what did my ABS light look like" which it is the ABS light with the "brackets" on either side. That's how he determined it was 96/97. I guess older than that had a ABS with no brackets just ABS circled. Not sure if there is a serial # on it that will tell me what year it is.
Thanks for the input it looks like the original cluster was 94-97 base and I got the 94-97 Optional. I don't know what that really means. I love forums because they help so much and I really hate forums because they don't help at all. I guess I'll leave it for now and keep researching.
