Blocks are common in oem suspension setup aswell as aftermarket. But multiple stacked blocks has the potential to be dangerous and exspensive.

Barnes 4wd, ruff stuff specialties offer leaf spring perches to replace your bent ones. This will kill a few bird's

Piniin angle, axle wrap(perch base is longer), pure beef.

Youll neec to get a couple inches of lift. I recommend 4" sinlge lift block max. But ideal is springs anchored directly to new base.

Id do a shackle reversal with 6" long shackles then take some measurements for lift springs to get rid of blocks.

I wouldn't mess with traction or antiwrap bars untilk you have a solid platform to work with at that point that stuff may not be wanted

If you go this route make sure you order the correwidth perch. This is just the first link on page.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=R1328-03

 

It drives me bat**** crazy that this site censors. Not worth my time

 

 

Now would be the time to “adjust “ the differential angle if your welding on new perches. I did this on my first Hi Boy because I had the springs re-arched 3” over stock

 

Lol, I can't believe that axle hasn't fallen out yet... You need to repair that perch, either buy new ones and weld them on, or you could cut those down and weld a thick piece of plate steel on the top, just make sure both perches are at the same angle and you're pinion angle is correct. You can get a single fabricated lift block to replace that stack which would be better, but a full spring, or even partial lift spring with the stock block, would be even better. And you really need traction bars if you're gonna run a tall bock, you have to have some way to counteract all the axle housing torque or it's just gonna keep stretching the u bolts. You might want to look into 5/8 or 3/4" u bolts also so you can torque them down a little more, but don't go crushing you're axle tubes.

 

thanks i will check all that

 

Looking closer at your pics I see the grouping of wheel balancing weights. This shows me the actual wheels have been damaged too. It's going to be hard to keep tires on the rear axle until you get this sorted to include replacing the rear wheels. We strive for more torque but it can be dangerous when it's turned loose on our own rig.

 

What if:
i weld the perch to the 2 blocks over it (blocs welded also but not the stock one). And i buy some good 5/8" u bolts well torqued. ??

 

Bad idea. Welding the blocks to spring perch could make things a lot worse and a lot of more damage.

 

Just in case it isn't obvious, that thing needs to be parked until it's fixed. If that axle spits out when you're driving, most likely as you take off from a stop, it's gonna damage a bunch of stuff under the truck and probably destroy your bed. If you're really unlucky it punctures the fuel tank and catches fire from the sparks of the frame/body grinding along the ground. Hopefully the loose axle doesn't damage somebody else's vehicle or injure someone. Could go from a few hundred dollars to make right to thousands, or tens of thousands dollars and lawsuits, with a totaled truck.

Don't weld blocks to the axle, you're just fixing one crappy modification with another one. You can either fix it half assed now and deal with the other half *** later or fix it right once and have it last. Your choice.

For starters, you need to properly fix, or just replace, the damaged spring perches and you need new u bolts, that's not debatable. Where things have been moving around, I'd also get 2 leaf spring center bolts and replace those while it's apart. Also look at the top u bolt plate for damage from the nuts if the bolts were rocking that much. None of that stuff is really expensive, maybe $100 for everything and that's for HD aftermarket stuff. Barnes 4x4 is a good source.

What I'd do if it were my truck, assuming you don't tow or haul heavy often, would be a rear shackle flip using the existing shackle hanger. It would add about 3-4" of lift so you could remove 2 of the blocks. Using the factory block would be best, but I'd use whichever one would get the stance I want. A shackle flip will also soften the ride up a little bit. Only gonna cost you the money for some nuts/bolts/washers, maybe a couple drill bits, new ubolts and some axle shims to correct the pinion angle. If you tow you can add some helper airbags. If you have money, there are HD aftermarket flip brackets available.

What does the front suspension on this thing look like? i think i can see a mini leaf pack up front? what's the steering look like?