Long time listener, first time caller. Several months ago, I noticed what I thought was fuel in my coolant. Fast foward one 3000 mile family vacation,and now there is a sludge build up in the top of my degas bottle. Got the injectors out and pressurized the cooling system at 17 pounds for a hour. Never saw a leak like the u tube videos. Is this possible, or could there be a leak around the outside of the cup? I do already have the cups, and riff raffs cup tool kit. Also the 620 retaining compound. I was hoping to find the smoking gun, I would be more confident if I had. I have not removed the cups yet, not as quick as I used to be. Am I headed in the right direction, or could I be missing something?
I have most of the parts on hand to replace hoses, degass bottle,water pump, and oil cooler seals. I did get the dual alternator top hose that does not run thru the belt.

Another question if I could. 4 of the injectors have a brownish color up to the first seal. Were the injectors loose, or did the copper washer fail? Related to the contamination of the coolant? Did I find the smoking gun?

Sonce no good deed goes unpunished, I found the ccv oring spit out, and the doorman uvch have compromised wiring insulation at only 25 months old. The doorman parts were not my idea,but installed at a repair shop in Colorado while we had to find our way home for work and return 3 weeks later to pickup the truck and travel trailer.

 

Sounds like you may just need to re seal the oil cooler if the leak down test passed

 

Got the cups out, no smoking gun here. The riff raff tool was not as easy as expected, the fine threads kept pulling out brass. Was applying 100 ft pds with my 24" torque wrench, I colud feel the thread shaft of the tool flexing. 2 cups popped right out, 1 pulled 3 times



before coming out on the fourth try.

ordered stock reman injectors from Bitterroot today. 4 week lead time.

pics of 25 month old doorman uvch. Again these weren't my choice, motorcraft from riff raff to arrove tomorrow

 

That's discouraging, I was intending to order the same from BDP, but if they cannot deliver in a reasonable time frame I will have to look else where!

 

Good, fast, cheap. Pick any (2).

Considering the other options for reman are not the same quality and ‘new’ are on back order - choose carefully.

 

The staining on lower injectors is not a smoking gun.

 

I had problems with the dorman UVHC as well. I could never get it to fully seal. I replaced with OEM and no problems. Some dorman stuff is okay. Some is not.

 

I would think "Good, Reasonable, Reasonable" - especially if listed "in stock" would be an expectation. YMMV
However, if an outfit cannot deliver as advertised I tend to avoid. Stand and deliver as my generation did. If I failed to produce on my job - I was gone searching for another job!
Sorry, I'm particularly ornery tonight.

 

All the hoses, waterpump, seals, ect. that are getting replaced is motorcraft, except for the degas bottle.
Not in a big rush, I still have to replace all of the above mentioned parts. But archery season starts in less than 2 weeks, firearms season in about 2 months. My travel trailer is the family base camp, a jayco 264bh.
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Thanking my lucky stars I continue to get to choose my customers! I no longer have to work for the ornery, grumpy or those with unreasonable expectations.

Ive done many $1000’s in business with Summit and have been 100% satisfied. Many times, I’ve received parts the next day with standard shipping (there is a Summit 2.5hrs away). The clutch kits are technically heavier than one person should lift - but often get handled by one person... My MOM had to help the UPS lady get the last clutch I got delivered off the truck. Luckily, they just had to slide it onto the golf cart.

As far as injectors go, I’ll take quality over fast delivery every time. I’ve had problems with all the ‘previously popular’ rebuilders because they caved in to high demand and starting putting out junk. There is a minimum amount of time required to do this job right and it is what it is. I don’t know if you’ve noticed, but it’s damn near impossible to find good help these days. I see employees with a DGAF attitude literally everyplace I go and see managers on the brink of losing their minds. A choice to lose business quantity to maintain the level of quality you demand is respectable in today’s climate. Like I said above - choose carefully.

 

Was installing one cup at a time. Reason was I would blow compressed air it one hole, and stuff would blow into another hole. Like what appears to be blue silicon. Which was kind of surprising, with all of the orange silicon around the water pump.
I was on the fence about a coolant filter, but just got pushed off.

 

As far as the Riffraff tool is concerned, I have yet to find a better tool - after using many others countless times. The main thing to remember is to NOT OVERTIGHTEN the removal "tap". 100 ft. lbs. is too tight - RIDICULOUSLY tight - and likely the reason you have been pulling the threads out. You're swelling the cup in the bore with the tool.

Get the tool started in the cup and go 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight. Any more than that and you'll likely have problems. Too much is not a good thing in this case.

 

Interested to hear from users of Rosewood injector cup tool. I need to do the cups on my F350, will be doing in the next week or so if tools get here by then. Not interested in a rental tool that has been abused by clowns!

 

It doesn’t work as well. Hammering the cup in is less than graceful and lacks the confidence the Riffraff tool provides for solid installation. Those of us that did this before the RDP tool all appreciate the innovation it provided.

Do you have some reason to think the rental tool has been abused? I’ve never heard a complaint and I’ve used the rented tool several times.

 

Don't worry, this clown bought his own tool. I swear the riff raff directions said 1 to 2 full turns. I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. Hey honey, when did we get a shed?