When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was going through my truck today still trying to figure out my dash electrical issues, all the work i did was under the hood today. I hooked my batteries back up and turned the key on and immediately got a chattering sound like a relay powering up and shutting off super fast over and over. It sounded like it was coming from the center of the dash, or under the center, not the main fuse/relay box. The truck would not start when cranking and its done this before but stopped after several attempts to start. Anyone have a clue what to look at so i can get my truck back on the road before Wednesday? Ive already checked out the GEM and until i have time to fully take it apart everything was clean. I tried hitting the dash like ive read in several spots and it did nothing
Can you measure fuel pressure? Is your fuel pump running at key on, even with the chatter?
Try and get your hands on the intermediate panel where that fuel pump relay is located and see if you feel it chattering. You can get at it through the radio or ashtray.
As always, I recommend using FORScan to check codes and capture a log of the cranking session to see if we see any issues there.
Fuel pump is running. A long list of codes is what prompted me to start messing with the truck a while back, that and voltage disappearing somewhere from the battery to where it needed to go. Ive got another thread on here that shows a screen shot of all my codes listed, atleast at that time. The big one, atleast to me, is the battery voltage too low. Brand new tested good batteries and alternator, good connections on each end of the new cables. I now have half my dash pulled apart trying to track down any more grounds or possible rub spots. I was able etc get the truck to run, till it shut itself off.
I did catch my fuel pressure gauge showing lower than it’s supposed to while chattering. My dash was also going crazy for a while, like half the needles sweeping so far then going back to zero multiple times. When i looked at teh forscan readings ive still got a ton of GEM codes so i guess i dont have a choice but to pull my gem some weekend and clean every bit of it
I may have missed it but when was the last time you have the batteries on charge? What is the condition of the batteries? That alone can cause a great deal of issues.
Have you checked the grounds on the front of the engine and frame grounds?
Batteries and alternator were brand new in July I believe and tested before installed. The ground from the passenger batter to the engine block is good but I think I forgot to install a new from the block to the frame there, I’ve got one from the starter to the frame and of course the drivers side battery to the frame. I checked with a multi meter at the batteries running and had 13.8 volts, had 14.1 I believe at the stud on the back of the alternator but for scan showed a fluctuating voltage always less than 12.5.
I drove the truck out to eat and before I left the house the Speedo was bouncing in park, no issues during the drive and as soon as I got to where I was going and put it in park it started bouncing again.
Fuel pump is running. A long list of codes is what prompted me to start messing with the truck a while back, that and voltage disappearing somewhere from the battery to where it needed to go. Ive got another thread on here that shows a screen shot of all my codes listed, atleast at that time. The big one, atleast to me, is the battery voltage too low. Brand new tested good batteries and alternator, good connections on each end of the new cables. I now have half my dash pulled apart trying to track down any more grounds or possible rub spots. I was able etc get the truck to run, till it shut itself off.
so i just went through an issue, the truck would shut itself down after a minute of running, turned out the pcm harness was not seated correctly, I could move the harness around and here things would come alive and then die, may not be relevant in your case, but worth checking out
I would isolate and check voltage on both batteries, and resistance between all points of the charge system. I agree with Jimmy. Low voltage can cause lots of weird things, including what you've described.
Batteries are all good as is the resistance everywhere that they’re related. After messing with it yesterday I got atleast half of the codes to go away, atleast for now. I found pin outs of the GEM module connectors so I plan on checking that later today. Other than the low battery voltage code, what’s left that I don’t know what’s caused them seems to be transmission/ transfer case stuff, the codes that cleared yesterday were for interior stuff.
Double checked the batteries and grounds, all are good and even added 2 grounds to replace some that weren’t there. All the codes from the GEM came back unfortunately even after i pulled it/ the fuse block apart and cleaned all the internals. Included pictures of the forscan screen with the GEM codes. Kinda at a loss after all ive done so far since I haven’t found a bad ground, chaffed wired or anything broke. So long as it doesnt cause issues with the truck running ill be fine but I’d rather not have all those codes sitting there.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.