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Towing Upgrades

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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 05:57 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BigRiig
I am worried about turbo lag with an intercooler but I guess that is the trade off?
Turbo lag is like the Boogey Man: people fear it for no good reason.

Even if an intercooler does add a touch more delay from when the throttle depresses to when the turbo gets in its sweet spot, so what? It is not like we are talking about split-second life-and-death situations Besides, if the PCM wants to command a gear which keeps the turbo below its threshold, just override and manually downshift.

Agree with Hit Man that torque converter lock-up behavior is something to review as it can generate a lot of heat. If not already part of the data scan, adding trans fluid temp to the display will help with power management. Perhaps Mark K will chime-in and give us a nice lesson on whether it is a good idea to minimize TCC slippage in this transmission and in what gears.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 10:43 AM
  #17  
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$1450 for 160/30 or $1600 for 175/30 hybrids.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 11:10 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Does the E4OD lockup in second gear with stock programming? I know it is hard on the input shaft, but a 300M shaft is super cheap for them.

If not, I wonder if your EOT snd trans temps were very high due to converter slippage. The stock cooler is quite pathetic on these and all that heat from the trans is being dumped into the coolant along with the oil cooler.

Most guys seem to run a 6.0 PSD cooler and I think some do 1/2" lines also from a 4R100. Hopefully they can chime in for more data on that for you. That probably will not help EGTs but if fluid temps drop that would be nice.

I have only done valve body upgrades on a 4R100 so I am not too much help with what all is needed on this platform. But I do know a low stall makes a world of difference from my 6.4 days.
I manually shift it to 2nd. It has the power in 3rd but the EGTs get too high. I have to keep higher RPMs to stay in the power band and keep the EGTs down. I do have a trans temp gauge and it only ticks up 2 or 3 degrees. Previous owner put an additional cooler on it and it NEVER gets over 180 degrees.

Originally Posted by JayTheCPA
Turbo lag is like the Boogey Man: people fear it for no good reason.

Even if an intercooler does add a touch more delay from when the throttle depresses to when the turbo gets in its sweet spot, so what? It is not like we are talking about split-second life-and-death situations Besides, if the PCM wants to command a gear which keeps the turbo below its threshold, just override and manually downshift.

Agree with Hit Man that torque converter lock-up behavior is something to review as it can generate a lot of heat. If not already part of the data scan, adding trans fluid temp to the display will help with power management. Perhaps Mark K will chime-in and give us a nice lesson on whether it is a good idea to minimize TCC slippage in this transmission and in what gears.
Good to know about the intercooler. All I have seen is guys who have added one and then complained about the lag. It's hard to get good info since a lot of the people build these trucks for speed and not for towing.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 11:14 AM
  #19  
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If you added an intercooler to an OBS you'd want to swap the housing for a small one.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 12:43 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BigRiig
All I have seen is guys who have added one and then complained about the lag. It's hard to get good info since a lot of the people build these trucks for speed and not for towing.
Muh Huh... Somebody changes just *one* component of a system, does nothing toward balancing the system to accommodate for this change, and blames that component for unexpected results. Shocker! The Internet is full of stories of what *not* to do from people whom think they know what they are doing

The smarter individuals will look at the whole system and realize that there are tentacles when adding just one 'little' thing.

So, don't follow the path of people looking to make their truck into something other than a truck. Drive the truck like a truck, build the truck like a truck, and it will perform just like a truck
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 03:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bitterroot Diesel
If you added an intercooler to an OBS you'd want to swap the housing for a small one.
Guessing you mean a smaller turbo housing? Any recommendations?

Originally Posted by JayTheCPA
Muh Huh... Somebody changes just *one* component of a system, does nothing toward balancing the system to accommodate for this change, and blames that component for unexpected results. Shocker! The Internet is full of stories of what *not* to do from people whom think they know what they are doing

The smarter individuals will look at the whole system and realize that there are tentacles when adding just one 'little' thing.

So, don't follow the path of people looking to make their truck into something other than a truck. Drive the truck like a truck, build the truck like a truck, and it will perform just like a truck
Amen to that! I do wish there was better content out there but most of the people just slap on a couple parts and think it should cure all their problems. I totally get the multi-facet approach but want to make sure I'm getting the most information possible before dropping any more money into the truck. The last thing I want is to drop a couple thousand $$$ just to get a 10hp increase and still be stuck in the slow lane.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 03:19 PM
  #22  
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The superduty with an intercooler uses a .84 housing.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 03:34 PM
  #23  
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Great thread. Paying close attention. Good luck @BigRiig .
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 04:07 PM
  #24  
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I have the 1.0 on a TP38 (stock snail). Still on stock turbine wheel as the KC was not available when I rebuilt mine. I do have a billet compressor wheel from SP Turbooost which works fine.

Down in Texas near sea level, my boost threshold is 1300-1400rpm. So it works quite nice.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 08:27 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Bitterroot Diesel
The superduty with an intercooler uses a .84 housing.
So this is a good starting point? https://kcturbos.com/products/obs-su...gn=sag_organic

Also does anyone know if a Wicked Wheel is worth the $$? Seems like it since it's balanced aluminum.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 08:47 PM
  #26  
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Yes, a billet wheel is a good upgrade for a stock turbo.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 12:10 PM
  #27  
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Ok a quick update: used the truck to drive the kiddos to school this morning. On my way home, I noticed the 99% of the time my boost was at 0psi. Thinking I may have a boost leak, I stomped on it and go the boost up to 20psi (highest I have ever seen it). Does this seem normal? I could only get about 13psi pulling my 13k sled and only about 1-2 towing on flat ground but 20psi winding it out? Just want to make sure I am not missing anything.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 03:37 PM
  #28  
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That sounds about right to me. You will see very little boost unless the engine is working.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 05:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by farmert
That sounds about right to me. You will see very little boost unless the engine is working.
agreed. Gotta have some rpm to make boost in these
 
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 07:35 PM
  #30  
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Ben (97-PSD) gave you a great list of proven mods.

Just by adding the 160/0 injectors you will notice a increase in power before even installing a custom tune on there.

One thing I didn't see you mention is what gears and what size of tire you running?

 
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