e350 transmission pan bolts pulled threads out
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e350 transmission pan bolts pulled threads out
Threads on bolt
Unscrewing the threads
Threads unscrewed
I went to torque the nuts that hold the transmission fluid pan on my e350, I got up to around 20-50 foot pounds (my repair manual says 108-132) and the bolt just started free spinning. Three of the bolts are like this and I'm too scared to torque the other 17. What do I do? This is my only vehicle and if I can't get the pan back on, I can't go anywhere. I'm not even home atm. wtf do I do? Why are my bolts pulling the threads out?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2014
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first to get good help you need to tell us what year, engine, transmission, ect.. Some people here will know exactly what your transmission looks like and what you can to do
I think you might have miss read that 132 foot lbs.. It should be more like inch lbs..
without seeing the actual transmission or knowing which transmission you have it is hard to give you a solution.. It there is enough material around the bolt holes in the transmission housing then you might be able to re-thread the bolt hole to the next size larger diameter bolt. i do not know if the bolts are metric or standard but on occasion when i striped out a bolt hole, I went to the very next size larger bolt. It the bolt threads are standard then you might be able to find a metric bolt just a little larger or the same if the existing bolts are metric then the next size standard bolt might work.
You will need a tapered tap tool and a bottoming tap tool or the correct size for the bolt you choose.
I think you might have miss read that 132 foot lbs.. It should be more like inch lbs..
without seeing the actual transmission or knowing which transmission you have it is hard to give you a solution.. It there is enough material around the bolt holes in the transmission housing then you might be able to re-thread the bolt hole to the next size larger diameter bolt. i do not know if the bolts are metric or standard but on occasion when i striped out a bolt hole, I went to the very next size larger bolt. It the bolt threads are standard then you might be able to find a metric bolt just a little larger or the same if the existing bolts are metric then the next size standard bolt might work.
You will need a tapered tap tool and a bottoming tap tool or the correct size for the bolt you choose.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I'd look into using a Heli-Coil or carefully drilling and tapping the damaged threads to another size. You'd have to determine the approximate (but as close as can be measured) holes in order to use the best fitting larger bolt size.
I would check the transmission pan and gasket holes, don't wanna go too large there. Regardless the type transmission I'd use RTV on both sides of the gasket now to achieve the best sealing.
AND as Annaliegh recommends when it comes to torque values double and triple check you've using the correct values.
I would check the transmission pan and gasket holes, don't wanna go too large there. Regardless the type transmission I'd use RTV on both sides of the gasket now to achieve the best sealing.
AND as Annaliegh recommends when it comes to torque values double and triple check you've using the correct values.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2021
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From: Chesterfield, VA
I hate steel bolt screwed into aluminum. Seen too many stripped out like yours OP.
My youngest son had a couple strip out like that on his 03 F350 (4 speed auto) the first time he drained/changed filters/gaskets. Man, was he mad about that.
It was easy to fix. The transmission lip, where the pan attaches is pretty thick. We grabbed some studs (don't remember the exact size/tpi now) and they screwed right into the holes as there are threads above where the missing threads used to be. The right sized nuts and washers (same sized nut as the bolts so the same socket worked for the whole job of removing the pan for the next filter/fluid/gasket change) and it was good to go.
To be honest, the studs were left overs from an old Pontiac Sunbird turbo charger/manifold removal years ago. I don't throw away nuts/bolts and those studs off that 4 cyl. Pontiac engine where the exact right thread/length for the F350 4 speed auto filter pan bolts.
My youngest son had a couple strip out like that on his 03 F350 (4 speed auto) the first time he drained/changed filters/gaskets. Man, was he mad about that.
It was easy to fix. The transmission lip, where the pan attaches is pretty thick. We grabbed some studs (don't remember the exact size/tpi now) and they screwed right into the holes as there are threads above where the missing threads used to be. The right sized nuts and washers (same sized nut as the bolts so the same socket worked for the whole job of removing the pan for the next filter/fluid/gasket change) and it was good to go.
To be honest, the studs were left overs from an old Pontiac Sunbird turbo charger/manifold removal years ago. I don't throw away nuts/bolts and those studs off that 4 cyl. Pontiac engine where the exact right thread/length for the F350 4 speed auto filter pan bolts.
Lead Driver
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From: Maryville
I was about to say you can't go that high on those small bolts, surprised it didn't break.
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Yeah, I was still in panic mode when I posted this thread. I did indeed figure ft lbs when it said in lbs. Friggen thing had no flags or anything that they were switching to a different measurement. They should really highlight those cells or something. I picked up some helicoil and I'm going that route. For anyone who is still interested, it's a 2003 e350 and I'm fairly certain it's a 4r100 tranny. Only ones it /could/ be due to twenty bolts are the e40d or the 4r100.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Eastern TN
With some transmissions, overtightening bolts can deform the stamped pan flange to the point ATF leaks. You might drop the pan and check the flange with a straight edge.
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 175K miles
Sixto
07 E350 5.4 175K miles
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Well, I got it back up and holding fluid. I'm probably going to replace this van with a newer one since it's got 265k+ miles on it, so I was contemplating getting a replacement anyway. I'm not going to bother trying to pull it back down again.
Lead Driver
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From: Maryville
If the body is in good shape, since Ford stopped the Econoline, I'd keep it, I would love to body swap a new Econoline cut away, since thats all they make, a cool extended dually with the new drive train would be cool.
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Yeah but there's issues with the title and I'm scared the tranny is starting to act up. Do they really not make the e-series anymore? Those are literally my favorite vehicles.
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Maybe I'll get some sheet metal together and do some research and weld up my own body for a cutaway. Definitely will have to do a LOT of research to make sure I can do it safely and that I'm legally allowed to, but definitely something worth thinking about. Would be real cool to custom make my own rv from the frame up. Don't see any problem if I did a 14ga box with a rigid square stock frame from a structural standpoint. Would probably have to get a beefier welder to anchor it to the frame though.
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