When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looks like my rear yoke is needing attention, how hard is this to rebuild?? I will be draining it tonight , hope i don't find a lot of metal in the fluid!
Make sure your breather tube is not plugged. That's usually the first seal to leak if there is no place for the pressure to escape the axle housing.
I will check that anybody have a recommendation for the proper fluid to put in there if it’s leak and I’m sure it’s low until I can get to it I’m gonna have to keep it filled out
Yes jack up entire rear end both rear wheels. If they turn opposite easily it's an open differential if they do not turn opposite easily it's likely a limited-slip.
As WIlliamg4x4 mentioned, check the vent hose and vent port. You can remove the vent pot and clean/clear it if it is blocked. I put metal window screen around the end of my hoses tied on with zip ties. I also installed new, fresh and fiber reinforced hoses on the front and rear different vents. See the screen and hoses in the image below pointed out by blue arrows.
As for the differential, the additive you "might" need is Motorcraft XL-3. Although, some synthetic fluids have additive in them.
As for finding out your differential type other than the method above, you can check the door sticker or see if there is a tag on one of the differential bolts.
If you are doing the rebuild or reseal yourself, there are documents in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder pertaining to a rebuild of the differential. Many of us have the Ford Service Manual on tap as well in case you just wanted to replace the seal, if you need to after the vent hose is checked. I replaced my seal about 6 years ago as it was leaking slightly.
Let us know how you would like to proceed sir and we will get you the documentation, advice or links you need to be successful.
As WIlliamg4x4 mentioned, check the vent hose and vent port. You can remove the vent pot and clean/clear it if it is blocked. I put metal window screen around the end of my hoses tied on with zip ties. I also installed new, fresh and fiber reinforced hoses on the front and rear different vents. See the screen and hoses in the image below pointed out by blue arrows.
As for the differential, the additive you "might" need is Motorcraft XL-3. Although, some synthetic fluids have additive in them.
As for finding out your differential type other than the method above, you can check the door sticker or see if there is a tag on one of the differential bolts.
If you are doing the rebuild or reseal yourself, there are documents in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder pertaining to a rebuild of the differential. Many of us have the Ford Service Manual on tap as well in case you just wanted to replace the seal, if you need to after the vent hose is checked. I replaced my seal about 6 years ago as it was leaking slightly.
Let us know how you would like to proceed sir and we will get you the documentation, advice or links you need to be successful.
I have already ordered the seal , and 75/140 waiting for me at napa, being as i am not making it home till 8 pm or so have not really had time to look at things , just watching atm
hoping to be able to deal with it over the weekend
Another thing on my radar , i was having a strange sound coming from the drivers front , it was intermittent rumbling, jacked the truck up to check wheel bearings linkage ect, everything is tight as it should be, checked U joints, carrier bearing, all seem good.
Talked to a friend he said he thought maybe my auto hubs might be the culprit, so yesterday it did it again, made the strange noise, Dropped speed to 25 ish, switched to 4x4 high and the sound went away, so am suspecting i have a vacuum leak somewhere, any upgraded lines i should be looking at?
Another thing on my radar , i was having a strange sound coming from the drivers front , it was intermittent rumbling, jacked the truck up to check wheel bearings linkage ect, everything is tight as it should be, checked U joints, carrier bearing, all seem good.
Talked to a friend he said he thought maybe my auto hubs might be the culprit, so yesterday it did it again, made the strange noise, Dropped speed to 25 ish, switched to 4x4 high and the sound went away, so am suspecting i have a vacuum leak somewhere, any upgraded lines i should be looking at?
I believe PMF offers steel braided vacuum lines to replace the OEM rubber lines. I bought some new rubber vacuum hoses and put some black wire loom around them that I had in the garage left over from a wiring project. They have been this way for many, many years and still look great. I recently inspected them when I rebuilt the front end brakes.
Sometimes when looking at the cost vs. benefit for "upgrades", you have to make a decision that best suits your needs.
As per usual things are getting worse very fast, vent tube is clear so I guess the seal is just giving up, sure hope they have given me the right parts !
Another thing on my radar , i was having a strange sound coming from the drivers front , it was intermittent rumbling, jacked the truck up to check wheel bearings linkage ect, everything is tight as it should be, checked U joints, carrier bearing, all seem good.
Talked to a friend he said he thought maybe my auto hubs might be the culprit, so yesterday it did it again, made the strange noise, Dropped speed to 25 ish, switched to 4x4 high and the sound went away, so am suspecting i have a vacuum leak somewhere, any upgraded lines i should be looking at?
If 4x4 engages when you select it , you don't have a vacuum leak. The hub wouldn't lock if there was a leak. The noise going away says the hub locked. What would happen is the vacuum pump would run a hell of a lot more and the hub wouldn't lock , so therefore the noise would be the same.
Look the lines are 20 plus years old anyway so changing them out for new vac line wouldn't be a bad thing but It sounds bearing related to me.
Jack up the front wheel , spin it and check play up and down. Then lock the hub manually, see if the noise is there. Same deal , spin and check for play.
When my needle bearing went, I heard it a couple of times one day then it disappeared. Then it come back.
When the hubs disengaged it spins round the stub axle, riding on the small needle bearing. This is the one that usually fails. If it does , check the shaft for score marks or it being undersized. Pic below for reference. I ordered a complete stub assembly with bearing ready to go for my upcoming front end rebuild.
If 4x4 engages when you select it , you don't have a vacuum leak. The hub wouldn't lock if there was a leak. The noise going away says the hub locked. What would happen is the vacuum pump would run a hell of a lot more and the hub wouldn't lock , so therefore the noise would be the same.
Look the lines are 20 plus years old anyway so changing them out for new vac line wouldn't be a bad thing but It sounds bearing related to me.
Jack up the front wheel , spin it and check play up and down. Then lock the hub manually, see if the noise is there. Same deal , spin and check for play.
When my needle bearing went, I heard it a couple of times one day then it disappeared. Then it come back.
When the hubs disengaged it spins round the stub axle, riding on the small needle bearing. This is the one that usually fails. If it does , check the shaft for score marks or it being undersized. Pic below for reference. I ordered a complete stub assembly with bearing ready to go for my upcoming front end rebuild.
