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Thank you for clarifying that redrode.
Another question. Do you have a pcv valve in the passenger side valve cover and how sharp is the bend in the hose going to the air cleaner?
I connected the PCV valve on top of the oil filler cap on the driver side and routed it to a vacuum port under the carb in the front. The passenger side is connected to the air filter. I bought a new elbow bend and cleaned out the old connector in the valve cover. Some reason that one is hard to find.
My choke is electric which is hooked up but the choke heater tube was not there.
If you have an electric choke hooked up there is no reason for the heater tube just put a brass cap over the inlet. Take a picture of the area on the intake where the old choke heat source on the intake was so we can inspect it for possible vacuum leak.
If you have an electric choke hooked up there is no reason for the heater tube just put a brass cap over the inlet. Take a picture of the area on the intake where the old choke heat source on the intake was so we can inspect it for possible vacuum leak.
From what I have read I think that the heat chimney is a closed system. Fresh air from the Carb goes to the bottom port and the top port goes to the choke. This is the underneath side I think this comes off and there is a filter thing in there
That shouldn't be any problem for you. Sorry I was thinking of the kind that directly mounted in the intake manifold . This must have been a change in the 77' year.
That looks like a thermostatic assist choke cap hooked to the stator wire which would be correct except it still needs the manifold heat stove. Replacement tubes and the stainless insert in the manifold are available from mustang restoration places. But it's a bear to replace, on mine required manifold removal, sand blaster and a torch along with a drill. JMO but your distributor should be hooked to the blue cap location, I think it's hooked to a timed spark port opening now. A Genuine Ford shop manual should have all the details. Look on ebay for paper ones, in your hand, won't evaporate during the next cloud crash or PC melt down.
As far as my narrow understanding of emissions, the red cap on the top should be hooked to carbon cannister and timed spark valve to purge fuel tank vapors during low load high vacuum throttle to get rid of the fumes from the gas in the tank that accumulated in the charcoal cannister.
That looks like a thermostatic assist choke cap hooked to the stator wire which would be correct except it still needs the manifold heat stove. Replacement tubes and the stainless insert in the manifold are available from mustang restoration places. But it's a bear to replace, on mine required manifold removal, sand blaster and a torch along with a drill. JMO but your distributor should be hooked to the blue cap location, I think it's hooked to a timed spark port opening now. A Genuine Ford shop manual should have all the details. Look on ebay for paper ones, in your hand, won't evaporate during the next cloud crash or PC melt down.
I did hook up the heat tube to the choke but I just used copper tubing wound close to the engine block. I started looking for replacement tubes and bought one of those after-market kits but after really inspecting it I realized how difficult it was going to be.
One of my issues was when I went to plug the distributor into the full vacuum blue cap I noticed fuel slowly leaking out when I removed the cap. The other issue was when checking the timing I didn't see much if any mechanical advance. So currently I am shopping for a new distributor. Any recommendations I don't want to buy duralast but I also don't want to spend $400 on MSD? Also do yall know if hardened steel is ok for the distributor gear? I called Pertronix and that was what they recommended for ford small block. There only other option is brass.
As far as my narrow understanding of emissions, the red cap on the top should be hooked to carbon cannister and timed spark valve to purge fuel tank vapors during low load high vacuum throttle to get rid of the fumes from the gas in the tank that accumulated in the charcoal cannister.
Thanks 5851a that's a great explanation. I definitely don't have the charcoal canister anymore. What's your take on capping off the external vent and just using the internal vents? One of my issues is hard hot starts and some people say venting it helps.
Here is a great sticky written by member "FMC" he explains the top hat vacuum connection in detail. If it were me given the dificulty in rebuilding the old heat stove pipe electric assist choke system I would consider going to an all electric choke conversion or a manual choke.I would also try and run the PVC from a rear location so you can run a heat shield gasket Holley 108-52 under the front bowl. This will eliminate the bowl gas bowling that is causing your leak at the blue capped vacuum vent.
Here is a great sticky written by member "FMC" he explains the top hat vacuum connection in detail. If it were me given the dificulty in rebuilding the old heat stove pipe electric assist choke system I would consider going to an all electric choke conversion or a manual choke.I would also try and run the PVC from a rear location so you can run a heat shield gasket Holley 108-52 under the front bowl. This will eliminate the bowl gas bowling that is causing your leak at the blue capped vacuum vent.
Thanks again Redroad. I was looking into buying it and it got me thinking. Do I need to remove the EGR mounting plate with this gasket?
Thanks again Redroad. I was looking into buying it and it got me thinking. Do I need to remove the EGR mounting plate with this gasket?
No it's not necessary but if you do I would replace it with a non-metallic spacer of approximately the same thickness thickness and block off the hole in the intake. Use a thin gasket at the bottom of the spacer. If you are currently getting your PVC connection from the EGR plate of course another connection will have to be established else where. The stud length will have to be considered and adjusted for the total stack height. All that being said IMO a functioning EGR is not a bad thing..
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That shouldn't be any problem for you. Sorry I was thinking of the kind that directly mounted in the intake manifold . This must have been a change in the 77' year.
