Counter Top Update
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From: Lenexa, KS
Counter Top Update
I want to replace the Formica counter top at my mom's place. She currently has Formica and it is in great shape, she just wants a new color. I have worked with laminates before and I'm thinking about pulling the sink out and gluing the new layer down over the old layer. I would trim the edges and band the leading edges with a nice wood strip stained to match her cabinets. I'm thinking that contact cement is the way to go. I just don't want to have to pull the old counter out because that usually damages the tile back splash. Does anybody have any thoughts or suggestions???
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Jeff, I have done this before. It sounds like you have it figured out. The only thing I would like to add would be a reminder:
"Cleanliness is next to Godlyness."
In other words; the long term sucess of your project will be directly proportional to how clean - and smooth - the old counter top is when you glue the new one on top of it.
. . . but I'm betting you already figured this out.
FWIW
"Cleanliness is next to Godlyness."
In other words; the long term sucess of your project will be directly proportional to how clean - and smooth - the old counter top is when you glue the new one on top of it.
. . . but I'm betting you already figured this out.
FWIW
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From: Lenexa, KS
Originally posted by ctfuzzy
Jeff, I have done this before. It sounds like you have it figured out. The only thing I would like to add would be a reminder:
"Cleanliness is next to Godlyness."
In other words; the long term sucess of your project will be directly proportional to how clean - and smooth - the old counter top is when you glue the new one on top of it.
. . . but I'm betting you already figured this out.
FWIW
Jeff, I have done this before. It sounds like you have it figured out. The only thing I would like to add would be a reminder:
"Cleanliness is next to Godlyness."
In other words; the long term sucess of your project will be directly proportional to how clean - and smooth - the old counter top is when you glue the new one on top of it.
. . . but I'm betting you already figured this out.
FWIW
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
I think the 220 'roughing up' is the ticket. Just don't forget a final cleaning to get ~all~ that dust off.
You know, I guess it's true what they say about great minds, a router and a straight edge is *exactly* what I used and it worked flawlessly. . . I didn't have the fancy special cutters and edgers and sure as heck didn't want to buy them just for this one job - so I got lucky I guess.
HTH.
You know, I guess it's true what they say about great minds, a router and a straight edge is *exactly* what I used and it worked flawlessly. . . I didn't have the fancy special cutters and edgers and sure as heck didn't want to buy them just for this one job - so I got lucky I guess.
HTH.
Originally posted by jskufan
ctfuzzy, I was thinking of "scratching" the surface up with a little 220 grit sandpaper just enough to give the cement a better bite. The only thing to consider is where to place the seams. I can put them anywhere since they are supported structurally underneath. Anyway, what is the best way to pre-cut the laminate if you want the mitred corners to break in certain areas?? A router with a straight edge??? Thanks in advance for your input.
ctfuzzy, I was thinking of "scratching" the surface up with a little 220 grit sandpaper just enough to give the cement a better bite. The only thing to consider is where to place the seams. I can put them anywhere since they are supported structurally underneath. Anyway, what is the best way to pre-cut the laminate if you want the mitred corners to break in certain areas?? A router with a straight edge??? Thanks in advance for your input.
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From: Southern NJ
The only specialty tool I would advise for this job is a hard rubber roller. Once you have the cement on both surfaces and they are cured enough, start at one end and roll all of the bubbles out. Go back and forth over the entire surface for about five minutes. In both directions. This ensures a nice even adherence. The straight bit will work fine for Formica, it's some of the other countertop materials that require a special laminate bit. It's even easier when using wood trim on the sides. Cut the laminate about a 1/16" bigger on the sides sticking out. Then use a flat fine metal file to take them down flush with the sides. Always use a downstroke, starting on the finished side of the laminate. The file can also be used to make the mitered edges and such. Oh yeah, 220 is fine, but I use 150 to mar surfaces for contact cement. What I've found to be a good mating surface roughness.
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From: Southern NJ
Thanks CT, the other two were still slightly too big. I'll get them down from there. I appreciate your help, haven't gotten to my email yet to thank ya. FTE took precedence in my "morning ritual" 
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From: Lenexa, KS
Originally posted by grapegravy
The only specialty tool I would advise for this job is a hard rubber roller. Once you have the cement on both surfaces and they are cured enough, start at one end and roll all of the bubbles out. Go back and forth over the entire surface for about five minutes. In both directions. This ensures a nice even adherence. The straight bit will work fine for Formica, it's some of the other countertop materials that require a special laminate bit. It's even easier when using wood trim on the sides. Cut the laminate about a 1/16" bigger on the sides sticking out. Then use a flat fine metal file to take them down flush with the sides. Always use a downstroke, starting on the finished side of the laminate. The file can also be used to make the mitered edges and such. Oh yeah, 220 is fine, but I use 150 to mar surfaces for contact cement. What I've found to be a good mating surface roughness.
The only specialty tool I would advise for this job is a hard rubber roller. Once you have the cement on both surfaces and they are cured enough, start at one end and roll all of the bubbles out. Go back and forth over the entire surface for about five minutes. In both directions. This ensures a nice even adherence. The straight bit will work fine for Formica, it's some of the other countertop materials that require a special laminate bit. It's even easier when using wood trim on the sides. Cut the laminate about a 1/16" bigger on the sides sticking out. Then use a flat fine metal file to take them down flush with the sides. Always use a downstroke, starting on the finished side of the laminate. The file can also be used to make the mitered edges and such. Oh yeah, 220 is fine, but I use 150 to mar surfaces for contact cement. What I've found to be a good mating surface roughness.
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From: N. Florida - The "No 4x4
Originally posted by jskufan
grapegravy and ctfuzzy, thanks for your help and valuable input. I'm poised and ready for the install. The hardest thing about the project seems to be getting my mom to commit to a color!!
grapegravy and ctfuzzy, thanks for your help and valuable input. I'm poised and ready for the install. The hardest thing about the project seems to be getting my mom to commit to a color!!
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From: michigan
i'm in the cabinet business and if the house is not to old and settled you can or should be able to run a razor blade along caulk line at Bsp and top joint and slip top out sand the old laminate down(so glue adhere's not off just rough it up) get a contqact adhesive lowes or home depot should have apply let dry to touch both new lam and old top lay new lam on old top roller and replace
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